Thread: D'ya use unleaded or premium unleaded?

unleaded it aint no high performance engine.

Premium. Bike caries on like an old mule if I feel it the crap stuff.

There have been several discussions on this at Aborist Site, also about which 2 stroke oil to use, and what ratio to mix it with and whether to add mothballs to your fuel tank. There seems to be almost as many points of view on these topics as there are posts.

From the posts by the people on AS that matter, unless you are into racing chainsaws, the only reason I can see to use a premium on a mill saw is to keep the internals of the carb and engine cleaner that regular. You can also probably get the same effect by running a few litres of quality premium through your machine for every 10 litres of regular. Well, at least that is what I plan to do.

BTW don't use the mothballs idea - I believe it could be terminal to your saw

unleaded

Unleaded, 40:1, no mothballs

more info about the mothballs please

Originally Posted by echnidna

more info about the mothballs please

Mothballs, being naphthalene, burn quite well and can improve the octane rating of petrol. Also, being naphthalene, they leave horrendous carbon residue.

Unleaded.

So do mothballs actually give more power
or do they just let you use a higher compression ratio

Originally Posted by echnidna

So do mothballs actually give more power
or do they just let you use a higher compression ratio

More power, but apparently they gum up your carby and machine something awful!

I use premium unleaded in my Husky 3120 in my CSM, (also use it in everything else).

For 2 stroke oil I use Castrol TTS, (synthetic). I mix it at 25:1. I would gaurantee my engine internals are much cleaner and have far less wear than one running on the cheap stuff.

The dealer I bought my saw from recommended I replace the rings after a certain time, (I think it was 100 hours, my memory is a bit sad these days). So I bought a new set of rings, pulled the engine down, clean as a whistle inside, measured the ring gap in the bore to compare old and new rings, the difference wasnt measurable (using quality feeler gauges). No wear in the bore also. I put the new rings in anyway, because I had them.

My saw has done at least 250 hours now and it still runs as good as it did when new. Will probably have another look inside if I ever put 400 hours on it.

Who knows, it might cost me more in the long run, but give me reliability and longitivity over a couple of dollars anyday.

But each to their own

At 250 hours it would want to be as good as new.

Originally Posted by outback

At 250 hours it would want to be as good as new.

250 hours is a lot of work for a 2 stroke engine going full noise, in hot and dusty conditions

Do you use unleaded or premium unleaded in your car?
Depends what car right? Is it a Lotus or a Holden Kingswood red engine?

Perhaps the question is can Premium Unleaded actually harm the motor?
And the answer is no.
Is it worthwhile to spend the extra money?
If we are talking about clean honest unleaded then perhaps no... yet if you live in Punchbol you probably will not buy unleaded but a concoction of paint thinners and you chances to get clean fuel is higher if you buy Premium then if you buy unleaded. All is relative.

If you run a 1960 Homelite, unleaded will do just fine. If you have a brand new Stihl 660, don't be stingy and buy her the best drink on offer.

Fully synthetic 2 stroke oil is your best choice. no need to go 25 to one with synthetic, 32 to one is plenty. Follow the manufacturers recommendations anyway.

Mothballs, forget it.
If you want a bit more power all you need to do is add 90 cc of pure acetone in every 40 Liters of mix.
Very nice improvement and will never damage anything in your saw.
Works in your car and in your diesel engine too. For diesel add only 60cc per 40L of fuel.

Change ring after 250 hours? Your Husky will go 2500 hours on the original set of rings. 100 hours? your dealer was having you on. That would be less than a month worth of work for a professional.