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  1. #16
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    My interest in this thread is more agnostic to brand but finding a capable saw for first time saw milling. I’m not sure chainsaw milling is worthwhile outlay if the sawyers intention (a hobbyist woodworker) can strive for quartersawn boards in order to get the most out of a log instead of just slabs and biscuits for firewood. Guess it comes down to rotating the log and chocking into position but I don’t see many doing this

    I went into the Stihl dealership as they advertise the most powerful saw being the 881 but have learnt Husky’s offering is only a few cc shy of this. My neighbour repairs chainsaws and favours husky’s due to their repair ability outside of the dealership compared to Stihls. Their price is a little cheaper than the 881 but not by much.

    Looking at approx a 3k outlay for the saw then $4-600 for something like Alaskan mill, thinking of buying the smaller jig and sourcing my own longer rails to make it 48” approx in length. Then the 42” bar and two ripping chains approx $500.

    If I kept my logs I source small enough I can get by manually handling the wood myself as I have a decent size trailer but any larger than all of this setup and makes more sense to get a small bandsaw mill

    Nathan

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    Yet here you are "sobbing" about a post you don't seem to be able to understand.
    My take on a sob story is someone who whinges to others , not taking their concerns to the instigator. I have spent most of my working life in the timber trade and have heard a lot of sobs in my time. If someone comes to you directly with a problem, perceived or otherwise, it can be addressed. Sobbing doesnt help anyone. The only part of the post I dont understand is the need to sob.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Croc View Post
    Interesting thread. I have Still, Husky, McCulloch and Ryobi electric. I have had an excellent run with the Still, it's now 38 yrs old, but I absolutely hate the local dealer. I buy all my parts online and a privateer does the work for me. When I went to buy a big saw for slabbing that had an influence on my decision, but I bought a Husky 3120 because I couldn't manage the weight of a Still 090. Service for the Husky was good, then the agency changed and they were worse than the Still dealer. Luckily they went broke and original dealer has Husky back again, and all is good. I don't have any brand allegiance, just the ethics of some businesses drives me crazy.
    I could write for an hour about my battles with the Still dealer, no idea how they survive, probably all government work.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.
    How is your Ryobi electric going? Mine threw a fit a few months back and a lot of sparks and smoke came out of the motor (and it didn't smell very nice). It went to the tip and last week I bought a new Ozito to replace it. Haven't tried it in anger yet though, so I don't know how got it is going to be.

  5. #19
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    Nathan
    Where I have the option I will pay someone to mill the logs for me. I have used both local country sawmillers and a fella with bandsaw mill. Last resort is the chainsaw mill.
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  6. #20
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    Where I live I’m finding more and more people setup for milling for small operations than I am so perhaps it’s more cost effective to go to them than larger sawmill businesses.

    Thanks for that Tony

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    How is your Ryobi electric going? Mine threw a fit a few months back and a lot of sparks and smoke came out of the motor (and it didn't smell very nice). It went to the tip and last week I bought a new Ozito to replace it. Haven't tried it in anger yet though, so I don't know how got it is going to be.
    The Ryobi does a job. Sometimes I put big pieces into the big bandsaw (it cuts 550mm thick) and as I do the setup sometimes I get a bit stuck under the top guide, so I use the Ryobi to trim it in place. The electric saves my ears.
    Now, on the subject of brands, I don't like Ryobi. Only because I am an electrician and I find it very hard to source Ryobi parts for repairs.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  8. #22
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    I've had the same experience with Ryobi regarding spares/support - utterly hopeless. This was an extension polesaw, 2-stroke, that needed a small part to keep it going. Ryobi's appointed "spares distributor" never responded to multiple phone calls or emails*, one of their websites referred to Bunnings as a "repair centre" (something Bunnings seem completely unaware of). In the end I had to purchase a dead motor unit from someone on eBay for $40 just to cannibalise the part I needed from it. Clearly their products are designed to be thrown away when they go wrong, and I'll certainly never touch anything Ryobi ever again (quite apart fom the fact that their batteries are crap compared to other brands).

    * 3 months after my enquiry, when I had already repaired the thing myself, I got an email from them asking for the model number......sigh.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    My interest in this thread is more agnostic to brand but finding a capable saw for first time saw milling. I’m not sure chainsaw milling is worthwhile outlay if the sawyers intention (a hobbyist woodworker) can strive for quartersawn boards in order to get the most out of a log instead of just slabs and biscuits for firewood. Guess it comes down to rotating the log and chocking into position but I don’t see many doing this
    Yes real PITA so have only done this precisely once. I found it much easier to mill more log and extract the 2 quarter sawn slabs out of each log . One log generates heaps of timber and the non quarter sawn stuff easily gets used for other projects even if it's only slightly warped garden seats.

    I went into the Stihl dealership as they advertise the most powerful saw being the 881 but have learnt Husky’s offering is only a few cc shy of this. My neighbour repairs chainsaws and favours husky’s due to their repair ability outside of the dealership compared to Stihls. Their price is a little cheaper than the 881 but not by much.
    I had to make that decision about 14 years ago. I had spend several milling sessions with my mates 3120 and it is indeed a mighty saw. What swung it for me was the side versus front chain tension adjustment and the ability to change the main jet on the 880 as I was planning on doing a muffler mod. Not sure of this is possible on the 881. In the end I picked up this package from an organization that wasn't using it for half RRP.
    A never used 880 with a 60" bar
    A 441 with a 25" bar that had been used to cut a couple of trailer loads of firewood
    A Granberg Alaskan Mill
    Two pairs of chainsaw pants, 20L of bar oil, 5L of two stroke lube, a 12V chain sharpener etc
    .
    gear.jpg

    Both saws have run flawlessly for 14 years. Stihl service on the sparingly times I have used it has been excellent.
    I sold the mill and the chainsaw pants for 1/2 RRP as I already had 3 mills (now have 4).

    Looking at approx a 3k outlay for the saw then $4-600 for something like Alaskan mill, thinking of buying the smaller jig and sourcing my own longer rails to make it 48” approx in length. Then the 42” bar and two ripping chains approx $500.

    If I kept my logs I source small enough I can get by manually handling the wood myself as I have a decent size trailer but any larger than all of this setup and makes more sense to get a small bandsaw mill
    Have you checked out Milling & Saw Mills | Arborist, Chainsaw & Tree Work Forum

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    . Clearly their products are designed to be thrown away when they go wrong, and I'll certainly never touch anything Ryobi ever again (quite apart fom the fact that their batteries are crap compared to other brands).
    Welcome to modern retail! Profit vs environmentally responsible life cycle management.

    Everything is designed to be "consumed"; to offer minimal or "reasonably acceptable" service life, and with (almost nil??) "after sales service" to keep the likes of the ACCC at bay, then be replaced.

    Batteries! Argh! another point of discontent - why are tool manufacturers promoting battery tools over corded, one may ask?
    Simple - it's another method of forcing "consumers" to consume!

    Change the design of a model / range / battery pack then offer no replacement battery parts or support for the older design/s.

    Without going into "sob stories" I think we all have several tales of pi$$ poor customer service, warranty support, and abysmal after sales / service / parts support which are not limited to any one particular brand. Well perhaps not true in some respects with the overpriced (imho) "elite" brands.

    If one goes into any tool repair business around Oz one would find bins of particular brands / models of power tools awaiting warranty claim responses or parts for repair. Some models have fundamental design flaws! They are only the ones that "owners" could be bothered to attempt to exercise their rights under Australian Consumer Law. How many end up in landfill?

    Often the repairer is sent a new tool to cannibalize for parts! Work out the logic of that one!
    Mobyturns

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  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Clearly their products are designed to be thrown away when they go wrong, and I'll certainly never touch anything Ryobi ever again (quite apart fom the fact that their batteries are crap compared to other brands).
    When I first started buying Ryobi, it was in the knowledge that when it broke, I would throw it away and buy a new one. My experience though is that I have only had one failure - a plug-in electric chainsaw.
    I have a shed full of Ryobi 18V battery tools as well as multiple gardening tools. I still have the original (blue) Ryobi battery drill I bought and it still runs well, though it's a bit faster now. I don't think it was originally 18V but the latest batteries fit it. Yes - I've had a few batteries fail, but they were all many years old.

    To be honest, I've had a much worse run out of Makita. Batteries fail regularly and are very expensive to replace, and the drill itself died years ago. I still buy Makita corded electric tools though - very happy with those I have bought.

  12. #26
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    Interesting you mention this about the 880 as i have found (not as extensive as your setup) an 880 with a few slabbing jigs, log holders etc forsale with a large bar, 55" i think and skip tooth chain etc. i am interested in it as well as the vertical milling attachment ive come across available on ebay or if i make my own. i have a few small logs id like to mill up and use one day. Not going to be a career changer for me but i do like knowing from end to end where my timber has come from and being used for. not sure how sustainable it actually is but ill enjoy it nontheless

    I havent come across the arborist chainsaw forum before, ive just signed up.

    If i can get this 880 setup the only thing missing are pants so ill look at that next. Im 6'4 and have come across an old English Elm tree on its side taller than me! multiple branches come out around 32" in diameter so id like to have a go at getting some boards and slabs from it


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Yes real PITA so have only done this precisely once. I found it much easier to mill more log and extract the 2 quarter sawn slabs out of each log . One log generates heaps of timber and the non quarter sawn stuff easily gets used for other projects even if it's only slightly warped garden seats.

    Have you checked out Milling & Saw Mills | Arborist, Chainsaw & Tree Work Forum

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    If i can get this 880 setup the only thing missing are pants so ill look at that next. Im 6'4 and have come across an old English Elm tree on its side taller than me! multiple branches come out around 32" in diameter so id like to have a go at getting some boards and slabs from it
    What you do with a log like that is mark it out carefully and cut it into quarters freehand lengthways. Yes it will take a few hours and you will need to roll it a few times but you will end up with sections you can mill.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Croc View Post
    What you do with a log like that is mark it out carefully and cut it into quarters freehand lengthways. Yes it will take a few hours and you will need to roll it a few times but you will end up with sections you can mill.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.
    Thanks mate, yeah ive even come across those 2x4 lengths you screw to the top and have the saw guided to run along that 2x4 for a milling like attachment to cut boards and you just control the depth. Freehand will get you the same rough board to dress later. might get one of these to get me started as i dont exactly need more slabs right now.

    AU Vertical Chainsaw Mill Steel Lumber Cutting Guide Rail Saw for Carpenters | eBay

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Thanks mate, yeah ive even come across those 2x4 lengths you screw to the top and have the saw guided to run along that 2x4 for a milling like attachment to cut boards and you just control the depth. Freehand will get you the same rough board to dress later. might get one of these to get me started as i dont exactly need more slabs right now.

    AU Vertical Chainsaw Mill Steel Lumber Cutting Guide Rail Saw for Carpenters | eBay
    That vertical milling attachment is pretty light weight and meant for a very small saw.
    I don't like the way it only hangs onto the bar via one bolt as this mean it can easily rotate and make contact with the chain.
    On small saw with little leverage it's less important but on nything with longer bar the leverage becomes much greater.

    My home made vertical milling attachment connects to the bar bolts like this
    It rides on "V" rollers on a 70x30 SHS tube that sits above the log
    The whole saw and mill can rotate to start cuts in th middle of logs.
    Finalbackside.jpg

    This will permit cuts at any angle like this 20º off vertical cut.
    cutting1.jpg

    Here's a horizontal cut also mid log.
    Hcut2.jpg

    to make this park bench seat
    Sofa.jpg

    The 441 uses Lopro chain for a thin kerf and extra low rakers and cuts like a demon.

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    That vertical milling attachment is pretty light weight and meant for a very small saw.

    My home made vertical milling attachment connects to the bar bolts like this
    It rides on "V" rollers on a 70x30 SHS tube that sits above the log
    The whole saw and mill can rotate to start cuts in th middle of logs.
    Finalbackside.jpg

    I agree the ebay unit seems lightweight, i have come across some people modifying theirs to drill holes through the bar to attach it more securely but agreed its for smaller saws.

    I havent come across anything like what you have made in those photos. this seriously looks robust and capable for someone without a lucas mill. This looks great and really supports the saw. How did you make this? did you weld it yourself?

    Id be interested in something like this but it opens a can of worms for ,me trying to manufacture something like this as im not setup for it. I might need to reach out to the local mens shed.

    Cheers,
    Nathan

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