Thread: Farmertec Holzfforma chainsaws

I got one directly, had to reset the gap on the whatzit (having a senior's memory night tonight), but since then has run fine. There is a facebook group for them which is well worth a look. They are certainly far better quality than the Baumr-Ag ones on ebay etc.

Thanks, will check fb.

Spark plug or do they have points?

Originally Posted by Bushie

Thanks, will check fb.

Spark plug or do they have points?

This one has points - gap was far too open

They are on sale at Farmertec's website for the next few hours - Farmertec Holzfforma JonCutter Chainsaw | Husqvarna Stihl Chainsaw Parts | Farmertec Official

The G660 is what I use for milling, the even bigger G070 has fill ports on the wrong side for milling.

Originally Posted by RSD

They are on sale at Farmertec's website for the next few hours - Farmertec Holzfforma JonCutter Chainsaw | Husqvarna Stihl Chainsaw Parts | Farmertec Official

The G660 is what I use for milling, the even bigger G070 has fill ports on the wrong side for milling.

The 070looks like it has no chain brake either - I don't see how these can even be legally sold into the Aussie market.

Originally Posted by BobL

The 070looks like it has no chain brake either - I don't see how these can even be legally sold into the Aussie market.

I've never seen an 070, but the 660 does come with everything that you would expect.

Originally Posted by RSD

I've never seen an 070, but the 660 does come with everything that you would expect.

The 070 is the baby brother of the famous top of the wazza 090.
It first appeared in a bone shaking form with no chain brake in 1968.
"Bone shaking" meant no anti-vibe wrap handle and trigger handle mounts, so it seriously numbed hands even after just a few minutes use.
It weighed in at 13kg and delivered 6.5HP at 7000 rpm
Screen Shot 2020-12-26 at 10.17.42 am.png

A few years later the 070AV came out with rubberised handle bouts and was ~1kg lighter.

I have an 076AV - its 111cc, and has a full chain brake and improved anti-vibe system, 1kg lighter than the 070AV and delivers 7HP at 9000 rpm.
Mine was 15 years old when I bought it in 2007 for $500. It had been used as a firewood saw and was not in too bad a shape.
It still runs well but I prefer the 880.
076original.jpg
Despite the improved anti-vibe system I still managed to get mild temporary "white finger" (nerve deadening in the trigger finger and thumb) from using it for a half dozen logs.
If this goes on for too long permanent loss of feeling can be generated
I got around this by using a remote throttle.

The low HP on these saws is made up for by increased torque so they still make great milling saws especially of a remote throttle is used. I agree the fuel/oil caps are not well located. After you run out of fuel mid cut a couple of times you learn to refill before every big cut. Its not a good idea to let the saw run out of fuel anyway, as this dramatically alters the fuel/air ratio which can seriously overheat the saw so I still check fuel level before using the 880

Originally Posted by RSD

They are on sale at Farmertec's website for the next few hours - Farmertec Holzfforma JonCutter Chainsaw | Husqvarna Stihl Chainsaw Parts | Farmertec Official

The G660 is what I use for milling, the even bigger G070 has fill ports on the wrong side for milling.

Hart in mouth... bought it yesterday...but same price

Thank you greatly for you post Bob. Have read many of your wise words over the years, here and elsewhere.

I have a 075AV for some 30+ years and trying to do it up now for milling and of course finding it hard to source parts.

Ended up buying the G660 for a backup (or possibly primary) saw.

The remote throttle sounds a great idea(hopefully not prohibitively expensive). I think we are around the same vintage, so wear and tear over the years is apparent. I have "shaken" two carbs of the old girl! Strongest type of Locktite the last time, may have solved, at least, that problem.

Look forward to bleed you of more knowledge in the forthcoming future.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Bushie

The remote throttle sounds a great idea(hopefully not prohibitively expensive). I think we are around the same vintage, so wear and tear over the years is apparent. I have "shaken" two carbs of the old girl! Strongest type of Locktite the last time, may have solved, at least, that problem.
Look forward to bleed you of more knowledge in the forthcoming future.

No worries.

The remote throttle I made for the 076 looks like this.
As you can see it is an adapted bike brake caliber.
I subsequently moved the whole thing forward to expose more of the trigger so it could still be used manually.

Trigside.jpg

The cable runs through the handle base to this bike brake handle located on a bike handle bar stem bolted to the wrap handle.
Initially I had the throttle handle on the mill but this meant disconnecting the throttle from the mill every time I wanted to removed the power head from the mill..
IMG_7349.jpg
The disadvantage of this method was the 076 vibe combined with the hardness of the bike brake pad eventually wore away part of the trigger so it had to be replaced. I then covered the pad with a piece of soft rubber hose.

On the 880 I did a much more elaborate setup using a motor cycle throttle cable and connected it direct to the saw trigger using the original cable lug
This allowed better manual access to the trigger
Cablepath.jpg

Below shows the business end - a modified motorcycle throttle.
The brass knob is a trottle lock
The small red knob opposite that is the MC kill switch - wired in series with the motor's kills switch - this places the kill switch access right next to the throttle hand.
The blue gizmo is a temp gauge
The orange gizmo is a tacho - as well as reporting engine res it serves as a reminder about the status of the kill switch - ie when starting the saw the tacho shows a short burst of RPMs if it's in the GO posn, if in the STOP post it will show zero.
Tempmon1.jpg

Both setups mean I can stand up close to my mills when milling. I always try to get at least the start end of the log up off the ground so I mill on a slope. If there is any pushing its done with a leg/thigh on the wrap handle which together with the throttle lock leaves my hands free to insert wedges - adjust aux oil feed etc.

There are two work handles on the mill itself, an inboard handle (at B, also a bike handle bar stem with a soft mountain bike rubber handlebar grip ) and a similar outboard handle (not visible in photo)
With throttle hand on A and other handle at B the operators arms are much closer together which results in less shoulder arm pain at the end of a milling day.

stance2x.jpg

The 880 throttle works by rotating opposite to the direction of a MC throttle, ie you have to rotate the top towards the front. This takes about 5 seconds to adjust to because it is done with the left hand.
The 880 with this set up is an absolute pleasure to use and one of the setups (and unlike most things I make) that exceeded my expectations by a long way.

Great innovations Bob, was impressed with the first one but the second is brilliant. Thanks greatly for the detailed guide.

Will defiantly copy the latter if I end up getting into milling in a substantial way and able to adapt to the saws I have (or will have).

Found enough bits and pieces around to make a aux oiler, apart from screw on DWV cap, which to missus picked up yesterday for a few dollars. Couldn't see the value in a store bought one at $200 odd.

Cheers.