Thread: Firewood splitter design

Im in the design stage of building my own log splitter so I am watching this thread intently as I like your design Dean.


I came across this design on Youtube that is very similar but I want to use my tractor pto to drive the pump.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82lnkp1gtuU"]Fast And Powerful Hydraulic Log Splitter - YouTube[/ame]

Can anyone tell me where I can purchase a pto driven gearbox and pump just like in the video? Are they expensive and Durable?

Here is a different design log splitter that I haven't seen before. I think its a good setup but the only fault I see is as you stand on the log lift and if you grab the wrong lever you could end up on top of the table
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbYp0bVn4pI&feature=related"]Dad's Wood Splitter - YouTube[/ame]

Dean

I am about to post a couple of pix so we will see if they go through.

Sorry to hear of your respiratory problems. It must be infuriating as well as uncomfortable (my euphemism.) However, although I don't want to highjack your thread, I have acted on your suggestions. Also I do have a commercial splitter that I have put alongside for comparison. I think it may be similar to the splitter you mentioned. Incidentally the search for canadian log splitter brought up a result I was not expecting at all.

My splitter seems to be better balanced now as a result of chopping off only the wings of the axe. This is of course if you can speak of balance and a block splitter in the same breath. They seem to have the same balance as a mace.

The mods may be able to offer some advice/correction on the pix as at the time of posting I can't see them on your thread.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by West OZ Mark

Can anyone tell me where I can purchase a pto driven gearbox and pump just like in the video? Are they expensive and Durable?

I expect they are. Anything to with hydraulics seems to be expensive. I am assuming your tractor does not have remote outlets as that would be your best and cheapest option.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

I expect they are. Anything to with hydraulics seems to be expensive. I am assuming your tractor does not have remote outlets as that would be your best and cheapest option.

Regards
Paul

No remotes on the tractor. I have aux on the front of my bobcat but not keen on running it all day while I cut wood.

This is the "Maul" I was talking about.

Attachment 213151

I just got home from 2 days of running around Melbourne for appointments for SWMBO and I am Bushed. Roo watch is tiring on top of driving around Melbourne when you don't know it. One of the best things about a GPS is that you can ignore it and that is often best.

I don't know anything about PTO mounted pumps. I would suggest you try to narrow down specialists. Hydraulics sales, but in large country centres rather than city maybe or search for a firm that has is making them. I would guess the PTO would run much slower. I guess my pump runs at about 3000rpm. I have seen a couple of tractor based systems mainly at field days but a long time ago No help I am afraid.

I would be interested in seeing your build and I might be able to help as could others.

I have had a thought that maybe I don't really want my mast to be totally rigid. Somehing has to have some give. Will see how it goes when I have time. Will have to have wood split to cover down time first. I'm off to sleep.

Dean

Originally Posted by Acco

I didn't actually say the top would twist, I said most of the twisting action will actually begin at the top, what would be happening is that when the knife engages in the wood, all the force is transferred to the top which would then start the twist, which is usually at the point furthermost from where the force has.

By adding strapping as a crisscrossed web you are therefore strengthening the UB by stiffening as you've essentially boxed the two flanges to each other. Another method to try and would require very minimum amount of material and labour, is to tie the top of the beam to the outer edges of the table. See attachment below.

DJ. I am trying to understand what you are getting at here. I do not want to ignore something that may work but I just don't get the chain of events. From what I see the knife is what is twisting. If the top of the mast was made totally rigid with the table using the method you have detailed, the knife would still twist.

Looking at the method shown in the attachment it appears to me this would not make the top rigid. Using my analogy of hinges at joints it seems to me that the mast could still twist at the top.

Dean

Thought I would post an update. I have not started yet because I have discovered that I don't have any heavy angle to suit. I need at least 65mm but would prefer 75mm. I have 2 bits of old rusty stuff but it is of slightly different thicknesses. I am waiting to go to Mt Gambier to get some new stuff. Of course I went to Metaland in Mt Gambier last Tuesday to buy some lengths of SHS for my verandah build and clean forgot all about the splitter until after I got home.

Dean