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Thread: fuel (ULP) stabiliser
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18th October 2011, 06:53 PM #16.
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This is only significant if the saw was already running close to the lean side to begin with.
Here is a tirade I wrote elsewhere about this.
Making saw run leaner by changing the petrol oil ratio only makes a difference if the ratios are changed dramatically.
For example;
At 50:1 the petrol represents 50/51'ths of the mix, or 98.03% of the mix is gas.
At 40:1 the petrol represents 40/41 or 97.56% of the mix
At 25:1 the petrol is 25/26 or 96% is gas
So going from 50: to 25:1 changes the petrol/oil ratio by 98 - 96% or 2% - it reduces the amount of petrol in the mix by just 2%
But remember, the critical factor that determines leaness is the "air to mix" ratio - not the "oil to petrol" ratio. The air to gas ratio has to change by ~5% to make a significant difference.
Now look at what else varies the air to fuel mix ratio. The total amount of air getting into the cylinder is influence by the atmospheric pressure which can commonly vary between 1000 to 1020 mb over a few days. This change represents a 2% change in air pressure and means the saw will get ~2% more air or oxygen at 1020 than 1000 mb.
Does anyone operating at the same elevation read the atmospheric pressure and then retune? - of course not, a stock saw can tolerate at least a +/- 2.5% change in air pressure which incidentally corresponds to shifting the mix down from 50:1 to about 25:1.
Even my old dads 2 man saw (Nominally 12:1), could survive with quite a varied mix ratio from ~10:1 to about 15:1 without any problems - and just as well because he used to prepare his mix by eye using dollops and dashes. If not enough smoke was coming out of the saw he would just add another dash to the mix and sometimes even direct to CS fuel tank.
If the saw was already running too lean then going from 50:1 to 25:1 can push it over the line but if the saw is already correctly tuned it should survive.
I don't know why anyone runs 25:1 these days, the modern lubes are so good it is not necessary and all it does is cover the operator and the surroundings in unburnt lube.
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18th October 2011 06:53 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th October 2011, 07:01 AM #17
So Bob, do you think I should have stayed with 50:1 and maybe also 50:1 in my 395? Harry hadn't been in the shop in most of his 7 years use, I do the servicing (clean/replace oil, fuel, air filters and plugs) and I hate to admit it, but no-one does 'the tuning' of him
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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20th October 2011, 07:31 AM #18Member
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original query - use "stabiliser" or not????
The small bottle of "stabiliser" I bought cost about $19. That will treat 76 lires of fuel which works out to 25c / litre. Quite a bit more than just buying PULP which would maybe cost 5c / litre extra???
However, only about 5% of the petrol I use is actually used in my chainsaws, and they are the only engines that have given trouble to date. The other 95% is used in trucks, pumps, mowers, mobile saw (Honda 4 st).
So, either I use the stabiliser only for the 2 stroke mix (chainsaws) or I have both ULP and PULP on hand.
I think I will use the stabiliser I have now and re-think the situation when that is finished.
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20th October 2011, 12:24 PM #19.
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If you use that much petrol you should be turning it over pretty regularly so I don't understand the need for stabiliser. Whether you use stabiliser or not if the remaining mix in the CS is more than 3-4 weeks old I'd be putting that old mix into something else and filling up the CS with fresh mix.
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20th October 2011, 12:38 PM #20.
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24th October 2011, 07:53 PM #21Intermediate Member
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I have always been sceptical about the stale fuel business. However, I recently had an outboard motor inspected by a retired boat mechanice who now just does pre-purchase inspections (he is 80 years old!!!). He told me that regular unleaded has a shelf life of 2 months. He said that the petrol companies used to add stabiliser to it, but they don't anymore due to cost cutting. Anyway, he couldn't emphasise enough, the risks of using stale fuel, but he told me to use a stabiliser called STA-BIL, which will increase the shelf life to 12 months. This works for 2 stroke fuel also. It is available at autobarn. I am not trying a sales pitch, just passing on info. Never used the stuff myself, but I will be.
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24th October 2011, 09:37 PM #22.
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A hard and fast number like 2 months is a bit misleading.
The shelf life depends on a whole bunch of things like;
- how long ago the petrol was refined,
- how much air is in the tanks when stored at the refinery, depot and petrol station and in your shed.
- cleanliness of tanks and containers
- temperature and moisture levels
- length of your grandmothers nose.
At small petrol stations the petrol could already be 4+ weeks old when it is bought.
If it is stored well it will last without any stabilizer for much longer than 2 months and if it stored poorly may not be much good even when purchased.
My standard relegation time is 4 weeks for use in chainsaw, then it relegated to the whipper snipper. after 3/4 months I used to tip the remainder into my Mitsubish petrol van but since having a diesel van I chuck it out
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24th October 2011, 10:01 PM #23Senior Member
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i wouldnt throw it out i would use it on some of my non paying customers vege patch
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25th October 2011, 06:22 AM #24
Yeah, I'm with ya - I got forum members that fit in that basket
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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25th October 2011, 07:46 PM #25
My boat hasn't moved for 3 years now, I know the 5gal tank of two-stroke will be stuffed, but any ideas on what the propper way is to get rid of it ?
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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25th October 2011, 07:58 PM #26
I do not worry about age of fuel. I just use it. Usually mix 10 litres of 2 stroke and transfer it to a 5 litre container but only half full so I have more control pouring into small tanks. Only 3 times I have had an issue.
1 was 4stroke motorbike unused for a long time due to medical reasons. Not relavant.
2 was mobilco echo chain saw not used for 18 months. Cleaned out and refueled and eventually got it started and then it was fine.
3 was 100cc husky chainsaw at the same time. Did the same but still could not get it going. Worked out it was the coil. New coil. Fixed. No bar oil because I cleaned out the oil tank, cos of info read on this forum. Thought it was priming problem. Turns out the oil pump was worn out. New oil pump. Not fitted yet.
Point is that the fuel problem was a long time in occurring. I live in a cool area in western vic. Location and climate will have a bearing on how long fuel lasts.
Dean
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