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2nd December 2020, 11:12 PM #1Novice
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Granberg small log mill are they any good?
I have had a couple of trees dropped at my place and I would like to get a few small slabs, about 1200mm long, 40mm thick from some of the timber. I am considering buying a Granberg small log chainsaw mill. I have had a look at some Youtube videos and read a few reviews and it looks like it would do the job.
I have a Stihl mini boss chainsaw which has a small width chain that cross-cuts on these trees really well.
Has anybody here used one of these mills and do you think it would work with my chainsaw? I don't know if there is a ripping chain made for these small saws, but I think a ripping chain would be necessary.
Any comments or opinions?
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3rd December 2020, 09:20 AM #2.
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By granberg small log mill I assume you mean one of these?
Screen Shot 2020-12-03 at 6.10.42 am.png
I don't have one but I know several people that do.
The bar clamp mechanism means you will lose about 50 mm of cutting length and as the miniboss has such a short bar anyway you will have a very restricted cutting width.
The other problem is the miniboss is only a 30cc saw. It's really just a firewood saw and not suited to constant running as required for a milling saw. It will have to treated very carefully so as not to kill it. It will need to be tuned to run rich which means tweaking the carby to increase the fuel air ratio. I don't even know if that is possible with that saw.
Milling is best done with at a least a 50cc saw that can be re-tuned.
Where abouts in WA are you located?
FWIW I have 4 chainsaw mills, 3 alaskan style and a rail mill. My smallest milling saw is a 72cc Stihl but have used a 50cc Homelite for short logs. I use cross cut chains that have been filed to a ripping profile.
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3rd December 2020, 09:46 AM #3
The other matter to consider is the chain & the quality of the sharpening of the chain. It easy to get into strife with a poorly sharpened chain.
Mobyturns
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3rd December 2020, 06:24 PM #4Senior Member
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Apart from other comments, I have one of these and it works well.
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3rd December 2020, 08:10 PM #5
I have one and it works. The smallest saw I have used in it is a 440.
I am learning, slowley.
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3rd December 2020, 08:25 PM #6Senior Member
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- May 2009
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- NSW
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When it comes to chainsaw milling, there is no substitute for cubic inches or the metric equivalent thereof. Then you need a cutter bar wider than your log, including the 50-odd mm that the clamp takes up on the cutter bar. And then you need to know how to sharpen chains or be prepared to learn how to do it properly. And when the first good slab finally comes off the mill you will have taken the first step on a path of addiction that is hard to control!
Have fun! And don't collect too many saws.
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3rd December 2020, 09:25 PM #7Novice
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- Nov 2016
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- Western Australia
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Good information Bob. Thanks. Sounds like I would need a bigger saw. I have an old Husky somewhere in the shed. I'll see how big that is and see if it would be better. Yes losing 50mm on that bar would limit me to making pencil cases . I am determined to get something to be able to slab up some of the timber that I fell here. At the moment I have Ironbark (Euc. sideroxylon), Tuart and another Class 1 eastern states tree that has the most beautiful dark honey-coloured wood, on the ground.
I am just south of Bunbury.
The Tuart will be a challenge, even cross-cutting that is hard compared to all the rest. It is really fibrous. I grew all these for firewood and to tree-up the bare block. But now they are getting too big and needed a cull before the fire season. The Ironbark is on its second round, having coppiced 4 x 9m 200mm straight poles in 12 years of regrowth.
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3rd December 2020, 09:29 PM #8.
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Tuart, and even more so Iron Bark, will really test out your chains sharpening but I would definitely not be trying to mill those with a 30 cc saw.
Tuart (even dry) releases a small amount of resin which turns black and really gums up chain - it therefore really helps if you have an auxiliary oiler - this does not suit the sort of mill you are looking at - for this and also the Iron bark I'd recommend an Alaskan type mill ) mill that holds the bar at both ends and enables an Auxiliary oiler to be used.
For short jobs like cutting firewood I find a small spray bottle of diesel helps keep the tuart resin off the chain. When you finish cutting just spray the chains with the diesel and the resin will fall off during the next cut.
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3rd December 2020, 09:29 PM #9Novice
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- Nov 2016
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- Western Australia
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Thanks Moby. I saw that Granberg have a new chain for milling that has two narrow teeth following two normal teeth. The theory is a couple of small cuts followed by two normal ones makes the cutting easier and faster by chipping away slowly rather than just big chunks. Yes, stopping to sharpen the saw is always a chore one has to endure.
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3rd December 2020, 09:34 PM #10Novice
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- Western Australia
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Old Hilly, I am totally addicted to timber and have wanted to mill something since I first started growing trees. The timber I have access to here is magnificent and it seems like such a waste for it to go to firewood. A small rail mill would be nice but I cant justify that so maybe a bigger chainsaw might be the way to go. I only have 2 so far.
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3rd December 2020, 09:38 PM #11.
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Those chains are good for softer woods but not that applicable in our harder woods.
I don't always like sending people off to other forums but have gander at this
Milling & Saw Mills | Arboristsite.com
The sticky at the top of that forum (Started by yours truly has a wealth of info on chains saw milling including sharpening).
CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks | Arboristsite.com
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3rd December 2020, 09:48 PM #12Novice
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- Nov 2016
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- Western Australia
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Ironbark 1.jpg
Ironbark poles are really heavy
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3rd December 2020, 10:26 PM #13Novice
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3rd December 2020, 10:37 PM #14.
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Most of what I mill is for others. Most gets used for nature play parks and playground.
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24th January 2021, 12:54 PM #15
Good mills
Never used one, but I have heard good reviews of them.
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