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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Default What hand tools do I need to work Tasmanian oak

    G'day, can anyone give me any ideas regarding traditional hand tools for rough milling Tasmanian oak. I've got a chainsaw mill but apart from that am a bit clueless. I know I need a froe because I want to cut shingles. But I don't know what size. I know I need an adze and a carpenters axe but again am clueless about sizes. Any other hand tools that anyone can think of? Much abliged.

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  3. #2
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    Apr 2018
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    Default

    Not an answer to your question but do people use tassie oak for shingles?

  4. #3
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    melb
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    Default

    Just to throw it out there, if you don't have sharpening tools you will probably need to invest in them too.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  5. #4
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    Feb 2009
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    Tasmania
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  6. #5
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    Begsey

    Simon's links above are very helpful and interesting to boot. I had seen the last video before and have always marvelled at that giant froe for the slabs.

    The trick, to avoid much heartache, is to use a very straight grained and free splitting timber and that was demonstrated particularly in the second video. There is no tree called a Tasmanian Oak. Tassie Oak comprises three species and as such is a marketing name. They are Mountain Ash (E. Regnans), Messmate Stringybark (E. Obliqua) and Alpine Ash (E. Delegatensis). So there is considerable variation between the three species and even within these species some trees will be better than others. Anything with curly or wavy grain should be avoided.

    I don't know if any of them were traditionally used for shingles. I have always called the roofing material you are planning on "Shakes" as they are split. "Shingles" are cut on a bandsaw. However that may just be my interpretation. The two main requirements for shakes are the ability to split freely combined with durability for longevity. The third requirement is availability.

    The Casuarina oaks were also widely used for shakes.

    You also will need a maul or "walloper" (probably several as they are sacrificial.)

    This thread may also be of some interest to you when looking for froes:

    Ever Wanted a Froe Away Line? (woodworkforums.com)

    If the repartee becomes too tedious, the subject of "walloper' is discussed in post #47.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    bilpin
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    Default

    What are you planning to build?
    A froe and, to a greater extent, an adze are only as good as the nut on the end of the handle. An adze requires a lot of practice. If you are intending to square logs a squaring axe is the go. But again, only as good as the nut on the handle.
    Tas oak doesnt do well when exposed to the elements, so shingles would be pretty short lived.
    I used to help my Dad restore huts in the Snowy Mountains. We used a chainsaw were ever possible. We were both well experienced with bush tools (Dad particularly) but when it comes to it, with a chainsaw you get the job done in less than half the time and your shirt is still dry.

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    If you’ve never used an adze before, get someone who is VERY experienced with one to show you for an hour how to swing it, then watch you for an hour and tell you what not to do. If you hit yourself with it, it’s going to be messy, very messy.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Hey thanks everybody, really appreciate the useful comments and information. Just doing some shed/hut building on a bush block in Tassie - more for fun and to create a day shelter than anything fancy. I use the term tas oak loosely, because there are all three species of eucalyptus on the block and all available to me. I'm going to be experimenting with cordwood walls, shake/shingle roofs and whatever else I can think of, as well as cutting beams with the chainsaw mill.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Hmmmmm, an Adze eh? We used them to cut the "joggles" on power poles for the crossarms to sit in. They need to be razor sharp. They should also not come in contact with your feet or ankles when being swung with vigour. Ours had a soft copper protector on the cutting edge for transport and storage. One of the fellows in our gang did his time in the navy, he was good with the adze. They taught their new apprentices to use the Adze while standing in metal buckets. More effective than steel capped boots. No lost feet either. Sharpening was a bit of an art but to get the angle right, or to keep it right, you took a file, laid it across the cutting edge and where the tang of the file met the handle you drilled a shallow hole, then inserted the tang of the file into that hole and you swung the file in a sweeping motion across the blade then polished with a fine abrasive stone, as you would an axe. Razor sharp is only just sharp enough. Take extreme care and have fun.
    Part 2 of the story: Jacko, my leading hand and his mate Norm used to make their drinking silver at the pub betting young blokes that they could beat then through a log with their cross-cut saw when the young blokes were using their chainsaws. Sometimes they let the chainsaw win. Those Mobilco Matchless saws were a bit hard to start.......

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Shepparton
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    508

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    Adze a vicious weapon as stated. I had to use one in the old PMG days and supposed requirement was the operator had to have legs in a bucket of sand, never complied with this work requirement but I guess was supposedly good advice at the time.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Quote Originally Posted by mature one View Post
    Adze a vicious weapon as stated. I had to use one in the old PMG days and supposed requirement was the operator had to have legs in a bucket of sand, never complied with this work requirement but I guess was supposedly good advice at the time.
    Blue Mountains City Council Electricity Dpt. didn't have big enough buckets for me to get my feet in otherwise I would have used them, that is for sure! Workcover (or whoever they are this month) would have a fit if people had to use them today.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Begsy

    I am not convinced an adze is the tool you will need: At least not a full sized one that you use in a standing position. I think you may be better off with a small broad axe (not that easy to obtain) and/or a draw knife. For the drawknife you would also benefit from having a shaving horse to easily and quickly hold the timber. I have also seen a froe used to trim shakes. If you go down that path, you may need one froe for splitting and another, that is maintained sharper, for trimming.

    Sounds like your timbered block is a good resource for a woodworker.

    Regards
    Paul

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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