Info on 10/30 Lucas Mill

**weisyboy** · 25th November 2009, 06:29 PM

the boards pinching on the plate that causes drag.

should not pinch the saw blade but rest on the knife.

In fact, I'd say that was the single largest factor in boards cut from the lower 1/3 of logs.

the boards from the lower 1/3 will only pinch at the first end for a very short wile normally by the time it curls down enough to pinch the blade is far enough along to beyond the pinch zone.

on the top 1/3 of logs the log the board will push down in the centre of the log. this is more likely to pinch the saw as the wait is always right at the knife.

The 10" is likely to be even more prone to blade flex that the 8

teh blade should not flex while running that is why they are tensioned

so it may be more likely to tend to "follow" sloping grain.

if the blade is sharp it will not follow teh grain it will cut it.

especially if trying a full-depth cut.

should only be doing a full depth cut on vertical on witch it has a stabiliser.

I'd also be concerned about chipped teeth. With the 8, a couple of teeth chipped by a nail or by another tooth getting knocked off can really drive the blade sideways.

that's why when the teeth get chipped you have to sharpen them.

although the angle of attack might vary quite a bit, possibly causing some variation in actual stress on the tip.

the cutting angle on all blades are the same so long as you know how to put teeth on.

my retipping jig dose all 5 sizes of blades.

I try to use my blades until they're unusable.

maby you should stop when its unsuitable instead of unusable.

It takes 15-20 minutes to swap out a blade, so unless it's drifting off-line enough to make the cuts fail to meet,

only takes 5 mins max its only 5 bots and 5 screws after all. it takes 10-15 mins to put the slabber on.

I'll usually just dial the dimensions up a touch to compensate and keep going until I finish the log.

how dose this help. all this would do is give oversize uneven boards.

if you keep your blades sharp and in good condition and teh adjustments right the saw mill always cut perfect timber. any error would be due to the operator.

when i bought the Lucas i had only ever worked in a conventional mill. the blade we had on the Canadian could cut a 1.2m diamiter log. if you dont keep your blades ion good condition on those saws its not just teh timber that gets destroyed.

we also had a home made twin blade mill running standard saw blades not tungsten tipped ones. it could cut a 12 x 12 and spent the whole time we had it was cutting 12 x 2s for survey pegs.

**DJ’s Timber** · 25th November 2009, 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Again, I tend not to use blades with chipped teeth if I can help it; makes the saw work much harder than it needs to for the sake of 5 mins changing the blade

Originally Posted by weisyboy

only takes 5 mins max its only 5 bots and 5 screws after all. it takes 10-15 mins to put the slabber on.

Have you guys actually timed how long it takes to change a blade, remember you need to include the time it takes to get the tools out of the ute or toolbox plus the blade, remove the water tank, saw blade cover/chute, clean the crap out of the hex bit before you can insert the allen key to loosen the bolt, not just the actual time of undoing the bolts and swapping the blade.

I'll bet that it takes a bit more than 5 minutes.

**funkychicken** · 25th November 2009, 08:24 PM

It might only take 5-10 minutes to change the blade but it takes a lot longer to retip them. I use blade until they have less than 3 teeth, are chipped like mad or just aren't cutting right

**weisyboy** · 25th November 2009, 08:30 PM

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Have you guys actually timed how long it takes to change a blade, remember you need to include the time it takes to get the tools out of the ute or toolbox plus the blade, remove the water tank, saw blade cover/chute, clean the crap out of the hex bit before you can insert the allen key to loosen the bolt, not just the actual time of undoing the bolts and swapping the blade.

I'll bet that it takes a bit more than 5 minutes.

yep. its quicker to change the blade than sharpen.

its only sometimes that the hex needs cleaning.

i use a battery drill to take the screws out.

normaly by the time i have walked around the back of the mill the new blade is waiting for me. as i very rarely mill alone it makes it a verry quick process.

as wile im changing teh blade out the fuel and watter get checked.

if you work it out its actually quicker to change the blade out than it is to keep cutting with a faked blade.

25 mins to retip a blade. done in the evenings all that's needed is some cold fuel for the operator.

**DJ’s Timber** · 25th November 2009, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by weisyboy

normaly by the time i have walked around the back of the mill the new blade is waiting for me. as i very rarely mill alone it makes it a verry quick process.

as wile im changing teh blade out the fuel and watter get checked.

Argh now the penny drops, if you have an offsider to fetch the tools and bits, it can be a quick job, but for those that mill on their own, it takes a wee bit longer hey

**funkychicken** · 25th November 2009, 09:33 PM

Originally Posted by weisyboy

25 mins to retip a blade. done in the evenings all that's needed is some cold fuel for the operator.

Not if you have have better things to do at night than drag yourself to work (10 minutes away) and stuff about with an oxy

**weisyboy** · 25th November 2009, 10:22 PM

thats what ya get when ya run your own bussiness.

i bet your boss dosent knock of at 4 and go home and sleep.

**Sigidi** · 25th November 2009, 10:22 PM

DJ, I have to admit, I haven't timed it, my gut feeling is about 5min - but I'll time it this week from shut down to blade guard back on blade.

I mill with everything sitting next to the mill other than the blade (even my lunch and water for the blade) I clean out the screws with my corkscrew on the swiss army knife in my pocket, crack a nut with the 13mm combination spanner sitting within arms reach in the Lucas box, then wind out the bolt with my cordless, they sit on the open cardboard housing the new blade at my feet, repeat 3 times, change over blade and reverse process.

You've peaked my Obsessive Compulsive side, so I'll be sure to time it, making sure to walk around as if it's a 'normal' blade change rather than an F1 tyre change...

**Exador** · 26th November 2009, 06:45 AM

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Argh now the penny drops, if you have an offsider to fetch the tools and bits, it can be a quick job, but for those that mill on their own, it takes a wee bit longer hey

Even with an offsider, by the time you clean it all out and get the new blade sharpened it's at least 10 minutes, nearer to 15 in my experience.

Weisy, I'm not going to get into a stoush with anyone about whether the blade "should" flex or not - they just do whether they "should" or not.

Tensioning is basically there to stop them dishing, nothing will stop them flexing in use.

**Sigidi** · 26th November 2009, 07:11 AM

Sharpening a new blade??? Huh??? why sharpen a new blade, shouldn't it be sharp, I guess my saw doctor goes the extra mile - all 'new' blades are sharp to begin with

**weisyboy** · 26th November 2009, 07:43 AM

mine are verry sharp when i put them on. especialy if i get peacocks to do them.

**Exador** · 26th November 2009, 08:42 AM

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Sharpening a new blade??? Huh??? why sharpen a new blade, shouldn't it be sharp, I guess my saw doctor goes the extra mile - all 'new' blades are sharp to begin with

I AM the saw doctor...

**funkychicken** · 26th November 2009, 07:46 PM

I timed it at 5 minutes to get the blade off. Tips don't start life razor sharp straight out of the mold, if you retip yourself then you have to sharpen them

**weisyboy** · 26th November 2009, 08:11 PM

i buy pre sharpened pre tinned tips when i do it myself. these cut best before a sharpen.

FC are you on an hourly rate?

anyhoo

back to teh point of the thread.

the only reason i have not upgraded to a 10-30 is that there is not enough demand for the extra 2". and it dosent take long to double cut once in a while.

if i was buying a mill for teh first time and i could afford teh 10" mill i would probably buy teh 8 and get some extras with teh left over money.

**funkychicken** · 26th November 2009, 08:51 PM

Millwork or dealing with customers I get paid for per hour, but anything that has to do with the Lucas I don't get paid for. Except Milling of course, for which I get a cubic metre rate

Thread: Info on 10/30 Lucas Mill

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