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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Perth (hills)
    Age
    44
    Posts
    2

    Default Jarrah slabs, how to deal with termite and fungi damage

    Hi All,

    First time poster here... I've been quietly slabbing away in the Perth hills (well, not so quietly with a CSM) as some big trees had to come down and couldn't have them become firewood.

    The termite damage I've pressure washed out, so most of the muddy stuff is gone, but there is quite a bit of fungal decay (white fungus) which I assume is also termite driven. I've washed / removed the really loose bits, and have started stacking them to dry. My question really is should I remove the broken-up fungal affected areas, or leave them and hope it doesn't spread whilst drying? I'll plan to make tables out of them when they're dry.

    I cut them all 65mm / 2.5" thick. Slabs are around 3m long. I have others yet to cut at nearly 5m long... and I want to cut them that length as it's better make length decisions after the slabs have been cut. I've been caught out before on a smaller log. 5m lengths become too heavy to lift though, so I may have to cut the log after the first slab cut.

    Here are some pics:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRV7eH6uEYo2zpqV8

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Provided the slabs are stored out of the weather, above ground and well stocked I'd just leave.

    I had a look at your pics, If you are interested I could suggest some ways of improving the cut finish.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Perth (hills)
    Age
    44
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi Bob
    Yep, they're in my shed, stacked with spacers. I'm all ears to improve the surface finish. When there are dry I'll be routing them flat so that will fix the surface roughness. The 10 degree ripping chain I have is skip tooth, but doesn't look like other ripping chains I've seen... That have almost half the cutting width and 'ejector links' between the cutting teeth.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JitsukaBlue View Post
    Hi Bob
    Yep, they're in my shed, stacked with spacers. I'm all ears to improve the surface finish. When there are dry I'll be routing them flat so that will fix the surface roughness. The 10 degree ripping chain I have is skip tooth, but doesn't look like other ripping chains I've seen... That have almost half the cutting width and 'ejector links' between the cutting teeth.
    Sounds like a Granberg Chain which won't help the finish. I reckon these chains are unnecessary for small logs and saws and even for larger logs its all about how the chains is set up rather than the type of chain.
    I just regular full comp chain and this is the finish I get.
    Just needs a belt sander run over them and they are usually OK.
    Nicefinish.jpg

    Having the cutters and raker set up right is important,
    The cutters should be set up so the chain has some self feeding and this means less pushing.
    If you go to this thread it will tell you about something called "Progressive raker setting"
    You'll have to read it all as it's mentioned there in dribs and dribs.
    https://www.arboristsite.com/communi...-tricks.93458/
    Progressive raker setting is a key to optimise milling speed which then means you can concentrate on handling the mill in a way to make a good finish.
    If you would like a one-on-one chain sharpening tutorial I am happy to do one.

    Firstly get the log up on a slope so there is always some downward pressure in the cut.
    Run the saw WOT and avoiding stopping or slowing down even to insert wedges.
    Use a remote throttle or zip tie to hold the throttle WOT - this frees up one hand to insert wedges as you go.
    Use the ladder on every cut - as well as making straighter slabs, teh space between rungs can be used to relocate wedges and a hammer.
    While you are inserting edges the slope should keep the mill cutting but you can also add some extra pressure by leaning with you knee/thigh/hip on the saw wrap handle.
    DOn't seesaw the mill sideways down the log - maintain the same angle of cut all the way - seesawing will add washboard effect as the mill slightly tilts as you change direction.
    f you have to stop don't fang/slam the bar back into the cut but ease it in slowly.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    lower eyre peninsular
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,577

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    Side issue but interesting

    Years ago I bought a dismantled industrial shed, the rafters and roof things were all Jarrah and in beautiful condition. Without my knowing the farm that it was stored on shifted it all outside and when discovered the little critters were making sawdust. Fuming I loaded it all onto old car trailer (supposedly) and put it into a shed for storage 18 months ago I start cleaning out shed and there is no evidence of critters and or any sawdust. My guess they enjoyed their feed of wood but liked the damp soil. With being in a shed the heat killed them? dont know..
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,257

    Default

    With regard to termites, I believe they reside or nest in the ground. Remove the timber from the nest and the termite infestation dies.

    The slabs. I reckon store them out of the weather, stickered, but with a little bit of air movement. Seal the ends.

    In years time or more, plane them flat and fill voids or defects with a resin of your choice
    Willy
    Jarrahland

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