Thread: Jonsered/huskvarna chainsaw chain selection

Unless you are talking really small logs (e.g. 1ft in diam and couple of ft long) 42cc is not really in log ripping territory and you are in danger of killing such a small saw.
You didn't say what size your logs were but that would be worth knowing before further advice can be give,

The other thing that worries me is you only just noticed the chain needs sharpening ?
A good operator will touch up the chain after every tank full of fuel so the chain is always sharp or near sharp.
It's difficult to do this properly unless you do it yourself as trusting chainsaw shops to do it is a bit of a raffle and most do not know how to do it to optimise chain lifetime.
I have sharpened quite a few chains for other people who ask me if they should buy a new chain and 9/10 times all they need to do is file their existing chain properly.
If you wish, post a close up "side on" picture of a chain cutter and I can do a chain diagnosis for you.

Thanks Bob.
The logs are only small. 1200 long by 500.
These are green not dry. So I wanted to split them to facillitate drying and make easier to handle to break down later.
The saw has only started to cut off. I think it must have nicked a stone. Even though I tried to be careful to ar.dirt etc off them.
I know the blade.needa sharpening. I know the basics of sharpening but would probably do more harm than good. Also to rip the logs down the middle will be a challenge. I am not doing a lot.

1200 mm long means you can at least stand the longs up to cut them but maintaining a straight cut will be difficult.
In addition a 14" bar on a 500 mm long means a double cut the first of which will have to be done with a buried bar/nose. This is especially hard on any saw let alone a small one and is why I reckon likelihood of damage is high.

The easiest way to do this job is with a small alaskan chainsaw mill but as these cut the full diameter of the log in one pass you will need to use a 25" bar to cut 500 mm wide. This will require at least a 70cc saw.

If you decide to proceed that apart from a sharp chain I would also get the saw tuned because if it runs to lean it is also likely to be damaged.

Thanks again Bob.
Looks like I will need to find a mate with a bigger saw.
I have photos of logs and chainsaw and closeup of blade teeth.
Will try and post on Monday from computer rather than the phone.
Lyle.

Hey Lyle, if you where in my neighborhood, I'd just chuck my saw through it for you - to that end try find a Sawmiller locally and take them to him or ask if/when he's coming past if he can rip em up for a six pack

Thanks for the replies.
Photos of the logs and my chainsaw.
I'll wait a while to sort out hoe to break them down.
It was a shame that I couldn't get all of the trees. I just do not have the space to store them. I nearly busted my boiler getting just these four.
They had been felled by the big storms earlier this year. They appear very pale, almost pink. Will they darken down or remain pale? Newcastle area grown.

Chain pics are a bit blurry so I can really see how sharp they are but the geometry looks OK.
The chain on your saw is a type of safety chain which is not really good a ripping as it does not clear the sawdust from the cut all that well.
You could try a regular chain

With only those 4 logs to do it would be possible to cut these using that saw but I would make sure the chain is sharp, get the saw tuned and take it easy.
I'd let the saw cool right down and and touch the chain up between cuts.

Thanks Bob. I was going to get a 'ripping' chain and have my chain sharpened too.
maitland has a dealership for these chainsaw, so I'm going to call and see what they can do for me.
I'll take your advice on cutting etc.
Thanks
Lyle.

Hey Bob,

Do you have more info or pics that explain safety vs non safety chains? I am unfamiliar with the differences.

Brendan

The blokes out at Maitland were very helpful. Although they don't have a ripping chain for my saw. Their advice was the same as BobLs. Slow and steady, touch up as I go. I also bought a spare chain. So should be OK. I'll post pics after the cutting.
Lyle.

The logs look like they would split nicely, provided there are no major knots, you could at least split them in half to start with if you have wedges.
I prefer splitting any oaks.

Originally Posted by 19brendan81

Hey Bob,

Do you have more info or pics that explain safety vs non safety chains? I am unfamiliar with the differences.

Brendan

The long raised "insert" section between the cutting teeth stop the teeth from digging into the wood, they keep the cutting teeth elevated as it were. This is fine for cross cut where the chips clear out easily but for ripping you get long shavings and they will jam into the teeth and prevent it from cutting. A cross cut chain will have gaps between the teeth and also have (I believe) a narrower kerf.

John