Thread: Laser tip chainsaw bars

Originally Posted by InterTD6

Jamming crud under the chain on the tip of a sprocket nose bar shows a lack of sawing skill. A properly adjusted solid tip bar should have a few mm of chain slackness, so straight away its at a disadvantage of a tighter sprocket nose bar for allowing crud under the chain, inboard & outboard clutches are the real difference when it comes to the drive end of the show. About the only plus I can think of for a solid tip bar is if it was the only thing available
if a sprocket nose bar wasn't available. I try never to cut dirt with my saw, I leave the plowing & planting corn for the tractor.
regards inter

On this Inter I will agree to disagree with you. I will also reserve returning the insult which you have paid me, other than to say that there is nothing lacking in my cutting skill department, and that you obviously have a very high opinion of yourself, and do not really have a sound understanding of what you think you do.

if you are stripping bark from stringy etc. where you are using the tip of the bar to rip the bark or even when ripping (noodling) a log, skill has nothing to do with long fibres binding in a roller tip. As for cutting dirt, I do not know why you tried to throw an insult in on that regard, as anyone on this forum would have the common sense to keep the chain out of the dirt.

Personally, as I think I may have already stated, both types of bars have advantages, and disadvantages, and there are times where I would much prefer a hard tip bar and others where a roller tip will shine.

As for the few mm of slackness on a hard tip bar rubbish, shows that you have never actually used one or if you have, never learned to adjust your tension correctly. Used correctly and properly maintained a hard tip bar will outlast a roller tip by a large percentage, and will handle rougher and dirtier conditions.

As for the comment about clutches I only use inboard clutches as I only use stihl chainsaws, like anyone worth their salt should. . what I find makes a bigger difference is using rim sprockets as opposed to spur sprockets.

The lack of skill comment was not an insult but just an observation of unskilled cutters over the years who don't let the saw rev enough ( I was one of them once too & done it) & think that by loading the saw up & trying to let the torque do the cutting, which just eventually bogs down the saw and the chain, then they withdraw the bar from the timber which drags chips, bark etc under the tip of the bar (either sprocket nose or hard nose it doesn't matter), by letting the saw operate at full revs while cutting whatever bar you have will stop this problem.
As far as the chain adjustment & having a few mm of slackness I believe the manufacturers recommendation for a hard tip bar chain adjustment is "just touching the tie straps". From my experience the only difference between just touching & a few mm is time & its easier to do, I used to stuff around getting the adjustment "just touching" but it makes no great difference when your falling or crosscutting
Not all stihl chainsaws have had inboard clutches.
The remark about plowing & planting corn was a joke even though I have seen some furrows left by some people you that could have planted corn in,
which seems like rough & dirty conditions to me, which would be good for a solid tip bar.
Another minus about solid tip bars is they are deeper in height & have a larger radius at the tip therefor heavier than an equal length sprocket nose bar,(laminated or solid) not so bad when your using a old type of powerhead which will counterbalance the weight, but say a 63cm bar on a ms660 the tip of the saw will hang down further while carrying it by the top handle with a solid nose bar, so thats a disadvantage when your in rough country falling.
And of course I have a normal good opinion of myself, do you have a low bad opinion of yourself ?
regards inter