Thread: Lucas finishishing

Matt, one thing you have to remember (and every now and then I'm reminded of it when I get a 'different' customer) the slabbing bar and sawblade gives rough sawn timber - it's not dressed or sized, some form of finishing has to occur once it's cut before it is used.

A recent cusomer had his tape measure out on every stick I cut, measured each stick 2-3 places and was unhappy with 3-4mm of spring in 3m. I tried to explain the machine's purpose isn't to provide sized, dressed timber...

With the slabber, I can post some pics 'off the saw' in the daylight, often it is dependant on your chain sharpening skills, you can slow down the progress through the cut which also provides a smoother finish, and it also depens a bit on what species you are cutting too. Happy to answer any q's for you if you'd like to email me, or post them here.

Are you looking to buy a dedicated slabber unit?

The Lucas slabber can give you a good finish off the chain for something that is cut from a chain but will require further finishing once it has dried.

You must take into account shrinkage from drying, I have rarely seen a slab that didn't require a minimum of 3 to 5mm or more off each side to to bring it back to a flat level surface again, so if you're after flat table tops you will need to invest further in a Lucas Planing Disc, a wide belt sander which requires dedicated 3ph of serious power or a slab master.

You'll never get a slab cut from green that doesn't require more finishing work once it has dried to EMC.

and dj knows who's got the slabmaster closest to his place

You are always gonna get some movement in the drying process because the tree is full of different tensions which help to keep it upright but all this means is you just have to cut your slabs thick enough to compensate for slight warpage that will occur although a lot of good timber is ruined by poor stripping and drying practices as well it is worth noting.55-60 mm is a good size that will get you a 45mm + or end product which is more than adequate.
I checked out the Slab Master but I personally think the Wood Wizz is much better and hence bought one.
The "cleanness" of a cut is determined by the sharpening and nothing cuts like a new chain. you definately need to invest in your own sharpening equipment of the chainsaw shop type to ensure perfect sharpening because if your using Oregon 27RX you only have 28 teeth on a bar that can cut 5 foot(I am not an Oregon rep by the way) so consistent sharpening is essential. Sometimes you will get a wash board type effect on the slab which is annoying but can generally be resolved by reducing the top plate angle to 5 deg or less.
Bla Bla Bla
Ed wood

G;day.Yeah i am considering buying a dedicated slabber Sigidi. Why are second hand hard to find? Aslo is it best to plane and sand while the timber is still green? And tungsten teeth is this a good option for the dedicated slabber. Thanks for all your input.

Originally Posted by Matthewd

Yeah i am considering buying a dedicated slabber. Why are second hand hard to find?

a) milling is addictive
and
b) Good products are always hard to find second hand

Aslo is it easier to plane and sand while the timber is still green?

I wouldn't bother. The wood twists and warps as it dries so you will have to plane/sand it again anyway. Also milling tomber to bigger sizes than necessary and then resawing with a bandsaw can give you better recovery.

We have a slabmaster at work, apart from one little annoyance, it's great. If the blade's nice and sharp you can level decent size slabs in 10-30mins (depending on slab size.) The sanding disc is easy to put on and use and leaves a great finish with 120grit paper.

Originally Posted by Matthewd

G;day.Yeah i am considering buying a dedicated slabber Sigidi. Why are second hand hard to find? Aslo is it best to plane and sand while the timber is still green? And tungsten teeth is this a good option for the dedicated slabber. Thanks for all your input.

Second hand are rare as hens teeth as once someone has one, they never want to get rid of it - so you've basically got to wait 'til someone dies to buy one second hand or be in the right place at the right time as they tend to sell really quick.

Finish slabs after they are dry and stable - Lucas do the planer head for this, I haven't tried one, but from reports of folkes here they are pretty good.

Tungsten teeth - don't bother, the extra 'life' it's supposed to have is far outweighed by the added grief and heaps extra cost. A normal off the shelf chian does a lot of slabbing.

keep throwing up any q's you have...

G'day Auricaria heterophylla(norfolk is pine) what do they slab like?Pros and cons.

Norfolk pine is prettier than say normal pine ( pinus radiata ) , it looks quite similar and can ooze lots of resin during drying .You might find someone who wants an economical alternative so it might be good to practice on but I personally wouldn`t make a habit of it.
Cheers