Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 15
-
7th January 2013, 05:57 PM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Brisbane/Stanthorpe
- Posts
- 9
Lucas Mill - semi permanent set ups
Hi all
Recently bought a 6-18 and fired it up for the first time over the holiday at my block. I was cutting very green timber (i.e. cut down the tree and mill on the same day) as I needed to get the timber to finish the shed by the end of the week so I could lock up the mill and leave it at the property. I did a bunch of 4x2 framing and some weatherboards to clad an existing log-framed shed roof, and predrilled everything to try to manage the shrinkage as it occurs.
As it was my first try at it, I wasn't very prepared with chocks, wedges, etc, so learnt quite a few lessons along the way. But this got me thinking, what's a good set-up for a semi permanent milling operation? My wife is particularly concerned about our daughter running around the place, and we have dogs etc getting in the way, so having a designated milling area will help.
All I'm trying to do at this stage is get timber to build myself a small weekender, then a house, and then some farm buildings. I'm not looking to produce anything to sell, and I'm not after volume. I have about 20ha of mixed forest, with lots of tall/straight/large diam timbers, some stringy bark, some eucalypt.
Other then begging/borrowing/hiring a ute or 4wd to drag the logs, I don't have any plant to move the logs around with at this stage (will get a tractor when I move there but finishing the weekender is a prerequisite to moving, so it's chicken and egg).
So I was thinking that over a long weekend I could borrow a 4wd/tractor, fell a bunch of trees, cut to length and then drag to where I have the mill set up on a flat bit of ground or a deck (don't want to pour slab for various reasons).
Then, using a pair of chain winches or similar, I can roll the log into position without a vehicle (and correct the alignment as I go) and work by myself.
Having set the mill up and broken it down a number of times already, I'm wondering if it's easier/preferable to have a semi-fixed set up for the mill and think of a clever way of moving the log, or roll the log into position and then make adjustments to the mill?
Any comments/thoughts/pics people have of a relatively fixed setup would be great.
-
7th January 2013 05:57 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
7th January 2013, 07:56 PM #2Novice
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- grafton
- Posts
- 14
Unacceptable wording
The romanticism of buying a portable sawmill and milling your own wood. Welcome to the real world of milling with equipment costs and maintenance i chuckle at how many lucas mills are sold on the pretense that it oh so easy.GET use to lugging it around your forest or get a competant miller who has the gear and save yourself some money
-
7th January 2013, 08:10 PM #3
Set your mill up on level,sheltered ground...winch the logs if you have to...and buy yourself a cant hook...lucas mills aren't that difficult to move around,particularly if you have someone helping you...where there's a will,there's a way...i say go for it,milling can be good fun!
Mapleman
-
7th January 2013, 08:45 PM #4New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Brisbane/Stanthorpe
- Posts
- 9
ta
Cheer Mapleman. I've definitely enjoyed it so far, even just having a fairly amateur rip at the logs.
Learned my lesson re: shelter and flat ground. Was thinking each time I had to set up over a new log that it would be slightly quicker to have a jack under each foot to re-level the tracks, instead of having to run around finding chocks, move the trolley down the other end, etc, etc. Same again for adjusting the log and/or tracks horizontally and vertically to align with the heart.
Still and all, anyone who has any pics worth sharing, I'd be keen to see how you guys to do it.
Cheers
D
-
7th January 2013, 09:18 PM #5
The more difficult part of sawmilling is handling the timber, both before and after cutting.
Your issue is going to be snigging logs. As Mapleman says, logs are relatively easily rolled (it's very handy trees being fundamentally round, but surprising how difficult an irregular shaped log can be) with the use of a cant hook, which is just a lever that id designed to grip the log. If you can get ectra help (and extra cant hooks) the job becomes easier again.
So back to snigging. If you can borrow a tractor for a day that might suffice to get a log supply to get you out of trouble for your immediate building material needs. Position the logs so they can be rolled into place. make sure you have crowbars or other levers to move the log ends around when they roll to the wrong spot. Small tractors and 4WDs have limited capability. Also be careful with tractors if you are in hilly country. Actually, be very careful. If it is possible to lift the front of the log when towing this helps by preventing it digging into the ground and reducing friction.
BUT, it also wants to tip up the front of the tractor. Beware! I don't want to sound quite as sceptical as baz wood but he does make a good point that it is not as easy or cheap as you may have been led to believe . If you can persuade the tractor owner to drive it for you that is even better. He knows (hopefully) what his tractor is capable of and it helps to have an second person hooking up the logs otherwise you are constantly jumping up and down from the machine making minor adjustments.
Actually a bulldozer is what you really want. A guy I know did a tug of war test between an ancient 40HP Fiat bulldozer and a modern 95HP FWA John Deere tractor. In top gear the dozer towed the JD in low gear .
Another thought is that if you snig a log immediately it is debarked there tends to be much less friction because the sap may be running. One day later it will be dry.
One of the scourges of permanent sites is sawdust. It needs to be removed, but from your description of limited use I think you will be able to cope.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
7th January 2013, 09:28 PM #6
Maybe get yourself an ol' army "BLITZ'..you can't kill 'em....
Mapleman
-
8th January 2013, 11:21 AM #7
pcqypcqy, thats a great project you have there,
don't be discouraged by anyone telling you its too hard, your too inexpeirenced, etc etc. there's much personal satisfaction to be gained from harvesting & milling your own timber to make your own buildings. Accepting that its is hard work, mistakes will be made & there will be a lot to learn, its also a hell of a lot of fun too!!
On the safety side of things, what Bushmiller said about tractors is very important & I'll add a bit more: when pulling an object never allow the hitch point to be above the center line of the rear axle. Imaging towing even a small log through a slight depression in the ground with the chain attached to the lower linkage bar(never do this) - the front of the log digs into the ground - under load the linkage rises above the axle line - within an instant the tractor has flipped and you'll be pushing up daisys for ever more.
The old timers who lived & worked in the bush all their lives often never had the advantage of hydralics & horsepower so they devised many ways to gain mechanical advantage to move logs easier & safer, one way was to use a "log arch" do a google image search on it.
Cant hooks make rolling a log much easier but be careful with them. I quickly learnt not to stand in front of the log and roll it towards me, as a log with a slight bend rolled over-center the cant hook lost its hold & the log suddenly "took off" towards me, and who said "white men can't jump" I sure as hell did!!. Now I roll the logs away from myself.
Are the any Lucas operators close by? you may be able to work with them a bit to learn more.
Keep us posted on your project
cheers,
Dean."Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"
Confucius.
-
8th January 2013, 01:06 PM #8New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Brisbane/Stanthorpe
- Posts
- 9
low tech
Cheers spray-tech, a log arch is exactly the sort of elegant low-tech approach I'm looking for. The terrain I have isn't overly mountainous, just some hilly bits. The main issue is getting past the smaller trees to the biggers ones, but if I take as I go I should be able to cut a trail for better access.
Totally understand re: tractors and flipping, hence this towing approach would be ideal. Could even still use my mate's 4wd for a lot of it, he's a bit worried about damaging his tow points by purely dragging the stuff, so putting the log on wheels would be perfect.
Are these sort of things DIY, or are they available for sale? Would be keen to get some prices on cant hooks and log arches.
D
-
8th January 2013, 09:07 PM #9
Hi D,
depending on where ya are mate, more than welcome to pop down to brissy to have a look at my setup. I've done a bunch of mobile work, semi-permanent work and more permanent work over the past 10 years with 1 of 3 different Lucas mills. I started out with a 6-18 and am using a model 10 EFI now. I can show ya different things to use for loading logs a lot quicker and easier than doin things up here. If you are handy with a welder you can even copy my self made cant hook to use for log rolling if ya want.
PM me or contact me via my website with email or mobile.I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
-
8th January 2013, 10:43 PM #10
Google "log arches" and "cant hooks." There are many pictures under the images. Or you can make them up yourself from your own timbers
:Highgate 023.jpgHighgate 022.jpg
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
9th January 2013, 12:19 PM #11New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Brisbane/Stanthorpe
- Posts
- 9
cheers guys
Sigidi - I've sent you a PM with my details.
BM - I reckon I could have a go at a log arch myself with some heavy timbers and some wheels, but don't have any welding skills at this stage so I might just buy a cant hook for now. I saw Logosol do one where it's a 2-in-1 job so you can maintain the grip with one while moving the other, dunno if it's of any real benefit but looks impressive to me as a newbie.
I'll see how I go with my brother as he works for a crane rigging company, so he might be able to get me some cheap chains and winches. I'm keen on this approach as it takes most of the manual handling out of it, especially the risk of me standing between the log and where it wants to go (i.e. downhill).
-
19th January 2013, 09:41 PM #12
Dave came over and had a morning with me on the mill today. Helped me get an order out and we sliced up 4 decent ironbarks. Got Dave using my cant hook and went over a bunch of log rolling, lining up the log, cutting patterns, sharpening, some 'Lucas' things a whole bunch of stuff - good to meet ya Dave
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
-
19th January 2013, 10:27 PM #13
-
23rd January 2013, 01:31 PM #14New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Brisbane/Stanthorpe
- Posts
- 9
Thanks again for having me out Al, you can't buy that sort of experience. Though I did pay my way when I noticed the number of sleepers you almost drove off with
-
25th January 2013, 08:47 AM #15
Yer I had switched off, strapped the pack of timber up and tied it down, when Dave notices I'm 5 boards short for the delivery I was off to do good on ya mate
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
Similar Threads
-
Lucas Mill New
By MICKYG in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 0Last Post: 26th September 2007, 08:50 AM -
lucas mill
By dave1963 in forum ANNOUNCEMENTSReplies: 2Last Post: 19th October 2004, 12:04 AM -
lucas mill
By natural edge in forum TIMBERReplies: 1Last Post: 19th December 2003, 04:01 PM