Thread: lucas slabber rising in the cut

Bob, it isn't that there was something derogatory said, it is that someone (who, when reading closely what they wrote, obviously wasn't speaking about a Lucas slabber) suggested the only way to overcome Footrots issue with his Lucas slabber was to throw the bar, the sprocket and the chain away, even though it wasn't specifically given as advice for a "Lucas slabber", it was given as advice for Footrots problem with HIS Lucas slabber. I was trying to counter the bad information given regarding issues with the Lucas slabber.

I'm not so blindfolded as to say that there is never any issues with Lucas gear - I had my worst issue I've ever had with slabbing a fortnight ago. Ended up ruining two slabs on a customer (and subsequently gave a considerable discount to well and truly compensate them for the issue), strangely enough it was very similar to what Footrot experienced here; Lucas slabber rose in the cut to the point I could not move forward (still kicking myself 2 weeks later for not noticing sooner), I got about 1.5m into a 3.2m bluegum. I had been slabbing for the best part of two days so knew nothing was wildly wrong with the Lucas mill or mill setup, or Lucas slabber alignment (all very similar to Footrots issue) but after hand sharpening for the better part of ten years, I haven't needed to throw away almost $1000 worth of gear as was suggested.

So in an attempt to help out Footrot with specific information regarding the Lucas Slabber, (and not have others down the track potentially confused by misinformation regarding the Lucas slabber) I wanted to point out the (how do I say nice and politically) "not quite so correct" information given for a Lucas slabber.

I hope that clears up any "perceived paranoia" I may have exhibited regarding Lucas Mills or Lucas slabbers.

So

I had my worst issue I've ever had with slabbing a fortnight ago. Ended up ruining two slabs on a customer (and subsequently gave a considerable discount to well and truly compensate them for the issue), strangely enough it was very similar to what Footrot experienced here; Lucas slabber rose in the cut to the point I could not move forward (still kicking myself 2 weeks later for not noticing sooner), I got about 1.5m into a 3.2m bluegum.

So you have the exact same problem as the guy your advising..... And you have no idea how to cure it.
But you feel in a position to advise the OP - how to "cure it by following your advice".... (while at the same time suggesting he ignore my advice).

No it's fixed and without having to throw valuable equipment away, hence why I offered the advice, I offer advice from experience specific to the topic and if it's not specific to the topic, I don't.

Replacing a chain is fine if the drive cog and bar are in good shape, if they aren't in good shape, then they will just ruin a new chain and good logs in double quick time - which is a waste of $.

Without seeing them, how can any of us know, their true condition and whether they need replacement or not - I happened to mention it as ONE POSSIBILITY (among others)? I certainly didn't blame any one brand of slabber or mill for the perfectly normal day to day wear on bar chain and drive sprocket!

How is it "an unwarranted criticism of a brand of mill/slabber attachment" if the ONLY equipment I have addressed is the chain bar and drive sprocket?

You've tried (unsuccessfully I might add) to put your words into my mouth, then denigrate me publicly for it, which I am unhappy about and I'll thank you to cease and desist forthwith please.

Defend your favorite brand all you like - just leave me out.

I'm commenting on chain bar and sprocket - and those alone and even in them, I don't mention brand.

Cheers!

TT: If the bar is worn to the extent you show, then I agree it is time to give them them flick, however, I have never seen a worn bar with your side profiles.

Firstly and most importantly, unless the bar is a well used, the drive link does not reach the bottom of the bar groove so it cannot wear the side of the groove near the bottom.

Next the bar gaps I've seen when used with a tilted chain, slightly splay open the gap about as much as they wear the bar, so the bar deformation is about half wear and half spay.

When the bar is dressed and closed the drive link now rides further inside the bar and the bottom of the drive link now can make contact with unworn bar groove near the bottom of the groove which helps keep the chain upright.

I also just realized my diagram is not 100% correct,but what I said above still applies.

Chain life is determined by many factors. All of which should be taken into consideration at the time of chain replacement. Blindly disregarding any malformation will be at the expense of chain life. The forces exerted on a 1500 long bar by a worn chain can be considerable and careful monitoring of wear surfaces is not time wasted.
Almost all the possible causes for a wandering cut have been mentioned. It is unfortunate that some have seen the need to denigrate others in so doing.

I've put forward my experience specifically with Lucas slabbers, as was asked.

Hopefully all of this crud can be put to rest now?

Alot of really good advice throughout the thread, i thought..Footrot should be able to sort it now MM

Ok, I think everyone has had their say in the matter, let's keep it on topic now, which is the slabber rising in the cut.

Wow!!!!
I guess if the bar get's that flogged! One would have cut a lot of slabs!! I dare say, one would have the money to buy a new one??

Speak civilly to one another and heed DJ's advice. Thank you.

An update on where I'm up to with this dilemma-which is in fact no longer a dilemma. I bought a bar rail closer and closed up the rails as much as possible, then dressed the rails back square. New chain, home ground skip tooth. Ensured the rails where running true and the bar is running square to the carriage and rails. I cut 900mm wide by 4.2 meter long blue gum slabs with no wandering. To be honest on reflection I think the problem was caused by trying to get too much from a log and on the first cut not fully burying the bar into timber but running it close to the surface, often with some of the top side of the chain exposed. As we know the chain drags into the timber and it would be pulling forward out of the bar groove and rising up onto the top of the timber. This practice over time has worn the bar unevenly and the chain unevenly. I hope mentioning this stops someone else falling into the same trap. Also shows that a bit of advice heeded and with a bit of effort a problem can be nutted out.

Originally Posted by footrot

An update on where I'm up to with this dilemma-which is in fact no longer a dilemma. I bought a bar rail closer and closed up the rails as much as possible, then dressed the rails back square. New chain, home ground skip tooth. Ensured the rails where running true and the bar is running square to the carriage and rails. I cut 900mm wide by 4.2 meter long blue gum slabs with no wandering. To be honest on reflection I think the problem was caused by trying to get too much from a log and on the first cut not fully burying the bar into timber but running it close to the surface, often with some of the top side of the chain exposed. As we know the chain drags into the timber and it would be pulling forward out of the bar groove and rising up onto the top of the timber. This practice over time has worn the bar unevenly and the chain unevenly. I hope mentioning this stops someone else falling into the same trap. Also shows that a bit of advice heeded and with a bit of effort a problem can be nutted out.

That will do it. Unless it is a very special type of tree those shallow face cuts are not worth messing with.

You really need a good 10-15mm of timber above the chain to make sure the top cutters don't 'break out' of the log

All in all, pleased you are back to cutting