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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Israel
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    3

    Default Milling an Olivewood log

    G'day all
    I am writing from the Middle East.
    I recently got a beauty of an olivewood log (about 2 meters long and 50-70 cm diameter) The log has a bend to it, as well as a fair sized cavity more or less down the middle. The tree was estimated at 150-200 years old, and has been dead for about 4 years, exposed to the elements

    I am thinking about quartersawing it to try and expose the complex grain and cutting 2" slabs/boards. Because the wood has so many 'features' (i.e. holes), I really don't know how wide the boards will end up
    .
    I am using a 28" Stihl Magnum and welding up an Alaskan Mill - thanx Stu Ablett.

    I hope to get enough board to join up a good sized tabletop

    Any hints on the best lines to quarter?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    kuranda north qld
    Posts
    717

    Default

    You have a challenge there .looks quite dificult to get any long straight cuts . best of luck Bob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Daylesford
    Age
    41
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Best to try and find a band saw.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Margate Tasmania
    Posts
    1,148

    Default



    It is spiral grain as well so you will also get timber movement as it dries.

    I'm thinking only really any good for pen or turning blanks.
    Kev

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Newcastle
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    69
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    1,073

    Default

    yes get a bandsaw mill so you don't waste so much from the thickness of the chainsaw. Or have it milled, though I doubt any miller would touch it. And don't worry about quartering it, the grain is so convoluted that you would be better just getting the best slabs out that you can. Then its a matter of sealing the ends really well, stickering it and strapping it down with lots of weight and drying it slowly away from sun and wind. Beautiful timber, that piece will be stunning.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,794

    Default

    My guess is you don't have access to a bandsawmill but you might have access to a bandsaw?

    If so, that is why you might consider quartering it with a Chainsaw mill so you end up with manageable pieces that can be put through a conventiional bandsaw.

    You won't know what it's like until you open it up so I would cut it in half first and see if the middle is OK. If you want full width slabs I then cut a couple of slabs off each half and then cut up the remaining flitches using a bandsaw.

    By the look of it, the trunk is such that you won't get many or any full length boards from it. Once you have opened it up you might find it better to less than full length boards.

    A 28" bar will lose at least 4 or maybe 5" when placed into a conventional Alaskan mill and you will need a couple of extra/spare inches to mill this sort of wobbly log so your bar will not be long enough to mill the widest slabs. You can still mill it with teh 28" bar but you won't get the widest slabs.

    What cc is your saw and what bar groove width do you have. If you can find it I would look at using pico chain since it makes the narrowest cut but it requires using 0.050" groove bar.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Posts
    708

    Default Olive

    If my woodmizer could swim id do it for ya However the boys are right, no full length boards there so pick your lines for best recovery and dont think too much about it having to be on the quarter. Put plenty of weight on it to dry it as shes gonna move

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lyonville
    Posts
    209

    Default

    I saw a dvd a little while ago where the mill operator/ farmer cut any log with a bend in it at the bend. This meant that he got two short straight logs out of which he milled boards. He said that this method increased their yield significantly.

    He said this was a method that they developed because they had quite a few otherwise almost useless logs which when they were not processed seriously effected the profitability of their farm wood lots.

    Since the log is relatively short would you get more straight boards (even though they are shorter) than if you went for long boards? If you would you can then join them up in a brick work patten that could turn out pretty good.

    Having said all that bear in mind that the example I saw of this method in practice was of small diameter logs which where being turned into flooring and end matched. May not be appropriate for this log or your envisaged project.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Israel
    Posts
    3

    Default The Olivewood Log - quartered

    Well - part one of the deed is done. I cut the log at the bend, quartered the short piece and halved the big. Now to weld up the mill and see what happens. Thanx for your advice all.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gidi View Post
    Well - part one of the deed is done. I cut the log at the bend, quartered the short piece and halved the big. Now to weld up the mill and see what happens. Thanx for your advice all.
    There doesn't look like there are any decent width boards in those pieces so I wouldn't bother making a mill. Just keep breaking it up with your chain saw till you get pieces big enough to use on a bandsaw. Pity.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Gatton, Qld
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    48
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    3,064

    Default

    Weaver, I would say that is just common sense - docking a log at the bend, you don't have to be on a mill long before you realise you can get more from a straight log than a bent one. Wouldn't really think it was much of a method they had developed on the farmers side of things - just common sense.

    Bob, I'm with you on that, doesn't look like she will yield very much, may as well break it down a bit more with that saw of his, then get into it with a bandsaw - pity...
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lyonville
    Posts
    209

    Default

    Well that is the thing about common sense is that it seems pretty obvious and straight forward after its been pointed out or you have had the thought.

    He made the point that most mills would reject the logs rather than cut and mill them. Most mills being concerned about the through put of quality logs where as the farmer/miller was looking to get as much out of what he had.

    That olive logs might produce bits for turning but it does not look like you will get many if any boards.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Daylesford
    Age
    41
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Maybe this is just another woftam.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Israel
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Seeing as I am a complete newbie to milling, I am going to play around as much as I can and do as much 1st hand learning as I can. Whether I get decent sized boards, or just blanks for turning - only one way to find out, I reckon.
    Woftam? possibly, but when you work in front of a computer for a living - any chance to do something new really isn't a waste of time or money. I suppose for a professional woodie it might be, but then, I guess I'm just not that lucky

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Krunchie View Post
    Maybe this is just another woftam.
    Disagree!!! Plenty of pen blanks. tool handles etc. in there.

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