Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Age
    61
    Posts
    2,236

    Default

    A variety of thickness's is always good, some of the smaller branch stuff could be cut at 1" thick and then that should be close to useable in a yr, 50 and 100 thick are also good on suitable sized sections, with your main trunk I would do thus... my preference is to take slabs off paralell to the outside of the trunk until down to within 50 to 60 of the center of the small end, then either flip it over and repeat, if flipping is not an option lift large end up until the bottom bark side is paralell with rails (if cutting with a lucas) and take slabs off, this will give you a wedge shape center slab but that can be fixed later, all this gives you grain that is paralell to the cut edge of slabs /boards. Pete.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    211

    Default

    Hi,

    Thanks everyone for your valued input. To date nothing has happened with the logs as life got in the road, shooting off to Melbourne family matter, ordering two new blades, forklift at Palmerston Mens Shed hydraulics failed and has now just been fixed and now to find the available time. There is a lot of time involved to mill this timber.

    At this stage I have a miller who is going to slab the biggest logs as the onsite mill only has a throat of 760mm so we are a little restricted. We are also setting up stands 300 - 400 high at our shed for the cut timbers. Initially we will have two stacks more to come.

    I still has a zillion questions and I'm sure more when I screw up lol.

    Q1 - stackers I'm trying to organise this however not real sure what to make them out of.
    1. Making the stackers 30 x 20 in size.
    2. Material, we have plenty of pine (rough sawn pine) but feel this will bleed as it's stored on stacks undercover outside and not exactly dry. I also have other pine but this is really shi%.
    3. I was considering cutting some of the smaller logs into stacker strips however feel these will shrink and move all over the place and cause more issues that its worth. Not sure about bleeding guess it will as well.

    Suggestions?

    Q2
    1. I was also looking at cutting some of the logs quartersawn and take the pith out. I feel if I cut these into 25 /30 mm widths and about 2 - 4 meters long these will suit making small boxes, material be a bit more stable as well IE bandsaw and scroll saw boxes?

    Q3
    1. As for borers not sure what to do about them. Termites, the stacks will be on bitumen and have 300 - 400 visual barrier under. To date all our timber outside is on bitumen and have not suffered termites as yet, that 4 years. On the ground that's a matter of days.

    Our method for sanding maybe not perfect however very little sanding is now done inside our shed, all our sanders are mobile units and moved outside if going to be used, all have their own extraction system as well. Maybe not perfect, but much better outside than inside. Small sanding jobs are still inside (pity) however working on a mobile table and then hand sanding will also be outside. Masks to be worn, mind you the latter is harder to manage but getting there.

    Fun and games getting closer just intime for the wet season and humidity --- OH THEY JOY.

    Thanks for your input looking forward to getting into it.

    Brian

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,332

    Default

    Best if stickers are dry from the start, otherwise you are forming a verticle unseasoned column the height of your pack at every sticker interval. I have been using dried Radiata for many years with no staining problems.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    211

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Best if stickers are dry from the start, otherwise you are forming a verticle unseasoned column the height of your pack at every sticker interval. I have been using dried Radiata for many years with no staining problems.
    I kind of figured I would have to look at buying dried timber and cut into stickers - was trying not to spend money - guess it's best to spend a few $$$ now than screw up good timber. Finding dry timbers might be an issue, guess I best start searching. Thanks for the reply.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    4,310

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Best if stickers are dry from the start, otherwise you are forming a verticle unseasoned column the height of your pack at every sticker interval. I have been using dried Radiata for many years with no staining problems.
    Me, too.

    I have also had similar results with MDF and Tas oak stickers. Have almost standardised on MDF as its cheap and little variance in thickness.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    72
    Posts
    10,209

    Default

    My stickers have come from cutting up old hardwood pallets, but softwood pallets would have done equally well. It is not like we hobbyists are going to have wood stacks 6m+ high where the lower planks may well be subject to a degree of compression..

    I can see that MDF would be both stable and consistently sized. The only caveat there is if the stack is prone to getting wet (HMR would be better in that instance.)

    The answer to the sticker question becomes, whatever is stable, easily dimensioned and, most importantly from our point of view, cheap.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. New To Milling, questions to the experts (LM)
    By Slow Cabinets in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 24th January 2012, 09:12 AM
  2. Milling questions, now or wait till autumn and drying.
    By Dean M in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 2nd December 2011, 10:43 AM
  3. Bandsaw milling raintree
    By pjt in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 5th November 2009, 11:39 AM
  4. Questions re felling & milling a Silky Oak in Sydney
    By crozdog in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 25th June 2004, 04:36 PM
  5. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 25th June 2004, 04:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •