Thread: new to milling- treating hoop pine ?

Mill logs within 2 weeks of being fallen in high humidity conditions, stack & separate boards with fillets of timber in a postion out of the elements in good ventilation, seal ends of boards with sealer. I have been told by experienced sawmillers that spraying with mineral turps is also a preventative measure for stopping black / blue stain
Regards inter

Have a look at this thread:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ght=hoop+cliff

Mat mill it into boards quickly as you can - don't let the logs sit around for ages, if they have to sit take the bark off right away.

The boards need some kind of anti fungal spray to stop that mould/fungus occuring, something like the Hylite anti- sap stain will do the trick, but you have to buy it in $600 bucket unless you find someone who has some and will sell a small amount.

Good luck with it

The trees have been down about 9 months.Most of the boards I cut in the last few days are clean and light coloured .Bit of black mold on the edges and a bit of dry rot and a few big borer holes in a few .A lot of the boards dont have any black mold ,dry rot or borer holes .

If I stain them a dark colour and coat them with a clear polyurethane with a mold inhibitor and they still go black quess I.ll just paint them .??

What I'm wondering about is the dry rot and borers.I have noticed untreated painted pine in sem-iexposed spots like verandas seems to turn todust under the paint [dry rot or flying borers ??]

maybe I'm wasting time with the pine .Would campour or flooded gum be more durable ?We have got plenty of flooded gum and camphor and some spotted gum , silky oak , stringy bark .

Thanks for the advice ,I make so many mistakes and wast so much time

Mat, once the timber gets it, the stain will never be covered unless you paint it and then you will probably have to use an oil based primer before painting it to make sure the stain doesn't come through the paint.

Flooded gum is a nice clean timber, very light, easy to work with and if you have a heap of it, I'd be using that. I couldn't get hold of anything else but had been told to stay away from flooded gum - well I used it with great success for my internal framing for the house walls. The heart does tend to split easily so you just need to chuck away the centre 4x4 roughly but otherwise an easy timber to work with after milling, cleans up well on the planer too, takes glues and finishes well. AND especially if you have a hep of it - go for it

thanks Sigidi and all,
looks like its either the flooded gum or the campor .The campor is what we,ve got the most of plus I like getting rid of it.

Anyone built walls out of camphour boards??

Mat - fungus only grows on/in wood when there's enough moisture to support it. Different species can tolerate drier woods, but virtually all growth ceases by around 20% MC. If your boards are still clean, stack & sticker as InterTD6 advises and they should be fine - or send me those clean boards now & I'll save you the worry..

Cheers,

Mat I read an article in an Australian Owner Builder mag where a guy had built his whole house out of Camphor. He picked it up from local farmers who wanted it removed from their paddocks, so he got most of his house timber for the cost of removing it from neighbors properties - very cheap way to build and the house is quite resistant to termites...

Originally Posted by Sigidi

.........a guy had built his whole house out of Camphor............
and the house is quite resistant to termites.....

"Resistant" might be the operative word, Sigidi - I've had the little blighters munch on some Camphor Laurel of mine (that was badly stored - my fault). It was still smelling strongly of Camphor too - maybe the little sods were just hungry?

Cheers,

Yeah, but you wont get any silverfish!!!

Got a mate with a kitchen made from camphor laurel and not a mite in site and you smell it every time you walk in there.