Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 14 of 14
-
4th April 2015, 08:30 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
Motor question on home made Horizontal bandsaw mill.
Evening all, l have the chance to purchase a home made horizontal bandsaw, (takes a 4metre blade) a mate said l can store it on his farm (just have to build a cover).
The guys selling so he can build a chainsaw slabber.
l have seen the said saw in action on a small blackwood log (green timber), it did struggle which caused the blade to drift up and down, but l reckon it had too many teeth (2 or 3tpi) plus the gullet was getting blocked with wet/green saw dust.
It cuts pine and cypress pretty good, l will use it a few times a year as l come across timber - messmate, blackwood etc just need to get good bi-metal blades.(in case of nails/wire etc)
Now the Chinese motor on it, is about 7hp, l was thinking of getting the 10hp electric start diesel for $550+freight or a 16hp electric start petrol $329+freight.
Which would be better do you think, yes both motors are Chinese - so that is a worry, l was told change the oil after running the motor for about 1/2 -1 hr, to get rid of any metal fragments.(hopefully)
The very first thing l do need to do is put up some safety guards, but that is no drama, l know some good retired fitters.
So the basic question is - has anyone used these Chinese motors, diesel vs petrol, which would better for cutting the harder timbers diesel or petrol?
l realise l have to get really good blades, so add something if you like.
Looking forward to your knowledgeable answers.
Regards
Stevo
-
4th April 2015 08:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
5th April 2015, 10:06 AM #2New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Appalachian Mtns.
- Posts
- 4
Get all the power you can afford. You WILL NOT regret it.
First, fill crank case with diesel fuel and crank engine over several times: DO NOT START !! Drain fuel from crank case. Fill with El Cheapo engine oil and start engine. Let it idle for about a minute. Keep changing the oil until it comes out clean w/ no "glitter". Might be 5 oil changes in the 1st 10 minutes of run time before it's clean. Then do a "break in" run of the engine: 1/2 hr @ 1/2 throttle (no load) Change oil again but with good grade oil. It will pay off in the long run. Chinese engines will last a long time if done right from the beginning.
As for blades, I'm not sure what you have available. You'll want to run a lower hook angle due to lower HP. Better lumber and engine performance.
Make sure the blade guide rollers are properly aligned.
Good Luck with the machine
-
5th April 2015, 10:42 AM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
Thank you very much for that sage advice (flushing etc), the reason l asked about diesel VS petrol is the torque factor, would having that low end grunt be better than the higher revving petrol? (slow and steady wins the race), plus no carby.
As for blades there are a few spots to get them from, l'll do a forum search for the best place, there is a bloke in Mount Gambier (S.A) that sells blades, not sure of his prices though.
l thought of say 1 tpi or even wider with your idea of the "lower hook angle"
Cheers
Steve
-
5th April 2015, 10:55 AM #4.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
You haven't said how wide a cut you would like to make.
-
5th April 2015, 12:08 PM #5New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Appalachian Mtns.
- Posts
- 4
Gas or Diesel... no different treatment on engine flush.
Check engine output specs. Chinese diesels and gas both run @ 3600 rpm. A 22hp Chonda Gas has similar torque output as a 20hp Chonda Diesel... 1/2 of the price for the gas engine ($625 gas vs. $1400+ diesel USD) and parts are abundant for the gas engines. Diesel has a more sustained torque curve but engine rpm's directly effect blade SFPM. Low blade speed makes for wavy cuts... among a long list of other factors. Both have +'s and -'s
A good blade speed is around 4500-4700 SFPM for the HP you are looking at.
7/8" tooth spacing is the most common. 1 tpi leaves a rougher/fuzzy finish. 4 deg hook will cut ANYTHING (hard and soft). 7 deg for softer wood if you find the need. Avoid 10 deg blades like the plague ... trust me.
-
5th April 2015, 03:42 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
You haven't said how wide a cut you would like to make
Max Cut width is 900mm.
Gas or Diesel... no different treatment on engine flush.
Check engine output specs. Chinese diesels and gas both run @ 3600 rpm. A 22hp Chonda Gas has similar torque output as a 20hp Chonda Diesel... 1/2 of the price for the gas engine ($625 gas vs. $1400+ diesel USD) and parts are abundant for the gas engines. Diesel has a more sustained torque curve but engine rpm's directly effect blade SFPM. Low blade speed makes for wavy cuts... among a long list of other factors. Both have +'s and -'s
A good blade speed is around 4500-4700 SFPM for the HP you are looking at.
7/8" tooth spacing is the most common. 1 tpi leaves a rougher/fuzzy finish. 4 deg hook will cut ANYTHING (hard and soft). 7 deg for softer wood if you find the need. Avoid 10 deg blades like the plague ... trust me.
Petrol it is.
7/8" equates to 1.1/4tpi i'm guessing or there abouts.
4 deg's sounds the go over here, especially with some of the hardwoods we have.
Thanks again for all your help.
cheers
Stevo
-
5th April 2015, 07:36 PM #7.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
In that case I doubt you'll be max cutting with even a 16HP engine.
The usual rating for engine power V width of cut is between 0.6 HP/in to around 1 HP/in
The lower end is for softwoods and the upper end is for Ozzie type harder woods.
To cut 900 (36") in hardwood without waiting for grass to grow needs something a 30HP engine.
16HP will be good for 20" and the odd 24" cut.
The setup I'm using uses a 1.3" per tooth, 27HP Kohler, 890 mm wide cut and I would not want to go any smaller than this.
-
6th April 2015, 10:46 AM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
Thanks "Bobi", for the that summary, if l do get any big logs ll can get the guy with his chainsaw mill to slab them.
l only want it for the <700mm timber.
Cheers
Stevo
-
6th April 2015, 11:17 AM #9.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
-
6th April 2015, 11:48 AM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
Thanks
Stevo
-
15th April 2015, 10:44 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Emerald, Qld
- Age
- 57
- Posts
- 103
I think you need to be looking more at Blade speed than HP. I have a 13Hp Chonda with a cut of 650 mm in Hardwood. My bandmill works quite well because I have lowered the band wheel RPM to suit the HP. the best piece of advice I received was from the cooks website. I calculated the fpm of my blade to get maximum torque from the HP that I could afford, this gave me a constant blade speed based on the available HP. the link below explains the science behind it. this worked for me, i have a DIY mill that will cut any hardwood I want.
I would suggest you calculate your blade speed, you may not have to buy a new motor, It may jsut mean you change some pulleys! anyway have a look at the link below, it worked for me!!!!
http://www.cookssaw.com/index.php/in...bandwheel-turn
-
16th April 2015, 12:35 AM #12.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
I agree about using an optimum band speed but the motor power/torque used depends what someone considers a reasonable cutting speed
Just about any motor can be set up to drive a band at the the nominally most efficient speed, but that does not necessarily mean that band will even be able to start cutting or cut very fast.
The two other factors required for efficient cutting are
- for the motor to have enough torque to maintain a reasonable cutting speed
- a blade geometry to suit the torque of the motor.
If everything else is optimised a motor with more torque will always out cut one with less.
-
17th April 2015, 12:02 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- South west vic
- Posts
- 343
Newjon and Bob, thank you very much for both inputs, every bit helps.
Just have to buy the bleeder now, SWMBO will have a "pink fit" but l'm sure she'll come around after a decade or so! (MAN - they have long memories)
Cheers
Stevo
-
17th February 2016, 01:45 PM #14Novice
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
- Location
- Inverell NSW 2360
- Posts
- 11
Similar Threads
-
Home-made horizontal borer
By mark david in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 6Last Post: 10th January 2017, 11:13 AM -
another horizontal bandsaw mill build
By szczepan4069 in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 16Last Post: 9th September 2014, 10:34 PM -
Home Made Chainsaw Mill
By wm460 in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNINGReplies: 0Last Post: 3rd January 2011, 09:07 PM -
Home made slabbing mill?
By Burnsy in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 20Last Post: 10th November 2008, 07:33 PM -
Horizontal bandsaw mill
By whitewood in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 15Last Post: 8th June 2007, 08:09 PM