Thread: Newbie CSM advice

Originally Posted by jcge

I've been reading through this forum, and the arborsite forum (incl BobL's CSM 101) and need a bit of advice

I have a small Husqvarna 350 (50cc) with 18" bar that I'm looking to use for milling small (<18") logs. I know that I'll need to replace the bar and chain, and that I'll lose about 6" to the alaskan style mill (which I'll be building) unless I drill the bar (solid tip) or sprocket to gain a bit extra.

Can any one advise where I can buy (and ballpark $) a 24" K095 (Husqvarna small mount) 0.325" bar and suitable (rip?) chain?

I'm open to pursuasion on mounting the bar to the mill, and know that chain swap will be much quuicker if I go in that direction.

I know someone will chip in with the need to buy a bigger (cc) saw, but I'm really trying to understand what's achievable for the existing Husy 350, without toasting it.

I don't anticipate milling a huge number of logs, I have 3 x 16"-18" green silkyoak logs about 4' long which I consider "big" logs (you can stop laughing now....)

This is easily doable with a 50 cc saw.
I'd contact Laurie (aka Sawchain [email protected]) and he will set you up just fine.

If you only intend to mill small logs you could consider using your smaller bar and build what I call a paddle mill, basically an alaskan mill, but with only one connection at the chainsaw end of the bar. See https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...t=64543&page=5 posts 71 and 85 showing Weisyboy's old set-up being used at my place.

BobL - great to hear that you feel the 50cc will handle it, and thanks for the contact details

dei sensai - I hadn't really considered a single sider. I can see how it gives you a few extra inches of cutting length on the bar, but I'm also a bit paranoid on the safety side of things, so I'm nervous about the lack of end guarding. Thanks for the link. I'll do some more reading on the mini mill designs.

I really appreciate your responses

Thanks and regards,
John

I think the double ended chainsaw mills are better for horizontal work such as slabbing or cutting boards, while single ended mills are better for vertical work such as ripping different widths of timber off slabs.

Originally Posted by jcge

BobL - great to hear that you feel the 50cc will handle it, and thanks for the contact details

With a small saw it is critical that the saw is tuned for milling.
Fresh clean fuel - use the lube/petrol ratio as specified by the manufacturer, none of this low ratio "back in my day" stuff
Perform a normal tune and then richen up the H screw to drop the max rpms by ~500 rpm
Keep the chain as sharp as possible, if you can see even a hint of glint on a cutter edge then touch up.
Allow a good couple of minutes of idling when finished to allow the saw to cool down.
If you slope the log the saw should cut almost all by itself, if you have to push hard then somethings wrong.

Thanks for the clarification on single vs double end mills, and for the fuel and tuning tips
All greatly appreciated.
Regards
John

I finally ran the mill that I built. . It just got lost between work and life. The logs are Silky Oak (G. Robusta). BobL, I took your advice and got in contact with Laurie....truly a very helpful gentleman. He set me up with chain and bar and I would not hesitate to recommend him to others. No affiliation on my part, just a very happy customer.

Great to see you getting stuck in

What's with the green edges?

And here's the mill...IMG_1614 (2).jpg Regards John.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

What's with the green edges?

Not really green...more like grey. I'm assuming its just sapwood??? Any advice as to whether I should retain or remove the bark while the timber dries?

My experience with the S.Silky is that it will go mouldy very quick if not stacked rights and the borers just love the sapwood, I would guess the staining on the sapwood is mould. This is one species I personally take the bark and sapwood off.
cheers
Joel

What Joel says. I am used to grey mouldy sapwood, just on my computer it comes out as bright green, so I thought you may have sprayed the mouldy bits with something.

Originally Posted by jcge

And here's the mill...IMG_1614 (2).jpg Regards John.

Hi John,
Where did you get this or did you make it yourself? From plans or in the mind?
Regards
Kryn

Joel & dai sensei - thanks for your comments about the mould and de-barking. I assume I should treat the mould with something (borax?). I greatly appreciate your advice. Thanks John