Thread: quatersawing on a lucas?

I believe the first picture represents true quartersawing, it is not possible to do this with a Lucas

thats what i thought.

so pic 2 is the best method?

yep but you can quater saw nearly all the log

how?

to do the entire log, I cut the first layer of vertical deep's including the rough edge, I use a table saw to trim off the rough edge, same for the middle and then the bottom section, not all boards will be the same width. the 4 in each middle (like in pic 2) will be the same. I never bother cutting this way, I preffer to back saw the top of the log and then cut my first layer all verticals and so on.

so is this right?

if that is right im not trying to be criticle but they are not all quarter sawn. The lighter ones you could just pass off as quarter sawn but my father would string me up if he saw me calling the rest quarter sawn.

but that is as close as can be got with a lucas.

thanks for your help guys.

I recon thats about right, thats as close as a lucas can get to true quartersawing as I understand it. If the logs are large then I think you can go a bit closer to true quartersawing, some logs you can get 2 or 3 layers of vertical just on the top section. I got one out the back that I must get to, I recon its been down for 20 to 30 years, mayby longer, it has been off the ground all that time so I recon I can fit the lucas on it, when I do I'll post some pics.

carl i've had a thought try and stay with me on this one. if you suspend the log with a spike in the heart at either end of log ,run the blade through ,spin the log (like a clock)with the first cut at 1 o'clock. take another pass spin the log and keep going like this. In the end you have as close to a fully qrtr sawn log .with this you get 100% recovery. a few people do this for weather boards they market them as wonky boards down here.(before any one has a crack at me) this is a very simplistic answer,and short on detail. but i recon bobl could knock some kind of jig for such a purpose.

Originally Posted by charlsie

carl i've had a thought try and stay with me on this one. if you suspend the log with a spike in the heart at either end of log ,run the blade through ,spin the log (like a clock)with the first cut at 1 o'clock. take another pass spin the log and keep going like this. In the end you have as close to a fully qrtr sawn log .with this you get 100% recovery. a few people do this for weather boards they market them as wonky boards down here.(before any one has a crack at me) this is a very simplistic answer,and short on detail. but i recon bobl could knock some kind of jig for such a purpose.

Good basic plan - two rollers either side on the bottom (similar to 2/3's of a centre steady) should give the same result, although the log may not turn as well on the centre.

take full marks for the idea

good idea but how do u do the horasontal? the boards would be stuck in the log or tapered.

Hi Carl

What I know about using a Lucas Mill could be written on my thumbnail with a nikko pen. I just wanted to point out that if you figure it out you could open up a new market for yourself with luthiers (those strange people who spend an inordinate amount of time turning timber into stringed musical instruments). I know I’ve been trying to find a nice piece of quartered Aust red cedar and pepperwood (brown beech) for most of the year, but every bugger who cuts it seems to back saw it so that it looks nice (the dogs).

As for the boards being tapered, when you buy raw billets of quartered luthier quality timber they are usually tapered, unless they have been squared up to make them look nice and transport better. This can lead to a bit of wastage, but most of the offcuts from squaring up a billet come in handy for something (if it is soft wood for tops then the wedges you get squaring the billet up can often be used for instruments with carved tops).

Just a thought

Cheers James


P.S your website is getting there... good to see a bit of content in it, may have to buy something soon.

Been away Carl, you have the basic idea for quatersawing and as you have found out, you can't get a log full of quatersawn boards from using a Lucas.

Originally Posted by Feralfelix

Hi Carl

What I know about using a Lucas Mill could be written on my thumbnail with a nikko pen. I just wanted to point out that if you figure it out you could open up a new market for yourself with luthiers (those strange people who spend an inordinate amount of time turning timber into stringed musical instruments). I know I’ve been trying to find a nice piece of quartered Aust red cedar and pepperwood (brown beech) for most of the year, but every bugger who cuts it seems to back saw it so that it looks nice (the dogs).

As for the boards being tapered, when you buy raw billets of quartered luthier quality timber they are usually tapered, unless they have been squared up to make them look nice and transport better. This can lead to a bit of wastage, but most of the offcuts from squaring up a billet come in handy for something (if it is soft wood for tops then the wedges you get squaring the billet up can often be used for instruments with carved tops).

Just a thought

Cheers James


P.S your website is getting there... good to see a bit of content in it, may have to buy something soon.

Part of the reason I have just bought a lucas (6-18) is I'm a very keen and proficient guitarist of a mixture of satriani johnson SRV emmanuel etc and have started building guitars and quartsawn timber is the cut of choice, I also love timber and wish to combine the two and to be able to quatersaw large amounts of timber appealed to me.

I have quite a bit of red cedar along with QLD Maple that Maton uses in the instruments to mill and the info on quateraswing has been great.

James if your after as much red cedar and other species as you can handle give me a p.m.


Shayne (Cairns)

i might quater saw this hoop pine if i get it.

the bloke is talking about me paying for the log now.