Thread: R&D Question

Our Cast wheels have now arrived and we are happy to sell components to anyone wanting to build their own bandsaw.

Wheels are 630mm diameter, cast steel, 6 spoke, 45mm machined surface with a slight curve to the centre.

Taper lock centre with a 50mm shaft diameter. Wheels are fully balanced.

We can supply two wheels at $600 plus GST and freight for the pair. Bands can also be supplied to whatever length you need from $60 to $300 each depending on tips.

They take about 4 weeks from order to have cast and machined.

Shafts, mounts and pullies can also be supplied.

do you have any video / pictures of the mill ?? Do you have a web sight and a price list etc...

i also have ripper b/saw mill ,and find its the best thing for cutting logs . get a fraction of the sawdust ,from slabber and swing blade units . but i cut only cabinet species . cheers bob

Originally Posted by salty72

do you have any video / pictures of the mill ?? Do you have a web sight and a price list etc...

no pics or video yet as we are still putting it all together but are happy to supply components to anyone who wishes to make thier own.

Ours will be a lightweight bs constructed from stainless steel where possible and compatible to our other mills.

components available at the moment are

• 630mm cast and machined wheels
• mounting plates with bearings
• drive and free running shafts
• pullies
• 50mm bands
• frame for 800mm x 275mm mouth
• 13hp petrol engines with clutch
• band guides and adjusters

guards are still being made but will be available soon. bands can be any length so if you want to make a wider mouth we can help with basic information on how too but im sure that if your into building for yourself you will already have learnt the knowledge.

The reason for the 50mm drive shafts is so the mill can handle large horsepower even though we are only using 13hp there is no reason why it cant handle a lot more which would be required for large mouth or higher production speeds.

Wheels and bearings are good for 1000rpm continuous. We will only be using speeds in the low hundreds.

website is www.ecosaw.com

lets know whou have some pics and prices , cheers bob

Further to the development.

As the Drive wheel is fixed and all other adjustments are made against this would simple shims or a fine thread be best???

Both have there plus and minum.

Even with the best thread and locking system can still work their way out of adjustment when any vibration occurs where as the shim is fixed in size.

The problem with shims is we need to supply a number of thickness and although fixed when applied take a lot longer to setup and would need adjustment with wear.

The non-drive wheel currently has four adjustments needed - wheel alighnment, tension, vertical and horizontal.

Shims make for a cheaper bandsaw, thread allows future computer control !!!

thanks

arthur

I think thread is the go, it'd be painful out on the job if you needed more shims.

Therefore the manufacturer may be criticised for spoiling an otherwise good design

i think threads . sometimes you need adjustments to machines that were never planed for . have put off a bandsaw mill at present as bought my old lucas saw back ,to do some urgent work ,on a few logs .lets know how your bandsaw goes . cheers bob

thanks

thread is more acurate but needs to be kept an eye on both for the finished product and the safety. Its all down to what the customer will pay for.

I have been contemplating a torque guage as well for the band tension but there goes another $600. However it makes it easier for the operator to keep the band in the correct tension as you can see at a glance if there is an adjustment required. Would also offset the cost with band life but when your the customer who want to penny pinch now the cost is most important or we would all be buying the best possible not just what will do the job!!!

Of course we could just have the mill totally computer controlled and take that part away from the operator but who would pay another $30K for that when a good operator is one with the equipment???

there shouldnt be any trouble with a fine treaded bolt with a locking nut. if you are woried put one either side. shims would be a basturd.

as for the tention why not a setup like a fish skales with a large spring so when it tention lessens the gauge moves back. look at a pair of fish scales and youll understand what i mean. be a lot cheeper and is all thats needed.

Carl

Fishscales now theres an idea.

Problem with a set sping is each type of band uses different types of steel and will require a different tension for optimum setting, hence the thought of using a guage.

We can then give you a tension setting for the band we supply. Initially this adjustment will be by screw but we may use a hydraulic ram as a spring as this would give an adjustable range of spring tensions.

thanks again for the feed back

arthur

as with fish scales you could have the tention weight marked on the gauge and it could be adjusted for diferent blades and timbers. the same unit could be used on the hydrolic ram version just replace the hand tentioner with a ram o winch and motor.

ps: i want 10%