Thread: Large Red Oak (and questions)

Originally Posted by Handcuff

Hey all,
First post, so please bear with me.

A friend of mine came to me asking for help with a Red Oak that had fallen on his property. An arborist recently said it was one of the oldest still standing (not the oldest, but definitely an old one). The diameter of the base is in the 5'5 to 6'0 range. He has turned as many of the branches as he can into firewood, but can't do anything with the base or the larger limbs. I'd really like to turn this into some lumber for some built-ins in the new house...however, I haven't ever cut timber into lumber before.

Additionally, I have another friend with a ~5ft diameter Poplar that came down a few weeks ago in the storm, and he said I could have any of it I wanted.

I have a Stihl MS 880 with a 47" bar, and a standard Stihl chain on it (I also have a 30" bar/chain). I am looking at going with an Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, probably from Panther unless someone has different recommendations and reasons.

I'd like any advice on things to be aware of, tricks that I may find helpful, etc. The tree is too big to move (you can find a video of the beast at http//youtu.be/DX2DNx71esM/ or additional pictures at handcuff's Photos | SmugMug )

My biggest concerns are that this is on a hill (I don't want it rolling down) and that it's tall enough that approaching it from the top will present a challenge (from what I've read/seen online).

Any suggestions on things such as:
the proper ripping chain to get
how to make the first cut
Any additional 'starting' ideas (most of the videos/examples show a nice, circular log sitting on a stand and ready to go...that's not my situation)
How to 'squeeze' the size down to fit a 47 inch bar (current diameter where I'm attacking will be ~5 ft)
Where to go to get some finish-milling done (and what I should look to pay). I'd like to trade excess lumber for finish milling work, but don't know of local shops that will do that (yet).
any other advice you may have...

I appreciate it.
Thanks,
-Scott

I run with a mate a Stihl 084 with an 84 inch bar and granberg style milling chain. The bar and chain were purchased from sawchain, a member of this forum. He was very well priced and very knowledgeable. The chain is heaps quicker than full comp Carlton chain, especially in larger timber.

As far as milling, you would be better off with a bar and chain big enough for the log. If you can't do that though, try and roll the log so that you have the smallest sides going straight up. Once you've done this, you could free-hand cut the sides off but this will not be neat and your slabs will be cut smaller again after they're cut. When your doing your first cut, make sure that your guide is level.

If you haven't milled before that is one hell of a log to start on. If you can, try and mill a few smaller ones first to maximize the value of the timber and minimize waste.

A log that size is a big ask for a chainsaw mill of any description. I feel you would need to break it down to a more manageable size first.

You need to chock the log securely to ensure it does roll away or worse roll on top of you.

I would seek out some help from local people for this one. You are a bit far away for us to offer much practical assistence.

Regards
Paul

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I'm somewhat intimidated by the size of the log also, but a couple things have led me to be willing to tackle it.

1. First, the tree gets smaller towards the "top", which is where I would start. The area I'm starting is more 'cluttered' but isn't as big (about 2 ft diameter) branches.
2. Second, I don't have to take all of it. Whatever isn't taken will be removed by a crew and turned into firewood.
3. Third, my friend wants it off his property almost immediately. I have a couple other places where the trees are smaller/straighter, but I only have nights/weekends available and the guy wants it moved within the next couple of weeks ... and I'm currently waiting for the Alaskan Saw Mill to arrive. I'd like to practice on some other logs that are easier first, but don't think I've got the time.

My thought was to start at the top of the tree and work my way to the trunk...if I get somewhere that I can't do the work safely or where my equipment isn't proper, then to stop and say, "That's as much as I can take." I'd really like to get at least one 2-3 inch "cookie" cut from low on the trunk, though.

I am trying to figure out how to secure a ladder to the top of the logs for the initial rail/first cut, and to find out what sized ladder I may need (I have a 40 ft extension ladder, but don't know if that's too long or not). Is a ladder the right thing to use?

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to put a remote trigger on the chainsaw and mill, so I can pull the trigger while holding the mill rather than having my hand on the chainsaw handle...I saw a bracket system with a cable in some image, recently, but didn't mark it. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks again,
-Scott

re remote handle see if you can find a second hand handle off a stihl brushcutter or polesaw or similar mount on mill you can use stop switch as well

Scott

Another suggestion is BobL's switch. Have a look at the following (post #3 I think it was)

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/wh...vented-133650/

I am still of the opinion, without wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, that this is a very ambitious project. It is the type of job that would be ideally suited to a Lucas Mill, which you would be able to set up over the top of the log (with a few improvisations).

Regards
Paul

I know that it is not exactly considered appropriate to refer people away from this site but if you go to this thread on the Arboristsite website you will get a lot more specialized info on chainsaw milling. You will see I post there under the same user name as here and you will be able to access a lot more local (to the USA) knowledge.

Originally Posted by Handcuff

I am trying to figure out how to secure a ladder to the top of the logs for the initial rail/first cut, and to find out what sized ladder I may need (I have a 40 ft extension ladder, but don't know if that's too long or not). Is a ladder the right thing to use?

A ladder works but a dedicated set of "log rails" consisting of a pair of unistrut channel held together by a set of all threads is better adjustable width-wise to suit different width logs than a ladder. You will see this in the thread I referred to above and it also shows how to hold the log rails onto logs.

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to put a remote trigger on the chainsaw and mill, so I can pull the trigger while holding the mill rather than having my hand on the chainsaw handle...I saw a bracket system with a cable in some image, recently, but didn't mark it. Anyone have any ideas?

One of mine uses a motorcycle throttle and it is by far the best remote throttle I have ever used and seen. Other designs I have made use bicycle brake levers and lawn mower throttle levers. If you do a search for "remote throttle" on the above website you will see about a half different designs.

The most critical thing about milling up logs that big is being able to sharpen and set up the chain correctly so that saw self feeds and you do not have to push the saw anywhere near as much as otherwise. If you don't know about progressive raker setting then I strongly recommend finding out about this. On the arboristsite there is a sticky thread in the HotSaws/sharpening section on progressive sharpening. See here.

Bob

Thanks for chipping in with the info. I am well out of my depth with chainsaw mills.

Regards
Paul