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  1. #1
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    Default reducing stress in hardwood logs.

    an elderly sawmiller told me that he would not proccess a log unless it has been in the yard for at least 6 months, having trialled this proccess for the last 10 years, I have to agree, it reduces stress, this for eucalpt/gums, can say the same for radiata pine as well, cannot speak for other species. Another trick for large gums is to ring bark them, let them die then droppem, mill staight away, no movement in boards at all, same goes for dead standing trees. this is an easy way to cut timber. another way to minimise movement in logs is to provide ample log bearers and good chunky rough saw wedges, to easy to take a short cut here but not woth the hassle of logs moving half way thru milling not to mention the wastage, wedges stay in firm if they have a nice rough finish.

    cheers John

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  3. #2
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    I have found that this is true for one species in particular around here, bloodwood, the big drawback about leaving logs for months is ants drag dirt & sand deep inside them along heart or star shakes which is murder on keeping saws sharp
    Regards inter

  4. #3
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    Most of my logs are left for 6-12 months before milling simply for lack of time to get to them earlier. I've not noticed any huge difference between fresh and slightly older logs though. The biggest influences on tension in my experience are the size of the log (bigger=less tension) and the location they were grown in (good spot =fast growth =more stress). Some species are also much more prone to growth stress and falling stress than others.
    Cheers,
    Craig

  5. #4
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    I agree with Craig, I've had logs stay 8 months before cutting, some have been delivered and the timber has been dressed and in place a week after being pushed over?? I don't think there is a hard and fast rule about leaving any/all logs to reduce tension, as has been mentioned seems dependent upon species too
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  6. #5
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    inter, have not got the ant problem here,I know there is a chemical that you can get from a rural supplier that you dilute down with water and spray around your house to stop insects, killsem dead , can't see why it would'nt work around a log.I t is the same stuff they sell to pest controllers. I'll post the name of it here mon when I am back at work where I wrote the name of it down,
    Sidgi, I am speaking for Tas species only

    cheers John

  7. #6
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    John, having said that I can only talk about SEQld species too. It amazes me that even the same species grown in Qld is stronger than if grown in NSW - When doing my grading course, the instructor was talking about grading changes which may bring in a queensland classification for hardwoods as apparently Qld hardwoods are stronger compared to their southern counterparts. I haven't been able to test this myself...
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  8. #7
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    I imagine timbers would have differnt gradings accross the states. How long does the grading couse take ? The one they run down here only takes a day. I did think it would be worth doing if I can find the time. Sigidi and Craig, have you tryed the ringbarking proccess that I mentioned ?

  9. #8
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    Sigidi, who was the organisation you did the Grading course with was It QLD DPI, or someone else.

    Shayne

  10. #9
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    Grading course, took 3 days for hardwood and 3 for softwood around $200 each course I seem to remember about 4-5 years ago.

    Who with - a Brissy based mob called FITEC, you'll find them under that name online.

    Ringbarking - haven't been able to get that intimate with my logs, normally they turn up or I get them after they've been pushed, so never had the chance to ringbark
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  11. #10
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    If anyone's interested, Solfac Pro is the name of a outdoor surface spray for killing insects, I know it works really well, I couldn't see why it wouldn't work keeping ants out of logs that are waiting to be milled.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyroberts View Post
    If anyone's interested, Solfac Pro is the name of a outdoor surface spray for killing insects, I know it works really well, I couldn't see why it wouldn't work keeping ants out of logs that are waiting to be milled.
    Just be aware that if you apply that stuff to your wood you should not burn it. From the MSDS sheets supplied by Bayer, Solfac Pro decomposes to HCl and Hydrogen cyanide when burnt.

  13. #12
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    not to mention the fact that you will be bathed in the treated sawdust when milling, no thanks
    sigidi, what are those stronger species?
    regards inter
    ps I have just milled some tallowood that had been fallen & left in the bush 4 years ago & it still had a lot of tension

  14. #13
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    Apparently any species grown here when compared to out of state species is stronger, so a piece of spotted gum up here when compared to a piece of spotty down south, when proof loaded, handles a higher load. Dunno if it's hearsay or not, just what was thrown around during our course???
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  15. #14
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    could the tallow wood have tension becauce it was just left on the ground, I imagine it would unless it was docked up and lifted of the ground for 6 months

  16. #15
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    hadn't put much thought into the saftey issues with the Solfac, might not be such a good idea, dont think I would like to get covered in it, what was this thread about again ?

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