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Thread: Remote milling throttle for 880
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7th February 2009, 07:47 PM #1.
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Remote milling throttle for 880
The first BIL mill (using a Stihl 076 chainsaw) remote throttle looked like this
handle.jpg Side2.jpg triggertop.jpg Trigside.jpg Lug.jpgThen the throttle was moved to the wrap bar and it ooked like this
Throttle.JPG
Now, following an idea dropped by a bloke in another forum, for the 880 it looks like this!
top.jpg
Yep - it's a motorcycle throttle complete with remote kill switch and a throttle lock.
Yes the red grip clashes violently with Stihl orange but I think that is a good thing - it says watch out!
What I wanted was something that was not completely permanent because there would be occasions when I might wish to remove the remote throttle and use the 880 as a regular saw.
The throttle cost $20 from a MC wrecker. Finding a suitable linking point on the 880 proved very tricky and I tried many different combinations. Essentially all the exposed and accessible actions are "push" whereas cables need a "pull" and these are all blocked by the airfilter/carby housing and I did not really want to mangle a lot of plastic to get this working. Finally after staring and fiddling for hours I located a point under/above the trigger.
Lug.jpg
To access this point I had to get inside the top of the trigger. I unscrewed the trigger cover on the handle unclipped the top trigger linkage, and cut a small slit with a hacksaw and drilled a hole at the top of the trigger so the cable an lug can sit so.
The cable follows the pathway show to the ally bracket which supports the main cable adjustment as show. The bracket is held in place by a 3 mm allen bolt that passes through the housing and has a nyloc on the other side.
Cablepath.jpg
The regular trigger is still very accessible
Here is the cable bracket in better lighting. The cable passes thru a grommeted hole in the handle underneath the saw and over to the handle.
Bottom.jpg
Here you can also see the remote kill switch wiring which utilizes a small audio plug and connects in parallel with the kill switch inside the airfilter/carby area. The mini audio plug was used so that the remote throttle could easily be removed if required.
Backview.jpg
Throttle lock is Small knurled brass knob - really easy to set and unset.
Stop.jpg Throttleset.jpg
Some more pics.
wholemill.jpg top2.jpg Mill-side.jpgLast edited by BobL; 16th April 2022 at 10:00 AM.
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7th February 2009 07:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th February 2009, 07:56 PM #2.
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88o remote throttle part 2
Here you can see the cable path underneath the saw. This was the shortest cable I could find. If the cable is too short and bent too severely the cable will not move smoothly.
Another top view.
The knurled brass knob is the throttle lock.
I made a small brass block with a 5 mm threaded hole that sits in a convenient recess inside the throttle handle and drilled a hole in the alloy throttle housing so that the threaded hole could be accessed externally . The throttle lock is basically a 5mm screw that passes thru the ally housing and threads into the brass block and bites into the throttle holding it in place. I will probably replace the knob with a lever although the knob is quite easy to use as the throttle setting can be held with the palm heel while the fingers lock the throttle.
The action is very short - about 1/8 turn to go WOT. The wrist action is also reversed from a MC - one has to roll the wrist forward. I thought it might be awkward especially as I have ridden a MC for many years. However, being the left hand it feels quite natural.
The kill switch is conveniently located and accessible - better than haveing to reach down and fumble for the switch near the regular trigger.
And here is the whole mill shot.
Next - the clutch cover.
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7th February 2009, 11:24 PM #3
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8th February 2009, 02:15 AM #4Banned
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Hi BobL,
Yeah, some got it, some don't...! no ones fault, huh?
Can you put a turbo on it?, now seriously, that is going to be a never ending project, I can just see it...! I could probably guess some of the future modifications the machine will endure but, I will keep my mouth shut, I don't want to spoil the surprise and the excitement, as this machine has a long way to go yet, I bet you...!right?
Very nicely thought and executed.
Cheers
RBTCO
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8th February 2009, 11:10 AM #5.
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8th February 2009, 12:59 PM #6
Admit it Bob, You're trying to build a Harley
Carlton chain; GB Forestry Equipment; GB standard & xtra long guide bars; custom milling chain; Trilink & Sabre chain & bars. 0413 392960
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8th February 2009, 01:15 PM #7.
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8th February 2009, 03:53 PM #8
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8th February 2009, 04:28 PM #9.
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8th March 2009, 10:28 AM #10
Hi BobL, Just a question on why you use the frame on top of the log and not just put the mill frame on the log, does it make it easier to push along?.
I have a westford mill with an 880 magnum, I made a frame to do the first cut then I put the mill on the log, some times the mill gets stuck on the teeth marks but not to bad tho.
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8th March 2009, 01:07 PM #11
good looking setup Bobl
Yes a good looking rig Bob,
I too like to use the rail on the log for each cut as I find it gives a smoother cut and the start and finsh ends of the log/slab gets a bit too ragged if I don't use the rail.
The mill tends to be only half on at the start and half off at the finish and unless u get it lined up exactly right the slab will be low or high on the ends.
If the rail hangs over the ends by enuff it allows u to pick it up and place it on the rail b4 u actually start a cut, I find it the best at the finish when after a long hard cut the saw can be pushed out of the cut onto the end of the rail, it allows u a second or two to rest b4 lifting saw off the rail.
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8th March 2009, 06:44 PM #12.
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yep they are the main reasons, and another related one is as follows
To maximise the cutting width using my 076 on the BIL mill I removed the chain brake (this gives me 39.5' of cut from a 42" bar and 57.5" of cut from a 60" bar. If I don't use log rails I have to start the saw on the ground, or a log or preferably from my portable service table.
Then I have to carry a 33 kg , mill plus a running CS and 60" bar, from the service table to the log. Although I do it sometimes, without a chain brake on I'm kinda nervous about this. I always arrange my log rails to over hang the log by a couple of feet so I can perch the mill on the rails, then I start the saw, let it warm up for 10 seconds and then start the cut.
With my 880 I have decided to leave the chain brake on and lose another inch of cut.
It's compact but it works.
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8th March 2009, 07:12 PM #13
I cut my logs a bit thicker to allow for resawing and planing, ( which I haven`t done yet), I also took off the log grippers but left the brake on maybe gives an extra inch of cutting.
It all looks good tho, Bob
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10th March 2009, 03:16 AM #14
I have noticed at times the chain brake handle gets in the way but never thought about taking it off, I'm assuming Bob u only took off the handle but left the rest of the brake assembly intact?
THis could be your next mod... design build a lever/handle that was positioned off to the side of the engine and not in front as normal, better still would be a lever that u sqeezed to disengage brake that was part of a handgrip just like a motorbike clutch lever or front brake, this would need to be a push pull setup tho??? ok to sqeeze but would need to push to operate brake, cable no good, unless it was a spring return, so... sqeeze handle, brake off...let handle go spring returns brake on, this tho might make your hand ache from hanging onto lever against spring force, perhaps a detent strong enuff to resist return spring but slight push would bring brake on, the system may fuction better with a solid rod and not a cable, but anyway you get the drift off the idea Bob?? Something to think about in your meetings
Peter
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10th March 2009, 10:33 AM #15.
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On the 076 the whole chain brake mechanism is in the clutch cover. I had to remove the clutch cover because the BIL mill bolts direct to the bar bolts.
Once the 076 clutch cover goes the chain brake handle is redundant.
On the 880 the brake is inboard and the clutch cover can be removed without affecting the brake. I haven't made the new clutch cover for the 880 + BIL mill setup, maybe next weekend.
THis could be your next mod... design build a lever/handle that was positioned off to the side of the engine and not in front as normal, better still would be a lever that u sqeezed to disengage brake that was part of a handgrip just like a motorbike clutch lever or front brake, this would need to be a push pull setup tho??? . . . . .
The brake handle on the 880 stays on, but the location of my Aux throttle and higher handles on my mill also means I can use the area of the top handle and brake handle as a physical leaning point during milling. Usually I lean on it with my left tknee on small logs or my hip with big logs. Back in Jan when I milling with Hud's 3120 Husky - (chain brake left on) a couple of times I leaned on the saw with my knee and ended up hitting the chain brake when the saw was WOT - not a good thing to be doing too often.
Because I will use the 880 99% of the time on the mill I was thinking of removing the brake handle and making a smaller stubbier brake handle that would only stick up from the side and not across the top. That way I would not hit the regular brake handle when leaning. However, the brake handle itself is integral with the brake mechanism, ie the end of the brake handle that is inside the brake mechanism is quite a complex beastie with a couple of cam lobes and bumps. I could probably make a stubby one out of ally, but the simplest solution is to cut down the existing handle to suit since I do not need the full chain brake handle for kickback purposes. That way I could still activate it when I move around a running mill but don't need to worry about it when I lean on the mill.
I will probably do this after I run the saw in. I want to run about 5 tank fulls of fuel through the saw in regular cross cutting mode before using it in the mill. What I also do in these situations is I will buy another regular brake handle and keep it as a spare in case I want to use the saw in its standard format.
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