Thread: resawing flitches

what timebr are you cutting?

thats teh only way to get decent stright timber unless teh logs are huge (or talowwood).

Originally Posted by weisyboy

what timebr are you cutting?

thats teh only way to get decent stright timber unless teh logs are huge (or talowwood).

That is flooded gum, here tallowood has as much tension as any other timber, I have cut logs up to 1200 in diameter with no signs of tension getting any less. It is a high rainfall area here so everything grows quickly & ends up being "poppy"
regards inter

i thaught it was.

we are the opposite here most of the logs are lucky to get over 800mm diamiter even on teh creek flats.

i cut some talowwood a few months back logs were 1m diamiter at teh but and 4x2s have les than 5mm spring and bow over 6m lengths. most stayed compleatly streight.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i thaught it was.

we are the opposite here most of the logs are lucky to get over 800mm diamiter even on teh creek flats.

i cut some talowwood a few months back logs were 1m diamiter at teh but and 4x2s have les than 5mm spring and bow over 6m lengths. most stayed compleatly streight.

If I'm lucky 1 in 10 logs might be like that, as soon as I take some of the quarter out, thats when the timber will show how much it will move away from the heart & that is how much I have to cut the flitch oversize + 10mm each way.
regards inter

I reckon I must be a bloody legend - when I read Carl's post asking about what timber it was I looked at the pics again and said flooded gum!!! YEAH!!!

I've found a few times I have re-sawn, but more often than not, the grading rules allow a lot of movement (especially in longer boards) Carl your mentioned 6m 4x2's are allowed 45mm of movement in the 100mm dimension and 60mm of movement in the 50mm dimension. I know it sounds a huge amount and looks even worse, but that is dead easy to straighten. What I don't like is trying to work with bloody 4x4's - get this a 3.6m 4x4 can pull up to 20mm either way and still be okay???? I certainly don't like going to the grading limit's on 4x4's

Originally Posted by Sigidi

I reckon I must be a bloody legend - when I read Carl's post asking about what timber it was I looked at the pics again and said flooded gum!!! YEAH!!!

I've found a few times I have re-sawn, but more often than not, the grading rules allow a lot of movement (especially in longer boards) Carl your mentioned 6m 4x2's are allowed 45mm of movement in the 100mm dimension and 60mm of movement in the 50mm dimension. I know it sounds a huge amount and looks even worse, but that is dead easy to straighten. What I don't like is trying to work with bloody 4x4's - get this a 3.6m 4x4 can pull up to 20mm either way and still be okay???? I certainly don't like going to the grading limit's on 4x4's

Thats the reason for the post so you can produce straight timber & not have the end product looking like the Ettamogah pub even though the grading rules may allow it & you cant cripple studs at openings or load bearing points, from memory only 1 in 4 studs can be crippled in a row.
regards inter

Inter, by cripple, R u talking about straightening? Like when u cut the stud on the bow in side and then insert a wedge into the cut to force the stud straight. Does that 1 in 4 apply if u add fishplates to the side of the stud at the cut point?
Peter.

Peter exactly what you said is 'crippling' a stud, you can do it with joists, rafters, bearers etc, just as Inter said, there are limits to how much and where.

Inter, on re-sawing, I've tried re-sawing in the past, but found it brings about it's own problems. As an example I had some posts I wanted to be in a very noticeable location (and only had smaller diameter logs) so wanted them looking really good, I cut them 1" oversize to be able to re-saw, no problems with that, got trimmed up and looked great. I stacked up and strapped them, with other timber and when it came time to use them found they had pulled just as bad and they had wicked sloping grain in the places I had re-sawn.

So I'm not totally sold on re-sawing, I understand it works don't get me wrong, it's just been my experience that it is a lot of extra hassle and the product in this instance wasn't any better??? I'd rather get it off the log as good as I can first - even if that means losing recovery (after all getting high recovery percentages, but unusable timber isn't my cup of tea)

Originally Posted by pjt

Inter, by cripple, R u talking about straightening? Like when u cut the stud on the bow in side and then insert a wedge into the cut to force the stud straight. Does that 1 in 4 apply if u add fishplates to the side of the stud at the cut point?
Peter.

Yes its stud straightening, all studs that are cut for straightening need cleats / batten nailed each side, the wedge is optional & has no strength value. I dont have the latest standard but remember its around that ratio, so I may not be totally correct on that number.
regards inter

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Inter, on re-sawing, I've tried re-sawing in the past, but found it brings about it's own problems. As an example I had some posts I wanted to be in a very noticeable location (and only had smaller diameter logs) so wanted them looking really good, I cut them 1" oversize to be able to re-saw, no problems with that, got trimmed up and looked great. I stacked up and strapped them, with other timber and when it came time to use them found they had pulled just as bad and they had wicked sloping grain in the places I had re-sawn.

So I'm not totally sold on re-sawing, I understand it works don't get me wrong, it's just been my experience that it is a lot of extra hassle and the product in this instance wasn't any better??? I'd rather get it off the log as good as I can first - even if that means losing recovery (after all getting high recovery percentages, but unusable timber isn't my cup of tea)

I will give you a for instance, all my roof beams which are backsawn 3600mm X 230mm X 75mm, when I cut the flitches for them off the log, they moved 20 to 30 mm away from the heart at each end which was from logs with a fair bit of tension & if I had cut those beams to the exact size off the log, 20 to 30mm of bow would have been in those beams, impossible to straighten. resawing from a oversize flitch in depth (sometimes + 2 beams deep) the worst beam out of bow was about 5mm max after being stacked in the weather with no protection. Once the logs have too much tension & " poppy "( say cracks 10mm wide at the log ends ) the sawn timber will still move after sawing, probably only a 1/3 as much if it was sawn straight from the log though. You mentioned in a previous post that you cut 20 something posts & only 12 were good enough to use, if you had resawn them from oversize flitches they all would have been usable. It does take a lot to get used to & become quick at resawing, I cut 0.4m3 of studs by myself in 5 hours recently which is not too bad. But thats after a lot of trial & error.
regards inter

Originally Posted by InterTD6

... You mentioned in a previous post that you cut 20 something posts & only 12 were good enough to use, if you had resawn them from oversize flitches they all would have been usable. It does take a lot to get used to & become quick at resawing, I cut 0.4m3 of studs by myself in 5 hours recently which is not too bad. But thats after a lot of trial & error.
regards inter

hmmmm.... food for thought.....