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Thread: Silky Oak

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Default Silky Oak

    Hello, I'm not much of a contributor to this forum, but I do subscribe to about 10 threads and read them every day and there's a lot of admiration of some very clever people out there.

    A friend of mine is cutting down a silky oak tree and he said that I can have it. What I would like to know is what do I do with it in preparedness to letting it dry out. Do I paint the ends (with what?), do I saw it up into boards (how thick and are they painted all over?), do I let it dry outside or inside, and would anyone know for how long, depending on the thickness I suppose, it would take to dry out. What moisture percentage does it need to be before it can be used. Can the branches be milled as well and used as small stock?

    Sorry about so many questions but being a novice at woodwork I would like some help from the experts. I am retiring in the next year or two so it would be nice to look forward to a project with some nice timber to work with. Years ago we bought some silky oak chairs along with a writing desk and I really like the look and feel of it. Also does anyone have much experience working with silky oak. Hard, easy, crappy?

    Thank you for reading.

    Marty

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stompa View Post
    A friend of mine is cutting down a silky oak tree and he said that I can have it. What I would like to know is what do I do with it in preparedness to letting it dry out. Do I paint the ends (with what?)
    "End Check" from Carbatec or similar is the best thing to use, but if you are a cheapskate like me just 3 coats of old plastic house paint. No, the milled timber should not painted all over or it will take twice as long to dry.

    do I saw it up into boards (how thick and are they painted all over?),
    I would mill it now into sizes that suit you, allowing 25% for shinkage and warping. If you are unsure mill it into 50 mm thick slabs. Stack it on level blocks at least 250 mm above the ground and space each slab with a 20 - 25 mm thick strips of wood placed a maximum of 600 mm apart. If you have a something heavy (some concrete slabs) you can put on top that is a good idea.

    do I let it dry outside or inside
    Either is fine, out of the weather (direct sun) is best.

    and would anyone know for how long, depending on the thickness I suppose, it would take to dry out.
    A rule of thumb is 1" of thickness per year.

    What moisture percentage does it need to be before it can be used.
    It should be in equilibrium with it's surroundings - so get hold of a moisture meter and make sure its the same or within a % or 2 of a similar wood that has been around in your neck of the woods for a few years.

    Can the branches be milled as well and used as small stock?
    Yes, but expect greater losses due to splitting/movement etc.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Mapleman

  5. #4
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    Tyndale, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Is this a timber that should be treated with Borax to stop it turning into powder? I can remember a friend of mine loosing quite a bit of his timber many years back to the beetle.

  6. #5
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    the sapwood will be destroyed by borers if not treated but the sapwood inst normally used anyhow.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by weisyboy View Post
    the sapwood will be destroyed by borers if not treated but the sapwood inst normally used anyhow.
    Have seen borers destroy the heartwood of Southern Silky, as well the sapwood.and will continue to do so until the timber is nearly dry,They feed off the fungai that grow on the walls of 'burrows' or'tunnels' that they make,not the actual wood itself,so give the sawn product a proper spray.Borers are sensitive to chemicals,so a insecticide surface spray will do the job,for a number of months
    Mapleman

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