Thread: What size slabbing bar for a husky 395

Originally Posted by Gordo78

lets say 5 (You're right, there's every chance it will turn into 50 over the next 20 years, but i don't see me neeeding more than 5 any time soon)
1.1m, this is the size of my current table and anything wider due to the log tapering, i will either trim the sides off first or worse case, cut the last bit of it with a jig of some sort, where there is a will, there is a way. i've got a log that is 1.9m across that is begging to be slabbed, but thats a whole new project.

I always recommend about 100 mm of spare cutting with to allow for all sorts of probelms.
A 395 should be able to make 5 cuts 1.2m wide cut with a 54" bar but there won't be much difference in running a 54 and 60" that you might as well get a 60".

as for modifying a rip chain, i know little about them as im just starting out, but if i ran less teeth like a skip tooth, i thought it would help due to less cutting teeth

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There's swings and round abouts using skip. It can lighten the load on a saw, but then it will go blunt faster.

As well as the number of cutters in the cut, the load on a saw depends on the depth of cut of each chain pass which is in turn determined by the chain hook and the raker depth. Shallower hook angles and higher rakers will mean the chain grabs less wood so these are other ways of controlling saw load.
These two factors can easily be varied to control the load for a specific width of cut
Unfortunately there are no straight up formulas and you have to try things for yourself.

please forgive any silly questions, like i said, i'm new to chainsaw milling - CSM cuts to date = 1.

No worries - keep asking.

BTW I would strongly recommend getting smaller logs up of the ground and placing them on a slope so there is less pushing involved.

Originally Posted by BobL

".

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There's swings and round abouts using skip. It can lighten the load on a saw, but then it will go blunt faster.

As well as the number of cutters in the cut, the load on a saw depends on the depth of cut of each chain pass which is in turn determined by the chain hook and the raker depth. Shallower hook angles and higher rakers will mean the chain grabs less wood so these are other ways of controlling saw load.
These two factors can easily be varied to control the load for a specific width of cut
Unfortunately there are no straight up formulas and you have to try things for yourself.

one last question about chain sizes if you all don't mind. What are the pros and cons of .404 vs 3/8 if i want to run it on the 60" bar?

For the 60" bar, at the moment i'm leaning towards 3/8 in full compliment, but based on gut feel as opposed to experience.

Originally Posted by Gordo78

one last question about chain sizes if you all don't mind. What are the pros and cons of .404 vs 3/8 if i want to run it on the 60" bar?

404 has 10% fewer cutters per unit length so slightly less sharpening required.

3/8 has a 10% narrower kerf so slightly less load on the saw (you'll need any reduction you can get with the 394 on a 60" bar)

404 is a bit more rugged than 3/8.

404 is taller so it holds more sawdust between the cutters and hence is able to clear sawdust better.

60" bar and chain turned up this morning. It's ridiculously big. and I love it.................

What chain did you end up going for?

Originally Posted by dai sensei

What chain did you end up going for?

I ended up getting the 404 skip. this is my first dedicated slabbing bar so I've nothing to compare it to and figured I'd start with this one and maybe try a 3/8 on the next bar.