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Thread: slabbing/slicing?
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2nd June 2007, 03:28 PM #1
slabbing/slicing?
OK got a problem with this slabbing business, have access to huge stack of recently droped redgum TREES (ie read big) and sugar gum.
If I made a mill or slabber or whatever its cut say 50-100 mm thick, then stacked a couple of years to dry and then if I want to make it into panels which way do I cut it ie across the width of the slab or cut the depth. I hope this makes sense.
I wont be cutting anything over 1.5m dia so whats the best/easiest/most economical to buyor make.
cheers TonyI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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2nd June 2007, 05:58 PM #2
Ahhhm, no, I'm not with you.
Your mill will adjust to allow for diffeent thickness in slabs.
I guess you mean if you take one 50mm thick slab, which way do you cut it to get some bookmatched panels cabinet doors. Am I right, or am I off with the pixies?Boring signature time again!
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2nd June 2007, 06:56 PM #3
Outback your not with the faries your bang on the knocker.
On further reading I think a mill takes slabs/slices off a tree log on a horizontal plane while a slabber can cut both vertical and horozontal. Correct?
TonyI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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2nd June 2007, 07:25 PM #4
A slabber can only cut on the horizontal plane.
Lets get our names right first so we know what we're talking about.
A slabber is a bar and chain setup in a rolling frame on a set of tracks that cuts on a horizontal plane, like this one
The mill that you're talking about is a frame attached to the Chainsaw to cut boards or slabs, like this one
To cut on the vertical, you need to either have a swingsaw or cut thicker slabs then resaw them 90deg at the correct thickness.
Am I close or notCheers
DJ
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2nd June 2007, 09:52 PM #5.
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What DJ Said
and
If you want to cut vertical you can use one of these.
Or a Lucas type mill with a big swing circular blade.
You can of course stand slabs on their side and trim them to size using a standard alaskan mill in the horizontal plabe. To do this safely you need some sort of saw rig which is one reason I made this.
Confusing eh - not for long!
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2nd June 2007, 10:40 PM #6
thanks guys that makes it all so clear. Whats the technical dif between DJs and Bobs? Isn't Djs just the same without the 'green' frame.
Second Q after those 'slices' are dryed which way do you cut them on the table or band saw.
Really appreciate this. I bet Iam not the only one leaning from this thread.
regards TonzI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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2nd June 2007, 11:04 PM #7
Tonz, you're right in saying that mine and Bob's are the same, I use mine with a board that I screw to the top of the log to start the first cut whereas Bob just winds his up or down to make his next cut.
Bob's setup is far safer than doing it freehand as the log is clamped but if your doing BIG logs you're better of with setting up either a rolling frame or using rail that you can attach to the log like one of these
It really comes down to what you want out of the logs and how much you want to spend. If I had these logs I would be using the slabber and a swing-saw.
As for re-sawing them, again that comes down to what you want to do with them and what gear you have. I normally use bandsaw for small stuff and break the bigger stuff down with a CS first then either BS or TS.
The slabs I cut the other day will be broken down further with the CS then tidied up on the BS then put away to dry.Cheers
DJ
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3rd June 2007, 12:08 AM #8
I think DJ has covered most of it. Just another take on what I did to the last red gum I milled. Whilst sstill in log form, I took nearly all the sap off, this narrowed the log a fair bit, meaning I could cut the rest a fair bit quicker. Then I milled the rest into slabs, my mill looks scarily like DJ's. Then stacked, stickered and wait impatiently to dry. At this stage I don't have a bandsaw, so when they are ready, I'll break them down further with the Ts, well that is if I don't have a bandsaw by then.
Keep asking questions, we may not know the answers, but we won't let that stop us.Boring signature time again!
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3rd June 2007, 12:18 AM #9.
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[QUOTE=Tonto;521469]thanks guys that makes it all so clear. Whats the technical dif between DJs and Bobs? Isn't Djs just the same without the 'green' frame./[QUOTE]
More or less except the green frame and gripper does enable me to rotate the slabs through 90o and trim them to size using the CS. I would only do this if I have an odd or large size as Chain Saws waste a lot of wood.
Second Q after those 'slices' are dryed which way do you cut them on the table or band saw.
Big slabs I break down with a CS. Smaller slabs and if the final resawn dimensions are less than 100 x 100 I use a table saw with this rig.
Board type dimensions are best done with a BS.
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3rd June 2007, 03:54 PM #10
Great so far. Now both you guys what type are yours Id guess and say Alaskan. Right/wrong?
Or are they variations of .......................? brand
Tony
ps fair go I love thisI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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3rd June 2007, 04:36 PM #11
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3rd June 2007, 06:45 PM #12
As there are three of us answering I dunno if I am one of you two or not, but I don't care I'm gonna answer.
Yes.
Mine is a really simple Alaskan knock-off. The one Bob is building now is a real flash knock-off.Boring signature time again!
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3rd June 2007, 07:02 PM #13
OK OK 3 it is then, come on in join the party.
Beleive me I am getting really jazzed by all this, now as soon as the farmer finishes seeding (agricultural) I'll get another chance to wonder around his dropped trees and work out what what.
Bob care to elaborate on the frame box thing your mill slides on plus those clamps holding the wood.
DJ how does yours slide on your frame
TonzI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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3rd June 2007, 08:03 PM #14
On the slabber, there is 4 ballbearing rollers that travel on a rib on the edge of the rails.
With my homemade Alaskan mill the vibration of the saw is enough to allow the saw to basically slide. Once I have made the first cut using a board or my soon to be made adjustable rail, it's removed then the cut face of the log is use as the guide for the mill
ps the picture above of the rail sitting on the log in post#7, is not mine, just one I pinch from a websiteCheers
DJ
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23rd June 2007, 02:18 AM #15
I spoke to a sawmill a while ago, & was told that it would cost about $60 set up then $60 per hour. I am only guessing, but I recon you would get your monys worth of timber if you got the logs at the right price, wouldnt you?
SteveThe fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.