Thread: Stuck bolt on lucas blade

Only successful method I've found from my experiences with blades and other situations is to get a pin punch that will fit in the hex hole and give it a good whack with a hammer, this breaks the bond of the bolt head in the countersunk hole.

Cheers for prompt reply but hex head is now round from the battery rattle gum and freshly charged battery, I should have continued with half dead battery and I may not be in this predicament

I'll send you a PM with my number for future issues....

Heres how you do it though, tighten a set of vice grips on the thread poking out of the blade hub, make sure they nice and tight, even deform the threads, then undo it from the 'back' of the blade bolt until the head is out far enough to bite with the vice grips again. Now you have all the others out, pop two back in to hold the blade while you do this, or the blade will fall off the hub and spin on that last bolt while you are trying to take it off...

No questions as to why I know any of the above

i have had a bolt stuck and the vice grip method didnt work.

heat teh blade Hub with oxy or Mapp preferably oxy as you can heat more accuratley, once its red try with teh vice grips it should come, if not i have used a punch on the edge of the bolt head, with the heating this worked.

you will have to get the saw hammered once its off.

best of luck

Had the same problem 2 years ago, Rang Dudley and he said to drill it out, you only have to remove the head of the bolt and then it should come loose.

i also tried drilling a 6mm hole threw the stripped allen key hole and taking it out with an easy out, broke 2 easy outs.

there is stuck, and there is stuck.

i would be concerned with drilling that i might damage the taper in teh blade where the bolt seats.

If you deform the thread to mutch you may have to cut it off so it dusent damage saw hub on the way out'

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Heres how you do it though, tighten a set of vice grips on the thread poking out of the blade hub, make sure they nice and tight, even deform the threads, then undo it from the 'back' of the blade bolt until the head is out far enough to bite with the vice grips again. Now you have all the others out, pop two back in to hold the blade while you do this, or the blade will fall off the hub and spin on that last bolt while you are trying to take it off...

No questions as to why I know any of the above

It wont damage the thread on the blade hub on the way out, the hub has something like 6-8 threads holding the bolt and (thus keeping the thread intact) you are only bringin one part of deformed thread through at any given time, as you have to work it backwards and forwards to get it out this will be like clearing out any build up, so no probs.

Sounds like Carls bolt was a bit stuck

Hi there

There is a product that can be purchased in a spray can that can eat away the corroded film that bonds nuts, bolts, studs, etc. There are a few cheaper versions, but I can recall my father, a mechanic of 40 years, recommending the products made by 'Wurth', which are not so cheap. It's called Rost Off Ice and also Rost Off Extra. They work very well. Rost Off Ice actually rapidly cools the bolt, cracking the seal allowing the rust penetrating agent to do its work. This won't have any effect on the blades also.

I also found that using genuine silver anti-seize or high temp bearing grease works better than general grease, but maybe I'm just fussy.

Cheers

James

I think I would try drilling throught the bolt first. Being an allen bolt it will be relatively simple to centre the hole without damaging the female thread. Use a quality easyout type screw extractor. If that fails drill the head of the bolt off as per Lucas' instructions. That will leave a threaded stub you can grip with vice grips or better still grind two flats so you can use a spanner. Also at this point with the blade removed you can safely apply heat to the hub to expand and break any rust seal.

Try to avoid applying heat to the blade.

Definitely for the future consider some good quality anti-seize.

Regards
Paul

As well as all suggested methods, I have had success along the lines ACCO suggested, I used a large punch, given the head a good whack and flattened the burred up hex, was enough to get a grip and undo



Pete

I would reckon that one of the impact drivers - the ones with a 1/2" drive and adaptor for hex bits that you hit with a hammer could be a good option as they deliver a blow to the bolt while turning it.
Another thought I have would be to weld on the head of the bolt a stub that can be gripped with vice grips. Best choice of welder would be tig followed by either mig or stick second. Using this method heats only the bolt significantly, the bolt expands in the hole, cools and then is quite easy to remove. No significant heat will reach the saw blade. Not a big fan of heating things red hot if you can possibly avoid it, due to tempering issues, both blade and shaft and also potential bearing/seal issues. If you need to heat anything do so using oxyacetylene for the reasons Weisyboy mentioned, but use a big tip and don't be shy, get the heat in rapidly, you only want to head the outer of the two components, thus expanding it and not have the heat soak into the inner too much expanding them both.
If using easy outs, (those allen key set screws sure are hard to drill aren't they), I will only use the square section type sold by Proto and also Snap On I think. The tapered, spiral type are surely the invention of the devil, they often expand the bolt making it harder to remove.
A lot of truckies swear by a product called "Nut Cracker", for these types of situations.

WOW!!!! Thanks to all of you who have taken the time to offer your suggestions I did try the vice grips on the back end of the bolt this am with no success. Loaded saw carriage onto back of ute and took it to my mechanic this avo after work, (thankfully I had tree jobs on today and didn't need to be milling) where he worked his magic and made me look like a fool! With a mig he made a stem out of the centre of the stuck bolt then welded a bolt on the inside to the stem. Spanner and little effort was all that was required to get that B@#!$#$ bolt out and the saw blade finally off. Hopefully I can avoid the nail or whatever is in the log with the new blade but given my luck i'll find it or another one. I'll remember to put some LUBE on this time at least. Thanks again to all for your contributions

Keep the heat away from the blade instead use a small engineers chisel. Place in into the corner of the bolt where the allen key go's. Hit it anti clock wise it will soon loosen the bolt. Replace the bolts every 250 hrs.