Thread: Is there a suitable type of saw chain for this?

Skew

A lot depends on exactly what your standard chain is. I have been ripping some hard woods including Spotted Gum and Ironbark: It takes its toll; That's for certain. I use a semi chisel chain (full chisel degrades too quickly at the point with super hard timbers). Probably it is best to make a series of relatively shallow cuts about the depth of the bar rather than trying to go right through at one hit. This will assist in maintaining chain speed and will reduce the amount of heat buildup.

I have heard that tungsten carbide blades have better longevity, but I have no experience of them and I believe they are still very expensive compared to the normal chains. When cutting these timbers, I rarely get through a full tank before having to re-sharpen. I would plan on sharpening twice per tankful.

Regards
Paul

I'll bet your standard chain's rakers re too high.

Post me a side on picture of your chain like this and I'll give you a raker diagnosis,
Try to get the cutters as big and square to the camera as possible in the picture
BBs-chain.jpg

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

A lot depends on exactly what your standard chain is.

Point taken. 3/8" pitch, semi-chisel, standard teeth arangement. (I think they're also called "full house?")

Pretty much the chain that comes stock with most Stihls around here.

I guess that what I was really wondering is whether a half-skip or full-skip chain would be better, improving scavenging considering I'm cutting at full bar length. (15" & 18")

I've been told that these are better suited for 24" bars or longer, but I'm still wondering. I'm certainly no expert

I have heard that tungsten carbide blades have better longevity, but I have no experience of them and I believe they are still very expensive compared to the normal chains. When cutting these timbers, I rarely get through a full tank before having to re-sharpen. I would plan on sharpening twice per tankful.

Yeah, I'd like to have a go at TC but I can't justify buying one. That's about the ballpark for where I'm currently sharpening, so it's nice to know it's not my technique.

Originally Posted by BobL

I'll bet your standard chain's rakers re too high.

Post me a side on picture of your chain like this and I'll give you a raker diagnosis,
Try to get the cutters as big and square to the camera as possible in the picture

Thanks, Bob. It may take me a few days to get a round tuit, but I'll take you up on that offer.

I've been trying out the Stihl 2-in-1 file holder which should keep the rakers set, but I've also find it's quite easy to not put enough downward pressure on it in use, Takes some getting used to after using plain ol' round files for so long.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Thanks, Bob. It may take me a few days to get a round tuit, but I'll take you up on that offer.

I've been trying out the Stihl 2-in-1 file holder which should keep the rakers set, but I've also find it's quite easy to not put enough downward pressure on it in use, Takes some getting used to after using plain ol' round files for so long.

I've tested out about a dozen different raker guides/gizmos and none of them handle the rakers properly especially in the later stages of a chains life. Call me cynical but chain manufacturers have a vested interest in getting customers to buy new chains so they dont care if the chain doesn't works so well as it ages.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

I guess that what I was really wondering is whether a half-skip or full-skip chain would be better, improving scavenging considering I'm cutting at full bar length. (15" & 18")

I've been told that these are better suited for 24" bars or longer, but I'm still wondering. I'm certainly no expert

Skew

My information is that there is no mileage in skip tooth chains on bars under about 28". When you think about it, on a small chain there just won't be very many teeth at all in the cutting zone. What exactly is the nature of the timber you are cutting? How long is it and is it in round log form? I hope it isn't in ironbark sleeper form? I hate those with a vengeance.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Skew

My information is that there is no mileage in skip tooth chains on bars under about 28". When you think about it, on a small chain there just won't be very many teeth at all in the cutting zone. What exactly is the nature of the timber you are cutting? How long is it and is it in round log form? I hope it isn't in ironbark sleeper form? I hate those with a vengeance.

Regards
Paul

When I set up my second mill with the 42" bar I milled about 30 logs using skip toothed chain and then tried a regular (full comp) chain and never went back after that even on the 60" bar. Fo logs <18" in diameter, i usually use my small Alaskan mill with a 72cc Stihl and 25" bar with LoPro (narrow kerf) full comp chain with lowered rakers. This setup mills the hardest woods with ease, just as fast as if I were to use my 121 cc Stihl with the full comp chain.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Thanks, Bob. It may take me a few days to get a round tuit, but I'll take you up on that offer.

I've been trying out the Stihl 2-in-1 file holder which should keep the rakers set, but I've also find it's quite easy to not put enough downward pressure on it in use, Takes some getting used to after using plain ol' round files for so long.

I have a mate who uses one of these, and when I borrow his big Stihl I always find it cuts very poorly (in fact my ancient teeny weeny but SHARP Stihl 025 leaves it for dead). I always sharpen his chain by hand with round file on cutters and flat file + gauge on the rakers before returning the saw (just like all good neighbours do...), and he is gobsmacked at how much better it cuts when he gets it back. Had him over to ours for beer and a chain sharpening lesson recently ....

Last time I was at the local Stihl outlet buying files they sales guy tried to sell me the 2-in-1 file setup....before admitting that he wouldn't use it either. lol

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Skew

I have heard that tungsten carbide blades have better longevity, but I have no experience of them and I believe they are still very expensive compared to the normal chains. When cutting these timbers, I rarely get through a full tank before having to re-sharpen. I would plan on sharpening twice per tankful.

Regards
Paul

How many woodworkers are still using a HSS blade, that they have to sharpen with a file, on their saw bench?

Bought a TC chainsaw and will never go back to a HSS one.

Their one downside is that they are not as sharp as HSS and so require a bit more power.

Only downside of TC is initial cost, expense to get them resharpened professionally, and they chip easily if you you hit anything hard. A lot of the wood I cut has bits of grit and stone embedded in it at the base (absorbed into the trunk as the tree grew) - hit that and you can wreck a TC chain in no time. With conventional chain I just cuss a bit and reach for the files....

As for the 2-in-1's, I think they have their place in getting beginners going. Probably not in a pros toolkit though.

I find that although they are easy to misuse I can indeed get my chain as sharp as I can with seperate files. When sharpening on a bench anyway. Although many would probably mock what I call sharp.

In the field it's damned awkward to use on the ground; 'cos it needs down pressure as well as back pressure to cut rakers & teeth at the same time the saw tends to move around a lot, involving an awkward squat to keep things in place which my back absolutely hates. So I still use my round files for touchups while I work.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

What exactly is the nature of the timber you are cutting? How long is it and is it in round log form? I hope it isn't in ironbark sleeper form? I hate those with a vengeance.

I asked a while ago about the best way to cut "bottom of the heap" firewood and was put onto sawbucks. (Thanks again for that, fellas! My back loves you.)

Now I'm at the dregs of the dregs. Imagine hollow rounds, probably around 12-18" dia. originally, that were split into thirds & quarters. These are about 3-5" thick, 15-18" long and about the same wide. Think a 15"x4" board that's VERY badly cupped, docked into 15" lengths.

The logs weren't cut squarely, so I can't safely stand 'em upright to cut down cross-grain enough to get wedges in to finish splitting, they'll really only sit flat on a surface. (I've already split what I could that way.)

I can set 'em flat on my splitting block and cut cross-grain, but I need to cut all the way through (wedges are useless here) and , well... the whole "my back doesn't like it" thing again.. My splitting stump is sized for comfort with an axe, not a chainsaw!

Instead, I'm putting 'em on my sawbuck & heel'n'toeing along the grain until I can get wedges in at both ends. I won't cut cross-grain on the buck; as the wood is curved either the edges or the centres hang lower than the buck.

I've a pile, about 2m³ that has earned my ire and I am going to see the stuff burn, one way or another.

May be a silly question, but do you have access to a hydraulic block splitter to break down those 15-18" long "sticks" ?


Also, given that the "sticks" are 3-5" thick, can you bundle 3 to5 of them with a rope or chain and the cut starter slots in each into which you can insert a wedge?

another option is to put a low cost low tooth count blade in your mitre saw -- and possibly fit the saw with a disposable fence and table -- and use the saw to
1. square up the ends
2. chop the sticks into 6 to 8 in lengths

Originally Posted by ian

May be a silly question, but do you have access to a hydraulic block splitter to break down those 15-18" long "sticks" ?

I borrowed a 30T petrol job but the ends aren't remotely square and I spent more time trying to stop the logs shooting out the sides than actually accomplishing anything. There are witness marks on many pieces from where I believe the supplier tried just this with his big splitter.

Perhaps there are splitters with cages to the sides to prevent this, but I don't know of one to rent/borrow. Besides, they'd be a beggar to load up.

Also, given that the "sticks" are 3-5" thick, can you bundle 3 to5 of them with a rope or chain and the cut starter slots in each into which you can insert a wedge?

Now there's an idea! It would certainly speed things along if I could bundle them in a stable manner. If I stack similar sized lengths like bowls (ie. convex to concave) it may be feasible.

In all honesty I would much prefer to do this than take full bar-length cuts on hard-to-hold pieces.