Thread: timber properteys during milling.

i am using ie7 and get no reed lines.

i have not cleaned up any of my posts it must have been done by the spelling fary.

it takes me long enough as it is to type things out without stoping everyword to make sure its spelled corectly.

FWIW I had noticed that not everyone on this board has fantastic spelling or grammer. I have been known to make a few typo's myself - once famously typing DPST for a switch designation instead of SPST simply because D and S are next to each other on the keyboard. So a simple typo completely changed the meaning of my post. I always assumed that as long as somebody could be understood then we were pretty forgiving of actual spelling quality. Sure Carl doesn't always get it perfectly correct, but I can usually understand what he means, which is the main point of communication.

Peter

Honestly, some of you fellas make a person not want to post on these forums for fear of ridicule. Get a life. Ooops did i say that? Just slipped out as I was biting my tongue.

Did you find anything incorrect in what was stated? If so, what? I know they bought new saws at our local mill to mill the smaller logs they get these days, takes a flitch off both sides at once to minimise the bowing.

Donna

Originally Posted by petersemple

Bob,

your browser must have a spell checker in it (I know that Firefox does for example). I'm using IE6 still and there's no wiggly red lines in any posts for me (except for the screen capture image you posted.

Peter

You're right. I just tried out IE and it didn't come up red. Well that's then an assumption of others I will have to withdraw. Selpl aawy all wnorg sa mcuh as ouy lkie - I can raed it awayny and ltes trohw any smebalcne of caelr comumnashun out the wodinw.

Sorry Bob I couldn't read your last sentence so i put it through the spell check

Originally Posted by BobL

. Sell away all inorganic as much as guy like - I can read it Binnaway and lets trowel any comebacks of carpels comumnashun out the wounding.

that's better

i'm putting my 2 cents in. all hardwood logs have internal and external forces in the timber. when you mill the log these forces present themselves in the rough sawn board. the question of "how do mills cut straight timber?" is a good question. the do a process called resawing. which is when a quarter sawn board is cut it is always bowed what you do is resaw it to take the bow out. quite an easy process on the lucas. you cut an 8" board then resaw to 6" with no bow. cup and twist need to be taken out later in the finishing process . one easy way to explain the forces in the tree is simple the timber allways pulls toward the bark. if you draw a clock and instead of numbers draw arrows from the centre of the clock to the outside and this will show you which way the forces act. thats why a slab cut through the middle of a slab with the heart in it will always crack. the forces are working against each other resulting in splitting. in defence of weisy i think his description of how a log reacts to milling was pretty spot on

One of the things I have appreciated about these forums has been how fellow forumites are willing to share their experience and to do stuff for each other, even when they don't even know who they are (take the recent way forumites have helped each other track down those $99 triton routers)

It is a bit of a shame if we start attacking one another... It is OK to disagree with what someone says but explain why and then we can all make up our own minds.

If nothing else, Carl has given me something to think about and take better note of what happens when I am ripping timber. For example when just ripping a straight plank on the bench saw,sometimes the kerf will open up really wide (spread its legs!) and other times it will close up and even cross over. It was a complete mystery to me! Thanks to Carl raising the issue and some of the information posted by others, I am beginning to understand a bit more and know what to look for.

All of us should always try to improve on what we do; whether that be our spelling (I have been suprised at how many typos I have with no spellchecker in IE7), grammar, our woodwork or what ever. Then there is this forum where we should be able to post questions or ideas. I know I have appreciated this very much since joining up and have used the information from many of you guys to make decisions such as which lathe to buy etc

Chipman

Hey Guys I joined this forum to exchange ideas. Not to bicker with each other. I get enough of that with my wife that's why i love comunicating with you guys. You are all like my brothers. I don't care about spelling or putting people down.

Carl i like this forum as i have had a fascination with timber for years and love seeing it be milled. I will probly buy a 36" Alaskin saw mill and a 395xp tomorrow. Hope this is the right choice.

I found this thread really good until the girls started fighting. Have a beer and chill out dudes.

JAMC

By the way i will be going on holidays down the west coast next month for eight weeks, so if anyone wants a visitor let me know.

My last post seems to have been taken too far beyond what I meant.

Full apologies to Weisyboy and others.

At the risk of carrying on the bickering, I tend to agree with Bob and Waldo that poor spelling/grammar/organisation of one's thoughts makes otherwise worthwhile posts much less useful.

It's simple courtesy to construct a sentence in the language we all speak and I can't really see any reason not to, especially in today's world of spell checkers and so on. If IE doesn't have one built in, perhaps write the response in word (which does) and then paste to IE?

In terms of resawing, I very rarely do it on the mill, but prefer to wait till the boards are dry before ripping on the bench. There are two reasons I do it that way; firstly, the board can move considerably during drying, making it necessary to resaw later anyway (or it may just come straight) and the mill is not as accurate or as efficient as the bench for resawing (2" off an 8" board ). On top of that, the mill kerf is 5.8mm, which is a big loss compared to the 3mm or so of my ripping blades.


Regardless, if the cut timber is properly stacked,packed and strapped most tension-related bowing, etc will come out during the drying for most species. Really big curvature is usually only a problem for very fast-growing specimens on boards that are cut close to the outside of the log, when there can be a large variation in the wood structure across the board. If sapwood is included, some boards will practically tie themselves in knots (khaya, for example).

There are ways to cut the tension out of a board while milling and experienced millers do so pretty automatically.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i am using ie7 and get no reed lines.

Originally Posted by BobL

You're right. I just tried out IE and it didn't come up red. Well that's then an assumption of others I will have to withdraw.

You can get a what they call ABC Check with Google Toolbar for IE 7, in fact it's available for most browsers.

Anyway back to milling,i have found anything bigger than 2 inches thick i need to use wedges,otherwise its fine.I suppose i,m not milling monster logs either,I just ordered a 42inch bar and chain see how that goes.Keep it real guys

I always wedge when slabbing, regardless of which side of the log, simply because supporting the slab as it's being cut can tke out some of the tension and help make a smoother chain exit, not to mention prevent binding. Usually 2 sets is enough - one near the beginning of the cut and another just past half way. Sometimes a third set is useful when cutting from the second half of the log.

yes when slabbing it is best to wedge anyway as the weight of the slab overcomes the force of bow. i use one in the end and 2 just past half way. 3 sets if the slab is longer than 2.4 or is weak timber.