Thread: Tooth breakage

The steel broke? Sounds like the retipper didn't heat the blade properly and made the blade brittle or let it cool to quickly (something along those lines)
You just have to MIG weld some metal back onto the time then grind and file the pocket back. Make sure the pocket is filed spot on, otherwise the tips won't hold on

its normaly caused by overheating the tip without heating the rest of the blade plate. if i break a tip or get a crack in the blade peacoks will just rebuild the blade. it normally costs about $10. if its not to bad they do it for free.

as carl has said it is caused by either a lazy or inexperienced person brazing the tip in. when they have done this they have allowed the steel to get too hot. honestly if the steel gets a cherry colour it is too hot, the steel should be heated just enough that the solder melts and basically sucks the tip into the pocket. The good news yes it is repairable, however if you were to go down the line of using the mig make sure that you heat the welded area CAREFULLY afterwards, you do not want to heat affect the body of the saw. I actually prefer to use an oxy torch with a nice fine tip and rebuild the area using a similar type of metal such as bandsaw stock.

Thanks for the replies, I bought the mill second hand so I have no history of who did what before I owned it, having the tooth rebuilt & see how it goes from there, will be cutting a heap of grey gum soon which is really hard, so if it survives that its a good test.
regards inter

Inter, is your grey gum hard down there? I've cut a good amount, not heaps, up here and it seems to melt nicely from the blade??? It was green, but cut rather easy I recall

The grey gum around here will take big chips out of an axe face its that hard
regards inter

found a crack about 15mm back behind one of the tips on my blade yesterday. iv marked it and when its in getting retiped next thell fix her up for me.

most o teh grey iv cut has been quite hard, one log i did 3 sections actualy 1m in dimaiter kept knocking the teeth off my blades. went threw 5 blades. but i dont cut a lot with the mill most of the stuff round here is only good for splits.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

found a crack about 15mm back behind one of the tips on my blade yesterday. iv marked it and when its in getting retiped next thell fix her up for me.

most o teh grey iv cut has been quite hard, one log i did 3 sections actualy 1m in dimaiter kept knocking the teeth off my blades. went threw 5 blades. but i dont cut a lot with the mill most of the stuff round here is only good for splits.

Hope they do it right Carl. What species is the grey gum and what is the timber like? or is it grey box you are reffering to?

The grey gum we cut is hard and gummy, it's good and strong if you can get a piece without gum veins

not sure of the scientific name.

the old fellas recon there is 2 types.

one they call mountain grey gum and the other just plain grey gum.

the mountain one normaly has the pipes in it but neither have gum veins. the trunks are slightly different to look at the mountain one is darker with bigger areas that shed and go orange.

is this the one you are reffering too? Grey gum (Primary Industries & Fisheries, Queensland)

I believe mountain grey gum is a southern species (Sthn NSW or lower) Gum veins in grey gum are usually the result of fire damage, so the ones off the sides of ridges & a bit protected are only worth looking at, the biggest problem with it is grub damage & unless the barrel is absolutely smooth with no bumps or marks they are only good for fencing, around here anything at a bit of altitude has less grub damage.
regards inter