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Thread: "Upgrades" people, "upgrades"
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26th August 2010, 10:13 PM #31
i had a winch fitted for a wile, you have to have a big spring in the line, like a garage door spring, as i dont mill alone i didnt need it so we just lean on it.
i put in a bigger battery.
put a set of the narrow white wheels on both ends of the carriage makes it run better.
a longer handle on the winders makes it a bit easier winding teh engine up and down after a days milling.
i kept breaking the roll pins off, so i put a washer under and put a small lynch pin threw.
i have done a few things ill show you but im not putting on the forum.
a few things on the list of to dos.
1. adjustable feet on the ends of the bottom rails. to assist in leveling.
2. solid bushings in the ends of the top rails to stop the holes wearing again.
3. better center stays.
4. drill and put a hollow bolt in the bar for the oiler so it puts oil in the grove not just on top.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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26th August 2010 10:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th August 2010, 10:22 PM #32Member
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Yeah, nice to watch. Makes me drool to see how it loads and rolls the pieces. Can't help but think a med sized Ironbark (300-400mm) might squish the pretty little thing. Certainly would save alot of efffort if it could handle our hardwoods.
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26th August 2010, 10:22 PM #33
slightly better than a bandsaw only verry limited in size. for every extra 2" of log diamiter you add 4" to teh with of teh cuttn head.
also only usefull for dead streight small logs. would be good in plantation hardwood.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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26th August 2010, 10:33 PM #34
Time will tell.
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26th August 2010, 10:39 PM #35Member
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Carl, What was the negative with your winch? The day I came to that slabbing job you were doing, there seemed to be a fair bit of sweat happening. Once you got the gearing right, wouldn't the mechanical advantage save 1 man pushing/ leaning?
Thanks for the input. I'll run my eye over those areas on my mill.
Could you direct me to the thread that explains how, with an angle grinder, you can make your Lucas 8" cut 16" without rotating it. Don't want to go over old ground as I'm sure it's been discussed before but I'ld like to read both sides of the argument.
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26th August 2010, 10:43 PM #36Member
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26th August 2010, 11:19 PM #37
I ll be running it to its full 20" potential. If a trunks thicker I can sell it to the mills or use the 68'' mini slabber to make cants an resaw them , Where we will use it it s perfect its 40- 50 year old regrowth. We have all timbers native to wide bay burnnet plus plantation pines.
Last edited by itsposs; 26th August 2010 at 11:22 PM. Reason: adding facts and Answering both questions
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27th August 2010, 06:01 AM #38
Where do I start? nowhere at the mo, but more to come later...
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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29th August 2010, 08:21 PM #39Member
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So here is a very simple mod I did to counter the balancing act I'm prone to try and do to get the mill level. Should only take 1 1/2- 2 hrs to grind out the bottoms of the legs, (leaving the square of the plate attached) and make up at least 2 neat fitting leg extensions. Drill holes 25mm apart then rotate 90o and drill another series of holes 25mm apart but offset 12.5mm. Shouldn't cost more than $20 and I have found them ideal.
P.S. It's easiest to drop them in the apropriate posi and then slip the post over the top and don't drill the whole extension piece or you may be tempted to go too far and become precarious.
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29th August 2010, 10:39 PM #40Intermediate Member
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Hi Stumpkicker
In the Kanopy pic there looks to be a EH wagon in the background?
Also what about mounting 1/2 a rear drive sprocket from a motorbike on to a base to hold a log. I have been thinking of modifying the legs of my mill with a setup like in the pic, with one fixed at the base of the upright and a movable one depending on log size.
May have to raise log up then sit it on top or just lock it in between the two.
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29th August 2010, 10:52 PM #41
i wont put anythin made of settle near where teh balde runs.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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30th August 2010, 08:42 AM #42
Interesting idea stumpkicker - personally I just have a tapered length of timber I chuck under whichever leg is 'low'
I too have absolutely minimal steel within the rails, nowadays its 2 batten screws that's all.I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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31st August 2010, 09:42 PM #43Member
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You won't be able to mount it on the leg as the saw needs about 900mm clearance from the leg to the side of the log.They'll certainly lock the log in place, and if you used an alloy sprocket it would (possibly) reduce chipping teeth. I'm with Sigidi, as little metal as possible in the blade area. Keep thinking, we'll reinvent the wheel.
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31st August 2010, 10:13 PM #44
i thinnk we should use a square one.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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1st September 2010, 02:28 PM #45Cheers,
Craig
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