Thread: "Upgrades" people, "upgrades"

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i started to make a frame that its teh top o teh posts but never got it finished.

lucas have a real nice one they use at shows. duno where they got it or if you can buy them.

if i can and am milling in one place for more than a week in summer i put a tarp up on poles(actualy flitches)

Yeah ya can buy them Carl but these cost a fortune

for shade I just screwed some light shs to either side of the carriage push bar at an angle & popped a beach umbrella into it, you just point it into the centre & angle the upper half verticle over yourself, only works on logs where the carriage travels between the support frames.

probably the best thing I have done to my mill is making sure the tooth angle is at 36 degrees. the pushing effort between
31 degrees & 36 degrees is considerable
regards inter

The tooth angle aspect is interesting. I tried a few minor experiments on my blades and came to a similar conclusion. Also, if the angle goes too far the other way, the blade tends to want to follow the grain more, , especially in ironbark and the like.

What would the "factory" setting be or more to the point what is 36 deg relative to?.(suppose with a protractor I could quickly figure that out)
Do you adjust that angle when sharpening or do the teeth need to be resoldered?
Inter, whats with the wire basket on the right of your saw? Upgrade man! Seems like a good idea, would you recomend it? Does it get in the way or any negatives?

36 degrees is the recommended angle, you draw a line from the blade centre to the tip & another line along the angle of the tip, then measure that angle with a protractor, you cant go more than 36' as the sharpener runs out of adjustment & also the back of the tip angle would come into play & would have to be ground to give it the correct angle but then the total tip angle would be very sharp & blunt quicker. If the angle was too far out I would just wait for a retip & make sure they were at the right angle before leaving the saw doctors.
The plastic coated wire basket is really handy for carrying a drink bottle, chalk, spanners, folding rule, screwdriver, little wedges, flat scraper, wd40 , claw hammer & nails, doesnt hold sawdust or get in the way, its from a commercial drinks fridge & it hangs over my shade setup mount & a 8mm rod over ther pushbar.
regards inter

This is my little add on for doing fence posts about a 1.5 minutes per post once in the jig.
regards inter

bloke up teh road has a setup like that inter

he bores a 2" hole 2" deep in teh ends of his logs and sticks a pin in them.

works ok but its a bit slow cos he has to bore teh holes.

i just have 2 lumps of log.

been gunna make one with wheels for ages but haven't gt round to it yet.

That is great inter, looks like it does a magic job.

From my perspective I don't have anything to pick up logs how you getting the log into t?

Originally Posted by Sigidi

That is great inter, looks like it does a magic job.

From my perspective I don't have anything to pick up logs how you getting the log into t?

I have a pair of tongs that I lift the log off a roof beam with a hand winch. In the process of making a hydraulic lifter which will be an under log setup.
regards inter

i have been thinking when i finally get my mill shed built i might put a big I Beam in from the side. put an electric hoist on it on rollers so that logs can be stacked on bolsters and lifted in over the rails. and large beams can be lifted out. without getting the loader in over the rails.

still undecided.

That certainly looks like it works Inter, is that your first attempt and had you seen it somewhere or just out of your head? As nothing is square do you have to rotate it every cut? Great post. (sorry, bad pun)

Originally Posted by Stumpkicker

That certainly looks like it works Inter, is that your first attempt and had you seen it somewhere or just out of your head? As nothing is square do you have to rotate it every cut? Great post. (sorry, bad pun)

Yes its the first attempt, I just made up the design from a few ideas floating around in the melon. I had an order for 1000 posts so I thought something like this would save time & make it easier, which it did. Yes the log is rotated with a cant hook for each post cut then rolled back a little for the horizontal cut. I takes longer to get the billets & stack the posts than to cut the posts themselves.
regards inter

Originally Posted by InterTD6

36 degrees is the recommended angle, you draw a line from the blade centre to the tip & another line along the angle of the tip, then measure that angle with a protractor, you cant go more than 36' as the sharpener runs out of adjustment & also the back of the tip angle would come into play & would have to be ground to give it the correct angle but then the total tip angle would be very sharp & blunt quicker. If the angle was too far out I would just wait for a retip & make sure they were at the right angle before leaving the saw doctors.
The plastic coated wire basket is really handy for carrying a drink bottle, chalk, spanners, folding rule, screwdriver, little wedges, flat scraper, wd40 , claw hammer & nails, doesnt hold sawdust or get in the way, its from a commercial drinks fridge & it hangs over my shade setup mount & a 8mm rod over ther pushbar.
regards inter

What type of protractor would be the easiest to use ? an engineers or a little plastic see-thru one ? I am keen to check mine.

I tried the nail in the wedge idea on a couple of h/wood logs, works great, they did not move at all, cost me about 40 cents. I have never been keen on some alternatives that can be made or bought, the best methods can be so simple, Thanks
regards John

[QUOTE=johnnyroberts;1218875]What type of protractor would be the easiest to use ? an engineers or a little plastic see-thru one ? I am keen to check mine.
Either would be ok to get you within a degree or so
regards inter