Thread: "Upgrades" people, "upgrades"

Yeah, nice to watch. Makes me drool to see how it loads and rolls the pieces. Can't help but think a med sized Ironbark (300-400mm) might squish the pretty little thing. Certainly would save alot of efffort if it could handle our hardwoods.

slightly better than a bandsaw only verry limited in size. for every extra 2" of log diamiter you add 4" to teh with of teh cuttn head.

also only usefull for dead streight small logs. would be good in plantation hardwood.

Time will tell.

Carl, What was the negative with your winch? The day I came to that slabbing job you were doing, there seemed to be a fair bit of sweat happening. Once you got the gearing right, wouldn't the mechanical advantage save 1 man pushing/ leaning?
Thanks for the input. I'll run my eye over those areas on my mill.
Could you direct me to the thread that explains how, with an angle grinder, you can make your Lucas 8" cut 16" without rotating it. Don't want to go over old ground as I'm sure it's been discussed before but I'ld like to read both sides of the argument.

Originally Posted by itsposs

Time will tell.

So your serious about getting one? What dia log will yours handle? Are you planning on cutting pine or hardwood?

I ll be running it to its full 20" potential. If a trunks thicker I can sell it to the mills or use the 68'' mini slabber to make cants an resaw them , Where we will use it it s perfect its 40- 50 year old regrowth. We have all timbers native to wide bay burnnet plus plantation pines.

Where do I start? nowhere at the mo, but more to come later...

So here is a very simple mod I did to counter the balancing act I'm prone to try and do to get the mill level. Should only take 1 1/2- 2 hrs to grind out the bottoms of the legs, (leaving the square of the plate attached) and make up at least 2 neat fitting leg extensions. Drill holes 25mm apart then rotate 90o and drill another series of holes 25mm apart but offset 12.5mm. Shouldn't cost more than $20 and I have found them ideal.

P.S. It's easiest to drop them in the apropriate posi and then slip the post over the top and don't drill the whole extension piece or you may be tempted to go too far and become precarious.

Hi Stumpkicker

In the Kanopy pic there looks to be a EH wagon in the background?

Also what about mounting 1/2 a rear drive sprocket from a motorbike on to a base to hold a log. I have been thinking of modifying the legs of my mill with a setup like in the pic, with one fixed at the base of the upright and a movable one depending on log size.

May have to raise log up then sit it on top or just lock it in between the two.

i wont put anythin made of settle near where teh balde runs.

Interesting idea stumpkicker - personally I just have a tapered length of timber I chuck under whichever leg is 'low'

I too have absolutely minimal steel within the rails, nowadays its 2 batten screws that's all.

Originally Posted by Worlo

Hi Stumpkicker

In the Kanopy pic there looks to be a EH wagon in the background?

Also what about mounting 1/2 a rear drive sprocket from a motorbike on to a base to hold a log. I have been thinking of modifying the legs of my mill with a setup like in the pic, with one fixed at the base of the upright and a movable one depending on log size.

May have to raise log up then sit it on top or just lock it in between the two.

You won't be able to mount it on the leg as the saw needs about 900mm clearance from the leg to the side of the log.They'll certainly lock the log in place, and if you used an alloy sprocket it would (possibly) reduce chipping teeth. I'm with Sigidi, as little metal as possible in the blade area. Keep thinking, we'll reinvent the wheel.

i thinnk we should use a square one.

Like this?

Square Wheel Car Propels Itself by Shifting Weight - Possible MEMS Locomotion