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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    GA USA
    Posts
    4

    Default Woodland Mills HM130MAX - Head Shake

    Hello all,

    I am a new member to the forum and I joined because I am a new owner of a Woodland Mills HM130 MAx.


    I have assembled and leveled the sawmill on a stand and I have everything just about perfect.

    EXCEPT.

    I am getting some terrible head shake sawing wide boards on this mill. I am using the woodland mills blades that are 7/8 pitch blades. Mostly sawing popular right now. Some of it is pretty big. ~ 20" in diameter.

    When sawing these larger logs on this mill I am experiencing serious head shake in this will. It doesn't even appear that that going slow solves the issue for this mill.

    Also I should note that this is with brand new blades. I have went through a couple of blades so far. (They need sharpened).

    I went through the manual and loosened up all of the bolts and let the head settle like the manual suggests and that doesn't appear to have helped at all. If anything it might have made it worse. I'm actually surprised that the head is shaking at all because this thing is super heavy and beefy built.


    Can anyone help me or give me some suggestions?

    IMG_6027.jpgIMG_6017.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,792

    Default

    Nice setup ! - we need to do something like this, Even getting the bottom of the tracks 150mm off the floor will be worth it.

    We also experienced shake when we first got the mill but found it was just a matter of getting used to the mill.
    We found far less shake milling hardwoods and built up practice/skill by milling spotted gum.

    Here is a near full width cut (29") of spotted gum.
    The mill struggled to cut this and now limit the hardwood widths to about 20"
    MAXCUT2.jpg
    The Woodland blades are on the "ordinary" side.
    Get some bimetal blades or if you have the pennies some TC tipped blades.

    When you get bimetal blades resharpened ask for a bit less hook - this will reduce blade "grab" and in turn the "shake".
    It will reduce the cutting speed but the blades will last longer between sharpenings.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Check his location Bob. Henry Bros might be a bit out of the way.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    Shake can be caused by a few different things; Loose frame components, Insufficient bracing, Low tension to blade, Poor quality blade, Dull blade, Too much hook on the teeth, Incorrect feed speed, Incorrect blade speed.
    As BobL has already mentioned , the supplied blade is not the best option. There are better ones out there and seeing you are going to need more than one blade it may be prudent to invest in a more fit for purpose blade and see if that helps. Meanwhile, check the other possibilities
    I have mentioned.

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