Thread: Any beekeepers in here?

We do have one hive. Standard hive, nothing fancy. My wife deals with it, with help from a friend who has many hives.

I’ve got six in Langstroths. I can’t buy the timber as cheaply as I can buy flat pack boxes and frames. (Iwoohoo.com)

I’ve tried flow frames but like the langstroths more. My bees also wouldn’t use the plastic flow frames.

I’ve made ply boxes for nukes. They work just fine. Formply or CD grade. It all works - The bees don’t care.


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Hi Riverbuilder,

i have a hive in my backyard (actually two, but the second isn’t meant to be there!). Mine is a Flowhive, they are a bit more $$ than your standard hive but I think well worth it.

Honey Straight From The Hive | Australian Made & Invented | Flow Hive

With the design of the Flowhive you don’t have to remove the frames to get the honey, easier for you, less intrusive for the bees.

I am very much a novice, I only set up the hive this summer, but my dad has been involved in beekeeping since he was a kid so he is helping me out.

I find it very addictive, and cathartic watching the girls going back and forth, doing their thing.

Cheers,

Mark

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Langstroth 8 frame hives are the way to go for readily available and cheap hive material. 8 frame is easier on your back than 10. Personally, I'd stay away from Flow Hives. Some advantages are outweighed by the disadvantages.
If you're only after one hive have a look at Kenyan top bar hives. Very cheap and easy to work, you don't need all the extra extracting gear either.

If you're just starting out, the single best advice I can offer is to get the "Australian Bee Keeping Manual". It is very comprehensive, easy to read and being for Australian conditions, is on-topic.

I endorse Elver's response. I would add, you can get two depths, "ideal" and "full" depth supers. Get the "ideal" (about 40% smaller). A full depth super full of honey is over 30 KG. That's pretty hard to move around at the best of times, but add in a bee suit, and needing to be gentle...

We had a Flow on one hive, and extracted comb honey from the other, but after several season purchased a second Flow. They work spectacularly for us.

I'll also second Mark's comment. We've had bees for years and still find ourselves sitting on the deck just watching them fly back and forth. It is indeed one of life's simple pleasures.

You have had some good advice here River. I have this season returned to bees after 35 years and a
have been amazed at the newfangledness of the choices! I support the recommendation of 8-frame full-depth Langstroth a# the default then work from there.
* if you are very strong 10-frame has some management advantages but very heavy.
* if weight is a big issue consider ideal (3/4 depth) or horizontal Langstroth
* if you have particular environmental leanings then top bar or Warre are options but there are lots of complications.
* if you only want one hive and are rich the flow hive is an option but almost double the price.
* two hives are better than one. Yes you need an extractor but it costs less than the extra cost of 2 flow hives
* start the hives in spring/early summer not autumn.
* timber for home-made boxes is very difficult to source.
There are lots of experts out there and some are pushing opinion as fact! Langstroth beekeeping is tried and tested over 150 years.

Bruce (used to be a beekeeping adviser)

Thanks for all that, which timber is the best? I have heaps available.

If you go down the Langstroth option, probably any softwood. Weight is an issue. 22 mm is the standard thickness. You could go thicker but remember the weight issue. Stick to standard internal dimensions. Interchangeability is the aim. Read up about ‘bee space’. That is the secret to things working properly. I would buy flat pack frames. They are much more difficult to make well.
I could write a book - in fact I’d have a manuscript completed before computers - way out of date now.
Your key risk in diy is on selling non standard equipment if (or when) your new passion subsides.

If you go the top bar method you can get away with using old pallets. Very low cost!

Top bar hives were developed for developing countries. Low cost, low tech. Harder to source starter bees. Harvesting cost similar (a good press costs same as an extractor). Different set of management problems (keeping combs straight, combs stuck to sides). Hard to move or to sell. Lower production of honey because the bees have to rebuild harvested combs (they forgo 8 kg of honey to make 1 kg of wax).
Advocates say it is a more natural way of beekeeping.

Originally Posted by bruceward51

If you go down the Langstroth option, probably any softwood. Weight is an issue. 22 mm is the standard thickness. You could go thicker but remember the weight issue. Stick to standard internal dimensions. Interchangeability is the aim. Read up about ‘bee space’. That is the secret to things working properly. I would buy flat pack frames. They are much more difficult to make well.
I could write a book - in fact I’d have a manuscript completed before computers - way out of date now.
Your key risk in diy is on selling non standard equipment if (or when) your new passion subsides.

Thankyou Bruce, I should have mentioned from the beginning that we are on a steep block here(30degrees) and the hive will be at the top, about 60 metres up the hill from the back doorstep. I can’t imagine carrying boxes or even frames down for harvesting. I think the flow hive is almost the only option for here. I will make my own box naturally and purchase the inner workings from a supplier, do you know of any? I’ve heard there are knock-offs available but it would be better to support the local original bloke probably. Thanks.

The flow hive concept requires absolute precision in manufacturing. There are knock-offs but from what I have heard that they look good and don't work! Have a look on the web for flow-hive hybrid systems - that is what you are talking about. I have no experience at all with flow hives. I have seen one, but that is as far as it goes. I do know what sort of extra provisions you need to make in boxes that are to contain flow-frames. The one I have seen (at our beekeeping club) was donated by the flow-hive company. It has glass panels so you can monitor when to harvest etc.
While it may be difficult under the current circumstances, I would suggest that your local bee club would be a good place to connect up with people who have done what you are trying to do. See Central Coast — Amateur Beekeepers Association NSW.

Riverbuilder, I just stumbled across this topic after having recently bought some bees wax to make my own wax paste. Found the best source was just about in your backyard and they sell everything from hives to bees to tools at Hornsby Beekeeping Supplies. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Gary