Thread: Help wanted: first timer re-springing armchair

Some more destapling today, revealing the layering of fabric, foam, new wadding, old wadding, coconut fibre, and worn-out hessian.

The final pic shows a strange strap of webbing across the back of the arm frame. Does this serve any purpose?

I think I'm close to having to buy some stuff. New hessian and webbing at least. And maybe an air stapler. Anyone know where to buy these in Adelaide? Should I re-use the wadding, foam and coconut fibre, or are there modern replacements for these?

supercheap autos has cheap air staplers, mine has done a lot of upholstery

From reading between your lines, I get the impression that this project is starting to lose its enthusiam because of the labour intensity involved. Dont worry, I am about to make life easier further on if you choose to go that way.

You can re-use the stuffings, tease and puff it all up first. Then put it back the way you found it. That webb across the lower back and the arm is probably continued right across the back, they probably just tacked it to the outer frame for convenience. Sometimes you just cant get a tack hammer in tight nooks and crannies. Leave it alone if its not hurting anything.

Ok, now thats the original old school way of doing it. That way I know it is a lot of work but it will be still classed as original and it will maintain its value. Now for some sneaky shortcuts. Now be aware that although some upholsterers use this way it will be no longer classed as an original and will lose considerable value as far as antiques go.

Forget about all the springs.
Forget all about the stuffings.
Forget all the padding to be stitched.
You like the sound of this dont you !!!!!!!

Apply the webbs as I have mentioned previously but this time staple them on the top seat rail instead of at the base of the chair.
Get yourself a hunk of say 2'' - 3'' GREY foam (the thickness depends on the finished height you want the seat. ) Staple a layer of hessian over the webbings and then once you have cut the foam to the correct size, glue the foam onto the hessian.

To get the correct foam size , measure between the side seating rails and the same front to back allow for overhang. If you have done it right, the foam should go at least all the way from under the lower arm rails on both sides and the same front to rear. You will have to look at the original finished height because this will determine the height of the new foam block. It usually is 2 - 3'' max.

As per you question about using a bandsaw for cutting foam, Yes you can but use as fine a tooth blade as possible. If you use too vicious a blade it can chew the foam up and drag it down the clearance hole around where the blade comes out of the bench. In any case, fill that hole up before you start cutting any foam. The bandsaw is good for cutting foams thicker than 1''. Anything thinner, just use a pair of scissors or SHMBO trusty electric knife. Dont tell her though, she may get upset. If you wanted a bandsaw dedicated to just cut foam, one of the small el cheapo ones at Bunnings for about $80 is fine. When you are cutting foam there is nowhere near the workload on the machine like their is cutting wood. I use one myself and its been going for the past 20 odd years.

Now if you want a nice curved finish on your seat, if the seat is say 50mm x 50mm , cut a piece of 1 '' foam 25mm x 25mm and glue that on the hessian before the top layer of foam. Cut the top edges off the smaller block to get rid of the square look which may show through to the top foam. Now if you have to put a seat cushion on the chair, dont go for the curved seat look because you will have a gap where the front of the seat cushion sits on the chair. Just glue the hunk of foam straight on and then start putting the cover on.
Neil.

Sorry, that seat foam measurement just above should have read 50cm x 50cm.
Neil.

Neil: now you're starting to talk my language!

Certainly I don't think resale value is an issue here.

Does the diagram represent what you were describing?

A youtube video I saw mentioned that a layer of cotton is required between the fabric and the foam, otherwise the foam is abraded. Is that right?

How big should the overhang be? Should I use the same method for the back as the seat, and ditch the springs etc.

Echnidna: thanks for the tip on supercheap auto staplers. Do they have a long neck for reaching into tight corners?

The pic of the foam seating is spot on. Just make sure you have the right height foam and if it is too hard to go under the seat rails, taper it so that it can do so , so that youre not "crushing " the foam to get it under the rails. Taper the edges from top to bottom of the first foam so that the edges dont show up as square through the top foam. Dont forget that after the foam goes under, you still have to get the top fabric cover under as well.

As for an earlier question, about the vinyl being put over the tapestry ect. That would have been done by a backyarder who knew nothing as to what they were doing. Dont put the vinyl back on, its not meant to be there at all.

An inch all around is a good foam overhang. It just makes it easier to fasten it down on to the rails if you dont have to stretch and pull it.

With the issue of the cotton layer over the foam, dont worry about that , you only need to do that if youre using a velvet fabric. It is to protect the underside of the velvet pile from wearing abrasively on the foam. Most manufacturers dont even bother these days anyway. Its not a real issue with other types of faric.
Neil.

Same method applies to the back. Just use a lighter grade foam. Ask your supplier to show you the different grades . White is mostly used for back cushioning ect.
Neil.

Originally Posted by neilb

Dont put the vinyl back on, its not meant to be there at all.

Neil.

You want me to cover the whole chair in tapestry? Problem is I don't have enough of it, and the vinyl is integrated into the design of the other chairs in the suite. Or am I misunderstanding you?

Another question is regarding the webbing base for the seat foam. The side frames and the front-back frames are at different heights. Can this be worked around, or should I add extra frame members to make a nice frame in a single plane?

With the vinyl question - I thought there was vinyl put over the tapestry previously. If there is an underlying reason , like maybe the tapestry is torn / stained or whatever, then put the vinyl back on to match the rest of the suite.

With the different heights of the rails, you may have to put in another pair of rails front to back to match the plane of the front and rear rails. Allow yourself room to be able to get under the bottom arm rails with the foam and fabric. You can even arttach these 2 rails to the outer sides of the base frame if you want to , its easier to do that . Make sure you put in 45 degree corner blocks in the corners to give all your rails with webbing attached extra holding strength. Its also a good idea to put blocks say 50mm x 50mm in all frame corners to strengthen the chair. Nail and Glue them all.

Hope all this is making sense.
Neil.

Pics 1 & 2 show the rest of the suite, and how the tapestry and vinyl are part of the design.

Pics 3 & 4 show how the side rails, and the front and back rails for the seat frame are at different heights. Will have to figure out some way to make a frame all in the same plane for the foam.


I think I've reached the limit of unstapling this thing. If I go much further I'm not confident I'll ever put it together again. So I decided to make a start on repairing and beefing up the arms. I replaced the plywood, nailing it down onto the curved arm, and will strengthen it by gluing bracing to it underneath (pics 5,6,7).

In the process of hammering the nails, a top arm frame split where it is nailed to an upright (pic 8). A little glue shoved in with a matchstick repaired this (pic 9). For good measure, I added some extra bracing by gluing a piece to the upright to support the arm joint from underneath (pic 10).

With the split arm rail, put in either a good sized corner block say 75mm x 75mm x width of rail under the arm rail or a vertical rail say around 50mm thick screwed to the back post from under the arm to the chair base. This will strengthen it very well. Even though you may have done a good repair to the split, that area will be under a lot of stress when someone sits on the arm. That is all that supports the whole of the rear arm section.
Neil.

With putting in the extra rails for the seat webbing, you can put in a rail across the very back of the chair between the 2 vertical posts at the required height of the webbing. The same for the side rails. Corner blocks as well to stop the webbing from eventually pulling them forward or even out completly.

Hi Zenwood
Like you, I also am an amateur upholsterer. I am now onto my third or fourth project and have already stripped down, re-webbed, re-sprung and the rest of it, an antique three piece lounge and am in the throes of doing another. You ask is it worth it? If you go into it thoroughly you will find (as you already are finding with the removal of staples and tacks) that it is hard work. However, upholstering is a process and each stage of the process has a set and proper method which is not at all difficult to learn. I thoroughly researched the subject to begin with and have the names of a number of books that have immeasureably helped me and which are a constant reference source. If you would like the titles of these books I am happy to send them to you. There is also a website http://www.upholster.com/ that I have found to be extremely helpful. I have also sourced a good number of suppliers, don't forget garden suppliers re coconut fibre, where you might find it cheaper. I get a great sense of achievement from taking an old beat up piece of (quality) furniture and tending it until it is restored to its former glory imprinted with my own preferences and skill. I hope this is of some help and that perhaps I may have encouraged you to take this project on.