Thread: Apricot.. advice sought

Phill,

Others will be more useful in their replies but I thought I'd let you know that I had the same quandry 3 years ago (before I knew even partly what I was doing). I milled the thickest branches into strips of about 3-5 mm thick and just put it away for a while to dry. Absolutely not the right way! Ended up with lots of cracks and some banana shaped apricot but I got enough whole, flat bits with interesting grain to make it worth using as inlay and keys on box corners, which was what I was hoping for. Now, over to the guys that know about how to look after it properly...

John

Phil,

throw on some timber sealer on the ends as soon as you can - this prevents/reduces the checking, splits.
If you know what timber you want from them - cut it up now and stack it straight after, leave about 1" gaps between layers of boards, use the same size spacers/stickers between layers and place them directly above the stickers below...

Geese Phil, this was to be quick reply...
take a look at this link mate, it'll give you a really good start on it;
Now where the heck is that link - sometimes ya can't find anything when ya want to!!
Will post when found - very good info

hey there,

havent used many orchard species but i do know, if the tree was pruned when it was younger it may be useless to you. i say that because the point of most fruit trees is to maximise the yield of crop, and this involves heavily pruning hence more bough wood (grows from the pith excentrically rather than wood from the trunk.) probably best to cut the bough into small billets, seal the ends and hope for the best.

Also, dont expect to get large, usable pieces from the tree. be happy to get small pieces, maybe enough for some handles or decorative plugs, butterflies etc, or maybe a special bookmatched panel. these little differences help to personalise your work and add subtle character.

I was given some apricot and it was air dried for about 10 years without the ends sealed .... it cracked but I managed to get some pens out of it. Very nice timber. Do Not burn it .... put seal the ends and put it away for a few years .... if it cracks in that time work around them and make something else .... but hold onto it ..... I was very impressed by the grain.

Stinky.

Japanese potters traditionally use fruit wood for their tools, and you may find some here who have the same tradition. If you find any such, you may be able to make some tools & swap for some nice pottery.

Phill, any Fruit wood that size is too good to burn. Predominately use the beautifully grained wood for turning or laminate it for future inlay as you stated.
Most fruit woods have a close decorative grain that is far too good to waste ..even in some citrus species the grain is without peer.
Olive wood is another fine example of beautifulgrain employed in inlay or for turning with a character hard to match.

In short try not to waste a resource such as your fruit woods you have spent nurturing in your backyard.
Cheers

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I will cut it into 60cm lengths and seal it as advised. If the sealer is to slow the drying process, is it worthwhile wrapping the pieces in gladwrap as well to slow drying through the sides (the bark)?
I imagine that I am supposed to leave the bark on (thin as it is) at this stage.

Phill.

Phill, dont worry about using gladwrap as long as you use a log-end sealer the timber will dry ok and by all means leave the bark on.
Try Cross Electrics in Bunbury for you end sealer...they have small lots for sale.

Cheers

Thanks John. I know the place in Blair St.
Thanks again to all.
Phill.