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Thread: Bottlebrush

  1. #31
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    Like aldav sez, you really have to put a flat on any round object you want to rip on he BS - the risk of it rolling & catching (especially with coarse teeth) is a bit much even for someone as cavalier as myself. I occasionally ignore that sound advice for a small piece that looks straight & not likey to roll, but often as not I end up with a spiral cut that takes more effort to straighten than chopping a quick flat with a hatchet &/or drawknife would've taken. A flat on the down side & some sort of straight line to follow makes all the difference, you should get a face on a short billet like yours that you could clean up with a jack plane in short order.

    I never use a fence with my BS, I can't even remember where I've "stored" it, because I mostly use my BS for rough breaking-down or cutting curves. Occasionally I do use it for re-sawing, but I find it quicker (than finding & setting up the fence) to run a kerf around the top & bottom of the board with a thin-kerf blade & the BS blade will follow that very reliably (unless it happens to be the very last board of something very precious, in which case the blade will invariably wander! ). I'm far happier using hand tools too, but there are some jobs brute force just makes a lot easier....

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by section1 View Post
    Hi Paul always a pleasure to hear from you. No it's not for handsaws but my bandsaw. Anyway, I've spoken to henry bros and Brad suggested I do not use the CT due to the high risk of kinking because of the large log diameter I want to re-saw. Instead to use a bi metal and in case I do kink it, I'll be out of pocket $100 rather than $180 so it'll hurt a little less. Well, I've also made a new discovery as I've taken off the bearing and found a deep gouge or groove in the lower bearing. This probably is the cause I don't know until I swap it over. Luckily bearings only cost $6 so I'll be buying some spares I think.
    Definitely the bi-metal for logs and rough sawing, the CT only gets used on dried, dimensioned timber. I guess it's the bearing behind the blade you're talking about, it certainly wouldn't have been helping.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    Definitely the bi-metal for logs and rough sawing, the CT only gets used on dried, dimensioned timber. I guess it's the bearing behind the blade you're talking about, it certainly wouldn't have been helping.
    Yes, behind the blade, but I’m replacing them all and I’m so grateful they’re not expensive. I’ll be making a fence as well.

    Here’s something to ponder over. The other logs are minimum 400mm in diameter. My bandsaws throat opening can accept only 300mm dia. So, all this fussing about I’ve been doing is only to re-saw a smaller log or rip a larger diameter into a smaller one to accommodate the saw. This is where I find machinery limiting. They can cut fast, but that’s about all they can do. With a frame saw that I plan on making it’ll cut slower, but I’m not limited. This is one reason I choose to work with hand tools over power tools, it frees me rather than constrains me. Having said that, if you're in business then machinery is a must for survival.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Two HP should sail through one of those little logs. If the blade is twisting, my first thought would be to check the blade guides and backing bearing to make sure they are properly set up. Also check blade tension..

    If all else fails, at least split the billets in half & paint the ends, that'll minmise splitting as it dries.....

    Cheers,
    Ian you were correct all along. It was the bearing that were shot. I re-sawed one 8" (200mm) dia. like through butter. The blade I replaced with the last one I had carbon 3/4" 3 tpi. Like you said it should sail through and it did. However, a new BI metal blade 1" (27mm) 1.3tpi has been ordered as I don't believe I will have the same luck with those large pieces. Friggin bearings.

    Well, out of that one small log I managed to get 4 useable 1 1/4" thick boards. I would rather use the word pieces as they're not very big at all.
    _DSC3515.jpg_DSC3514.jpg_DSC3512.jpg
    I don't think I'll get any use out of the one in the middle. All that's left to do is to sticker them outside somewhere for the next year and a half. It'll be almost 2 years before I can use them. I'm glad it's done though and I've learned heaps. Thanks to everyone who contributed towards this successful outcome.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by section1 View Post
    ......The other logs are minimum 400mm in diameter. My bandsaws throat opening can accept only 300mm dia. So, all this fussing about I’ve been doing is only to re-saw a smaller log or rip a larger diameter into a smaller one to accommodate the saw.....
    This is where some sort of sled can be a big help. If you take a slab off two opposite sides, it'll likely fit under your 300mm saw....

    However, I do agree that becoming dependent on machines can be limiting. I've often limbered up & re-sawn boards by hand that were too wide for my (also 300mm) saw. You'll often see advice to cut wide boards down the middle so they'll fit your machine, then glue them back together after sawing them. Sorta defeats the purpose, imo...

    Cheers,
    IW

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