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Thread: Cape Lilac (White Cedar?)
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11th October 2009, 02:48 PM #31
Also I would paint the endgrains with tung oil or some thing similar to stop splitting and checking, This is standard practice for most bush green mills. there are many ways of doing it but it just stops the moisture being so quickly evaporated off from the end grain sections which cause it to shrink at different rates to the middle of the boards.
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11th October 2009, 02:57 PM #32
Would Plastic Paint (standard from bunnings) be a good product to use for painting the end grain instead of the tung oil?
"If you can't kill a zombie with it, it ain't a weapon."
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11th October 2009, 03:50 PM #33.
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Oils and special end sealing waxes are better but I find they tend to pick up grit more than house paint which dries much quicker. Another way to is to oil or wax and then when you need to mill or resaw, just dock the oiled/waxed ends off teh log. I tend to used whatever plastic house paint I have that I no longer need. I usually used 2 or 3 coats if I have the time.
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12th October 2009, 03:58 PM #34
Do you paint the logs after they have been felled or do you like to do each board individual (or slab), to me that seems like a waste of time.
I would have thought that using plastic paint would far out shine any of the oils/waxes used? For better protection anyway. Or does the oils/waxes allow the end of the boards to breathe and the boards to dry at a more even pace?
Thanks,
Harlan"If you can't kill a zombie with it, it ain't a weapon."
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12th October 2009, 04:32 PM #35.
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Fall tree, paint cut ends immediately. Then when milling boards, if any ends are docked, paint immediately
I would have thought that using plastic paint would far out shine any of the oils/waxes used? For better protection anyway. Or does the oils/waxes allow the end of the boards to breathe and the boards to dry at a more even pace?
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