Thread: Cape Lilac (White Cedar?)

Originally Posted by Wooden Mechanic

Has anyone milled Cape Lilac before?

I may have an opportunity to get a log slabbed or milled in the near future so would like to see if it is worth it. Any comments appreciated.

Thanks,
Harlan

Beautiful timber - check this lot out.

Good, when the time comes, you will probably be milling it!
Does the Lucas Slab Mike? Might get BobL (?) to slab it?

What are the characteristics of the timber once milled (green) and when dry?

Any more news on the turner?

I don't know why it's called Cape Lilac. I've heard it referred to as False Lilac.

Very nice timber but needs to be carefully dried as I have had some split on me.

I will probably Air dry. Any problems with this?

How simple is a kiln to build? Something small...

I have about 12 boards in the ceiling of my shed, happily drying away. Tis a beautiful timber if you bring out the grain.

Now that is stunning! The finish is great, epoxy? Or high gloss lacquer? Definitely salvaging the logs from the tree now!

Slabbing or boards? I would like to get timber that I can use for smaller pieces. So probably boards and a few slabs.....

Originally Posted by Wooden Mechanic

Good, when the time comes, you will probably be milling it!
Does the Lucas Slab Mike? Might get BobL (?) to slab it?

I don't have the slabbing attachment but to be honest you would want it to be a pretty good tree to slab it, many of the cape lilacs around Perth will have some termite or other damage and won't be worth slabbing. Bob may have slabbed some so he may be able to comment on this. Slabbing also takes a lot longer and the hourly rate is generally higer so you want to make sure the log is worth it before you shell out twice as much for slabs that need to be cut down into boards anyway.

Originally Posted by Wooden Mechanic

What are the characteristics of the timber once milled (green) and when dry?

Not to sure but likely to dry out quicker than the hardwoods so you would want to make sure it is protected over summer so it does not dry to fast and split.

Originally Posted by Wooden Mechanic

Any more news on the turner?

Busy holidays, next week sports carnivals, end of next week I should get a chance to look at it, will contact you first.

Originally Posted by Burnsy

I don't have the slabbing attachment but to be honest you would want it to be a pretty good tree to slab it, many of the cape lilacs around Perth will have some termite or other damage and won't be worth slabbing. Bob may have slabbed some so he may be able to comment on this.

I haven't slabbed it but I have freehand ripped some with a CS and then band sawn it into small boards.

Slabbing also takes a lot longer and the hourly rate is generally higer so you want to make sure the log is worth it before you shell out twice as much for slabs that need to be cut down into boards anyway.

This stuff is as soft as butter so it won't take much time to slab but the majority of time consumed in slabbing is not in the cutting of the slabs - it's everything else that goes with it. As it turns out there is a reasonably big CL in the yard but it is fairly termite ridden - might have a go at it this weekend. Many of the street trees in our street were CL but they kept falling down because they were so rotten.

My plan is to split the log down the middle to see how bad the termites are and then take it from there.

Not to sure but likely to dry out quicker than the hardwoods so you would want to make sure it is protected over summer so it does not dry to fast and split

It seems to air dry reasonably well.

How big is your log Wooden Mech?
I'f the tree is worth slabbing I'm happy to work in combo with Mike - get him to mill down to slabbing size, rip a few slabs off and then mill some more.

I don't have the slabbing attachment but to be honest you would want it to be a pretty good tree to slab it, many of the cape lilacs around Perth will have some termite or other damage and won't be worth slabbing. Bob may have slabbed some so he may be able to comment on this. Slabbing also takes a lot longer and the hourly rate is generally higer so you want to make sure the log is worth it before you shell out twice as much for slabs that need to be cut down into boards anyway.

This stuff is as soft as butter so it won't take much time to slab but the majority of time consumed in slabbing is not in the cutting of the slabs - it's everything else that goes with it.

I see. The tree has a very healthy appearance on the outside, but could be hiding termites, though there is not any termite damage around the property and they have some fairly good unprotected jarrah in the shed frame.Mike, you are right, most of it will go into boards, although I would like a few pieces to be slabbed. I enjoy slab furniture so it would be nice to get some out of the tree. Bob, I knew was pretty soft, guess thats a bonus for milling it, not to hard on your blades.

Not to sure but likely to dry out quicker than the hardwoods so you would want to make sure it is protected over summer so it does not dry to fast and split.

It seems to air dry reasonably well.

Thats good news to hear. I will likely have the wood drying next to the shed in the new house, covered by a tarp. Like a gable roof over the timber, just to protect it but also let air through. Would clamping the timber be an option, having it sandwiched between some ply wood and then clamped to keep it straight, or is that likely to create case hardened timber?

How big is your log Wooden Mech?
I'f the tree is worth slabbing I'm happy to work in combo with Mike - get him to mill down to slabbing size, rip a few slabs off and then mill some more.

The tree is a fairly big one, being able to say it is ~26 years or older. It stands around 2.5 - 3.5m tall with a fork (crotch piece) at the peak having two branches coming off of that. The log itself in circumference should be around ~1m -1.5m.
I will be going to the property today to see my girlfriend who is sick (bless her) so will take some measurements and some photos and post later tonight.

Thanks,
Harlan.

P.S There is also a mulberry tree that I may be getting as well (they are doing some big reno's in the future). Will take some photos of that also.

Mulberry - nice.

Are the trees in South Perth? You need to be very specific to the loppers or earthmovers who take it out. Long lengths to them means about 900mm. Meet with them on site and show them where you want it cut (low to the ground as possible and then above the crutch) we can dock it on site to get rid of excess or crap but you can't join them back together. Also leave the longest sections above the crutch, we milled all the 300mm diameter and larger upper branches at Rod's on top of the main log once it was opened up.

Suppose I better get this Turner sorted so you have some money to pay for milling

Cheers,
Mike

Mulberry - nice. Are the trees in South Perth?

Is on this property. Only a small one, but still has two or three limbs that would be nice cut up, if only for a small return.

You need to be very specific to the loppers or earthmovers who take it out. Long lengths to them means about 900mm. Meet with them on site and show them where you want it cut (low to the ground as possible and then above the crutch) we can dock it on site to get rid of excess or crap but you can't join them back together. Also leave the longest sections above the crutch, we milled all the 300mm diameter and larger upper branches at Rod's on top of the main log once it was opened up.

Yes. I may have the opportunity to cut it down myself with some help from some friends, if that is a better option. There is absolutely nothing around the tree so not much to get damaged. I honestly hate having a job done wrong when you have asked it to be done a certain way so if I did get it cut down by pro's I would be present for sure.

The tree stands ~ 3.2m - 3.6m tall. The main trunk (below the crotch) is around 1.5m tall and ~2.4m circumference at the thickest point (sort of an oval shape ) with the fork and other branches extending the other ~1.6m.

The fork itself is a three way bonanza having three branches converge to one point. Two of which are joined with the other coming from a different side. Could be some interesting grain patterns. There are also a few small splits along the tree, no more than 100mm deep but very apparent.

What do you think, worth milling? Depends on condition of timber on the inside

Suppose I better get this Turner sorted so you have some money to pay for milling

Haha, I will be able to afford it, who do you think I am a poor teenager?

Thanks,
Harlan

P.S. Haven't taken pictures of Mulberry because camera ran out of batteries. Next time. Promise.

FIXED

Harian, WE cannot see the pics. It appears ytou are trying to link your pics to a secure online email service and they won't show up for anyone else except maybe you. You will be better off loading them up onto the forum or providing a no-login web site link like photobucket.

Even if that tree is solid in the middle I don't think you will get full width slabs at its widest point out of it that will survive the drying process. The leaf and twig litter buildup in the branch union has probably created a weak line in the middle which will crack when drying.

Any milling decisions would need to await felling to see what the middle is like.

My bad, fixing now..... Done. Sorry.

Originally Posted by BobL

FIXED


Even if that tree is solid in the middle I don't think you will get full width slabs at its widest point out of it that will survive the drying process. The leaf and twig litter buildup in the branch union has probably created a weak line in the middle which will crack when drying.

Any milling decisions would need to await felling to see what the middle is like.

Hmmmm, so your saying the tree will be weak when drying around the fork because of the structure attached, or the leaf buildup? What leaf buildup are you referring to? Sorry

Just waiting for the go ahead to cut it down and will get right into it. Will probably go boards with this one anyway. Just want to get the most out of the tree.

Thanks Bob,
Harlan