Thread: Classic truck timber tray; need help please

If the tray is going to be 'display only', I'd seal it with marine epoxy and varnish (epoxy on every individual piece, all sides, then varnish over the exposed faces for uv protection). If you are going to be using it, then oil is the most maintainable finish.

Butting it tightly all together gives you something that is going to hold water against the timber (not a good idea), plus the lovely option of either the wood shrinking and having gaps appear, or the wood expanding and giving you a nicely corrugated tray. Personally, I'd put them in at a 2-3mm gap (possibly more, I'm not sure what the %expansion of your timber is) - fill the gaps with polyurethane sealant if you want it seamless.

Hey Lewy,

Generally you can have up to 1% expansion in timber width due to moisture so to be on the safe side you want at least 1mm between each 90mm wide plank, but I concur with master Splinter and would also look at leaving 2-3mm with some black Sikaflex polyurethane forced into the joints to weatherproof. On wooden decked ships it was common practice to leave up to 1/4" gap betwen 4" planks which we then caulked with old rope fibres and a sikaflex "cap". This would cope with not only the horrendous humidity changes that happen throughout the day at sea, but also the movement of the planks due to the vessel twisting. Looked good, too.

As for the finish I would use good old boiled linseed oil. Thin down the first couple of coats with turps and then slap a few more coats on neat. I'm not a fan of varnishes and I hardly ever use them myself.

Lewy,
I saw a Matedor truck several months ago, I think it had a steel back, the Matadoor has a lot of VW parts. If you want it to look "as was" this may want checking out.
Rowley.

The little truck will be used every now and then so i think i will go for oil, i dont mind the reapplying it when needed. Varnish looks gr8 for show but hope to use it a bit more often than just shows.
I was hoping not to have any gaps so any thoughts on butt joining the 20 planks together with glue and biscuits or a full spline of maybe ply? Water can excape under rebated sides that encases the kapur if it happens to get wet.
How stable is kapur, will this eventually buckle/ go wavey if left to float with only sides rebated to hold down allowing for expansion. Sides will be 50x70mm merbau surrounding the tray.
I will go sika if needed but was hoping not too.
Rowley i'd love to know about the truck you saw, my tray will be simular to the one that came off it. Some had a ute style with low floor, mudguards and sides and others had a flat tray like the big trucks had. Mine had the flat tray.
Thanks for all the advice so far, this is a great forum.
cheers Lewy

Lewy,
The Matador I saw had the ute style back. I live in Northern NSW and there were a few of them about here 40 or so years ago. We have a fellow living here who is a registered hot rod builder and restorer of all types of cars and trucks. The Matador was in the back of his shed. If you want more details put your Email on the forum and I will get back to you.
Cheers,
Rowley.

Hi Rowley,
I would love to know more about the trucks you have mentioned, it is allways good to be in contact with fellow restorers and other truck owners of this kind.
Your help is much appreciated.
Cheers
Lewy

Have a couple of pictures of the truck and its tray, this might help discribe what i'm trying to acheive.
Cheers,
Lewy

Watch spacing of the bearers and position re chassis shape wheelarch etc. no gap in flooring is ok difference of opinion and what look your after in laying them. Some start from centre others from one side. Dont forget the combing rail if it allows along the inner edge.

Oil finish with a full coat before laying them, pitch were bearers meet floor to seal against moisture and rot.