Cypress vs T2 house framing

**ownerbuilder** · 23rd May 2010, 10:21 PM

Hi, seeking your advice on the pros and cons of using cypress pine compared to treated pine for framing a house. Heard that cypress resists termites but that it can shrink/warp and cause internal walls to warp.

An earlier thread mentions that green cypress is better to work with, but does this cause problems with shrinkage and warping later? How long does it take to dry out and harden? Also, how much extra wood should be ordered to take into account loss due to cypress splitting - 12%-15% extra?

Am leaning towards cypress pine to avoid contact with chemicals in T2, but it all depends on how well the cypress frame will stand up to the aesthetics of the house (eg plasterwork and straightness of walls) in the longer term.

**artme** · 24th May 2010, 09:33 AM

It might be worthwhile getting into the Renovate Forums and asking there, as well as here.

FWIW I like the idea of cypress framing for the same easons as yourself. I have used cypress when it is quite dry. Using a compressed air nail gun worked well as it didn't split the wood. In other places I screwed it _ but that is not something to do on a big job!

**ownerbuilder** · 24th May 2010, 08:33 PM

Thanks for letting me know of how you've found working with cypress, Artme. I might post the question in the Renovation section as you suggested.

**Gaza** · 24th May 2010, 10:39 PM

i would not use green cypress as it would move a lot during construction and require a lot of adjustement prior to sheeting.

T2 is treated with salt and you can eat the stuff, or you could use light steel framing.

**ownerbuilder** · 25th May 2010, 09:00 PM

Thanks for your comments, Gaza. I also checked out the Renovators Forum and found more info on timber framing. By the sounds of it, cypress is a timber that people either love or hate.

**damian** · 26th May 2010, 03:54 PM

Cypress, get it green, use flat ended nails, cover it up quick. Shrinks and grows less than radiata, is much stronger (and denser), nail plates don't loosen over time, not only is it nearly as bug resistant as iron bark it's also very weather/rot etc resistant.

Leave a frame out in the weather it'll buckle. Nail it dry or use pointy nails and it splits. Heavier and more work than radiata, but less than eucalypt. You'll find different framers prefer different timbers. Get some that specialise in cypress and it'll all go fine.

**ownerbuilder** · 26th May 2010, 08:22 PM

Hi Damian - I will follow your advice. Am getting a quote from a builder who works with cypress to do the framing + will ask how he works with cypress to make sure he uses green wood and gets it all enclosed ASAP once the frame goes up.

**weisyboy** · 31st May 2010, 08:55 PM

use hardwood mate

**Vernonv** · 1st June 2010, 01:27 PM

Originally Posted by damian

... not only is it nearly as bug resistant as iron bark

That must be some pretty dodgy cypress.

I have seen termites travel over cypress (and not eat it) to get to red iron bark. I don't think I have ever seen a single bit of cypress that has been attacked by termites (and I've used a lot of it), but have seen plenty of iron bark.

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