Thread: filling small and large cracks in silky oak

It will depend on the size of the crack and what you are prepared to live with. I used epoxy to fill small cracks and to ensure knots never moved.

i will post a few photos later when my camera has finnished charging.

I use epoxy and mix it with kids black powder from craft shop. Cracks come up well as a nice feature. I have seen this used extensively in some galleries on large jarrah tables in SW of WA

Most adhesive epoxy is yellow so looks better if you add colour. Coffee works well. There is also a clear version of araldite. But the quantities are small of course. Might be better to go for casting resin.

All good advice above but be careful as I have had epoxy leave an unwanted stain.

Mask edges and do all filling well before finishing. That way you minimize the risk
of spreading the material over the timber and leaving a stain.

Use something like "Diggers Casting Resin".

if the Adhesive Polyurethane Sikabond 125g M/purpose Techgrip 418051 is clear would it be worth getting that or trying to get a smaller amount of the Diggers Casting Resin? as i am doing this for a mate and i am trying to keep costs low? pictured below are images of the cracks in the timber. Cheers WC

The Sika product you've referenced is brown and foams on contact with moisture. It finishes as a honey/beige colour but is not really the product to use.

Diggers casting resin is under $20 (including catalyst I think, but you have to ask at the paint counter).

Use Diggers Clear Casting Resin. Make sure you seal the back side as it will flow through the smallest of cracks. You may need multiple pours too, the first to seal the crack/hole, a second to level it and fill any shrinkage. On the second pour, try to over-pour it forming a pond of resin, it will sand back easily when completely set. It make look opaque when sanded but becomes clear again once the lacquer is applied. Sand to at least 400.

Neil
Despite Jarrah being the envy of every turner, the burl and timber may, on occasions have flaws, errrr I mean features.

I use Plasti- Bond mixed with a small (match head sized) amount of black Diggers Oxide. A jar has lasted me 5 years so far!!!! Or pick a colour which either blends or contrasts with your Silky Oak.

I mix the bulk of Part A with the black oxide and when consistent, add sufficient catalyst depending on how quick you want it to go off. I use an old kitchen knife to force it into the cracks.

This gives a very realsitic black gum vein look which looks natural. I have seen others add sawdust, but I don't like the look of that. The excess dried plasticbond is very hard on tools, only use abrasives to remove material. No staining, no shrinkage and polishes up well

I have also used diggers embedding resin, but prefer the Plastibond. I have also heard of car bog being used in similar fashion, but yet to try it.
Sincerely
Willy
Jarrahland

next time i head out to bunnings i will get a thing on the "Diggers 500g Cast And Embedding Resin" and use that to fill my cracks.Cheers WC

Originally Posted by Wood Collector

next time i head out to bunnings i will get a thing on the "Diggers 500g Cast And Embedding Resin" and use that to fill my cracks.Cheers WC

You've got to ask for the catalyst at the paint counter. The resin is no use without it.

Trav

Also shake the can to ensure it is still liquid, thick but liquid, old cans start to gel and go off.

okay thanks for reminding me to get the catalyst. should i shake the can before i buy it or after? heers WC