Thread: Glueing-up Lignum Vitae

I haven't glued up much LV, but of the few pieces I have I've discovered that you need to wipe down the surfaces with a solvent immediately before gluing. Otherwise the glue doesn't bind properly.

I use acetone for oily woods, but any solvent that doesn't leave traces behind should do. eg. a good metho.

I've used both PVA and 2 part epoxies, depending on the purpose of the piece, and both types of glue have held up well.

For a plane, I believe a good epoxy would be the better way to go.

Mike, Lignum does have a reputation for being difficult to glue, and Skew's recommendation for uing a solvent prior to joining is the standard one. If you can, it would be wise to do a test on some scraps or offcuts, & try to bust the joint after the glue has thoroughly cured. I second his advice to use epoxy (regular, NOT 5-minute!), but would advise against any of the PVA glues - you definitely want a non-creep glue for this job. A long time ago, I built a couple of laminated planes using PVA, against advice to the contrary, & they proved the advice was sound by obligingly self-destructing over the next few years. I was very proud of the add-on Lignum sole on the smoother, & it was the first bit to pop off. I decided that the anti-PVA advice I'd been given was good....

I guess that first experience put me off laminated planes, all my attempts at plane-making since have been solid-bodied, or metal infill, or 'hybrids' (metal sides riveted to the body). I recently made a small solid-bodied Ironwood smoother:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/s...-woody-141810/

I have made a few other solid-bodied planes over the years, using much less difficult woods, and they have all been more or less successful. One of my reasons for going away from the popular laminating style was that I didn't like the cross-bar method for retaining the wedge. Not only is it an extra obstruction for shavings, it's not an ideal mechanical solution, bearing on the wedge at one point only. But digging out small openings & getting traditional wedge slots right in tough woods like Ironwood or Lignum is not for the faint-hearted. I had a bit of experince up my sleeve, & took my time & got there in the end - sharp tools, files, patience, & a few expletives were essential.

However, there is a good solution to the problem - using the brass 'keeper' cams like on the HNT Gordon planes. (I finally realised when making my plane why Terry chose that method - he uses Ironwood a lot, too! ). The cams are about as esy as using a pin, but they apply pressure on two separate parts of the wedge, and create far less obstruction than a pin. You can dig out a square-sided blade & shavings hole - much easier to get clean & square than the 'traditional' wedge retainer, & add the cams at the end.

Anyway, good luck. It's all good fun, & I am firmly of the opinion that even a failed build is a worthwhile exercise - you learn more from mistakes.

Cheers,