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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2

    Default Help with new carport door

    Hi,

    This is my first post but have used this site a lot in the last year or so.

    My question is - has anyone got any suggestions on how best to install a timber roller door frame (fully enclosed) on an existing gabled timber carport? Ill be putting blueboard (or somethjng similar) as it will eventually be rendered over when the front of the house is finished.

    The carport (which I am building at the moment) attaches to the house fascia on one side and 90mm posts at the other. Approx 3.5m width. Ive used a 240x45 TP beam across the front opening rather than the 190x45 im using around the rest of the structure to allow for the extra weight of a sectional lift door. My main issue is with the concrete driveway and how to frame it to avoid rotting the wood as the other sides of the carport will still be exposed.

    Would i be able to frame this in a conventional way (with untreated pine) or will this rot and cause problems over time due to exposure and direct attachment to concrete driveway? If that is ok then is it sufficient to just have a layer of that builders plastic (can't remember the name) underneath the frame?

    My second thought was to add some additional TP posts on stirrups to support the beam and provide the frame around which the roller door can be attached - although this is no doubt the more expensive option as I would need another 3 posts + 3 metal stirrups. Then just attach a few 90x45 TP noggins between the posts to support the blue board. For all I know this could be absolutely ridiculous.

    So if anyone has any suggestions, advice or cheaper options please let me know.

    Any help here would be appreciated.

    Cheers

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    brisbane, australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    87

    Default

    hi handy chemist, it would be really useful if you were able to take some photos of the actual site. this would go a long way to helping us understand the nature of what you're dealing with. The use of specifically treated timbers for specific applications would be the way to go in any event. You talk about using pine on ground (or rather on slab)....and that the carport will in any event be exposed to the weather. (take some photos here so we can see what sort of real weather exposure you are going to have). without seeing photos - I would recommend that you create a detail to avoid putting timber on the ground...even if you go down the track of putting "damp proof course - or DPC" down directly over the slab - water will always have its inherent way of getting into the timber and working its evil. H3 treated timber would be the minimum I would use in an exposed or weather exposed situation. Perhaps trying a detail that allows you wall to sit up off the ground...with say galvanised post stirrups??....these could be used to support your side wall bottom rail at typical centers by not only taking the load but also removing the problem of having the wall sit in water....this construction detail allows for a reasonable gap along the bottom edge...you likely end up having a gap of around 100mm or so....and a way for vermin to enter the carport....but at least if you can live with that ......you at least don't end up with a rotting wall.......anyway.....those are some quick thoughts....but please send a photo.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks szczepan4069

    I've attached the only pic i currently have of the carport (still under construction). As you can see the carport entrance is at the other end of the pic (where the car is! :P). I'm thinking of just using a few extra posts on stirrups, like the other posts in the picture, a piece of timber running the up the length of the brick wall and then putting some timber between them to brace the blueboard that will go on. Can anyone see any issues with this? either short term or long term?

    Dampcourse - thankyou. My vocabulary had escaped me that day
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    As the roof frame is self supporting the out side walls could just be girts between the posts to take the blueboard then there would be nothing on ground other than the post bases.
    You need to get some wind bracing into that roof frame.

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