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  1. #1
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    Question Help with making a custom timber skirting mould.

    Ive posted this problem of mine on the renovate forum but to fill you in I want to lay timber floating flooring in a new ground floor entry on a concrete slab of a pole framed house. As you might envisage the posts penetrate the slab around its perimeter etc. Also, some of the infill walls in the room are mudbrick. Im considering using a standard straight skirting board for the new gyproc and the older mudbrick expecting some gaps against the mudbrick. My real dilemma however is really that of concealing the floor edge gap around the base of the 250mm diameter posts. <O</O
    The flooring is Sydney Blue Gum so can anyone suggest a suitable matching timber to make some circular mouldings that might do the job without splitting or fracturing when cut into curved shapes
    Understand that some mouldings will have to accommodate a 270 deg circumference so I expect I will likely have to make these up in shorter sections.<O</O
    Im thinking I cant be the first person thats had to do something like this.<O</O
    Cheers for any help.<O</O
    michael<O</O

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by WVB View Post
    My real dilemma however is really that of concealing the floor edge gap around the base of the 250mm diameter posts. <O</O

    What wrong with just cutting and fitting the flooring very neatly to/around the post/s?

  4. #3
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    I've never done it but how about kerfing the straight skirting boards?
    - Wood Borer

  5. #4
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    I assume the posts are not cut to "round" but, rather, are approximately the same rough size and therefore I agree with Rod. You don't mention (here) the dimensions of the posts so each one is, presumably, unique and will require unique skirting - cutting smallish sections, it seems to me, would be easiest.

    soth

  6. #5
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    Again, never done it, but you could probably start with a block, cut curves on a band saw and then use a router to add moulding
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

  7. #6
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    thanks for feedback guys<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
    Cutting the floor neatly around each one has crossed my mind <o></o>
    I'll try that first and if it looks wrong move on to making up some curved skirting sections.<o></o>
    cheers<o></o>

  8. #7
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    Hi Michael

    How about posting a photo so we can see exactly where you are thinking about putting the skirting. Need to get an appreciation of scale, finish, smoothness, etc. My initial reactions are:


    • skirting around a structural pole would look rather twee - part of the appeal of visible pole construction is its simple, rugged strength.
    • skirting is rarely successful on rough textured mudbrick. Need to fill all those gaps along the top and it looks obvious.
    • skirting is normal on gyprock. But it should fit the scale and ethos of your building. Modern 85mm skirting or elaborate Victorian design may not be appropriate.
    • Sydney blue gum matches with Sydney blue gum. But you have the choice of matching or contrasting.

    Remembering that you must allow for expansion/contraction with your floating floor, this is normally allowed for by taking the floating floor under the skirting - which also hides the edge. Could you cut a slot into the posts and terminate the floating floor inside that slot?

    Cheers

    Graeme

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi Michael

    How about posting a photo so we can see exactly where you are thinking about putting the skirting. Need to get an appreciation of scale, finish, smoothness, etc. My initial reactions are:


    • skirting around a structural pole would look rather twee - part of the appeal of visible pole construction is its simple, rugged strength.
    • skirting is rarely successful on rough textured mudbrick. Need to fill all those gaps along the top and it looks obvious.
    • skirting is normal on gyprock. But it should fit the scale and ethos of your building. Modern 85mm skirting or elaborate Victorian design may not be appropriate.
    • Sydney blue gum matches with Sydney blue gum. But you have the choice of matching or contrasting.
    Remembering that you must allow for expansion/contraction with your floating floor, this is normally allowed for by taking the floating floor under the skirting - which also hides the edge. Could you cut a slot into the posts and terminate the floating floor inside that slot?

    Cheers

    Graeme
    thanks graeme i'll post a picture or two this w/e.
    i agree that skirting around posts is a bit odd but to create a continuation of the straight skirting along each wall is why i'm thinking this.
    slotting the post is curious idea though.
    cheers
    Michael

  10. #9
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    Have you thought about using a solid block with the post scribed into it, like a capitol except at floor level
    regards inter

  11. #10
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    Looking ahead a bit... are you going to have the same problem with the cornice?

    If so, I'd avoid the whole issue of fitted skirtings altogether and look at making up a partial octagonal or similar box of the same height as the skirting boards instead. Then you could lay boards flat on top, with suitable cutouts to wrap around the pole. (Sorta like an octagonal bench in miniature scale.)

    You could use the same approach with the cornice, giving "matching capitals" at the top and bottom of the posts.

    The advantage of this is that if you make any of the cutouts wrong, it can possibly be used elsewhere and you're running the minimum risk of "wasting" timber.

    Just a thought...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  12. #11
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    [quote=WVB;908910]
    i agree that skirting around posts is a bit odd ................
    slotting the post is curious idea though. /quote]


    Sorry WVB - I think this is funny. No intent to be rude Mate.

    soth

  13. #12
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    I like the idea of slotting the post. In fact I reckon that a biscuit jointer on a suitable spacer would be the ideal tool to create the top of the slot neatly, then a sharp chisel to clean up what is left at the bottom. I'd think you'd make it about 15mm deep so you can hide the edge and still have room for an expansion gap.

    Cheers
    Michael

  14. #13
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    I think slotting would be the easiest way out on this one. The idea of a collar/capital also has merit but will be harder to do. I guess if the pole is near enough round then the collars can be done on a lathe cut in half and fitted around the pole. A little bit of gap would not look too out of place between collar and pole or could be filled with a contrasting coloured filler.

  15. #14
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    Slotting in could give the cleanest finish.

    But there'd be a fair bit of hand chiselling, as Michael mentioned that some parts would need to go up to 270 around the posts. That means there are 45 corner angles that a machine just won't be able to get into.

    Now, if the walls weren't in the way...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  16. #15
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    some good thoughts people, ta
    cornices have been omitted as they make the ceiling too complicated within the boxed beams and frankly i dont really like cornices anyway. all i have done is polyurethane seal around the small gap between the post and the gyprock on the ceiling which will allow small movement. afterall the house is pole frame and there is movement!!
    i'm not sure sealant around the post base/floor joint will work because i'm bound by leaving a larger expansion gap.

    i have some pics to show you what i'm dealing with.
    i figure something out though if i stick with the old kiss principle.
    cheers
    michael

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