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Thread: Instruments for Logging
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25th March 2009, 11:47 PM #1
Instruments for Logging
Before felling a tree, you must estimate where it will land, to protect other vegetation or structures, as well as yourself and your assistants. These instruments facilitate estimating the landing point.
The first is an ordinary sextant; in this case a low-tech toy. The second mirror arm is secured by masking tape to the body, to indicate an elevation angle of 45 degrees. By sighting the top of the tree, the tree's height is the same as the distance to the tree. Add your own height to estimate the landing point. It may be awkward to identify the top of the subject tree, if there are other trees in the neighbourhood, and some sweeping about may be necessary. For the final reading, hold the sextant gingerly by its handle, to assure that the second mirror is plumb.
The second instrument is made from tools which may be more available than a sextant. The body is a "rafter angle square," which title took me a while to find; it may have other names in other places. A torpedo level is taped to it, and a mechanic's inspection mirror is taped to the whole. The mirror enables sighting the bubble level, while simultaneously (+/-) sighting along the hypotenuse of the triangle to the top of the tree. The open construction here makes it easier to see the top of the tree. Again, add your own height to estimate the landing point.
For both of these, you will have to move around in the direction of fall, before finding the "exact" location of the dropped tree. The natural direction of fall is preferred, generally indicated towards the out-of-plumb condition of the tree trunk. Also, note that tree felling is not a precision science; add a generous cushion, especially if the hinge cut is below the level where you stand to take final readings.
Either of these can be restored to their original functions, by simply removing the tape.
Cheers,
Joe <34,35Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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25th March 2009 11:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th March 2009, 12:00 AM #2
Be aware some trees have never read the rule book and they don't fall as expected.
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26th March 2009, 08:34 AM #3
Another option, although maybe not quite as accurate, is to stand 90 degrees to the estimated direction of fall. Hold a pencil or similar at full arms length and walk backwards (if room allows) while lining up the bottom of the pencil with the bottom of the tree until the pencil corresponds to the height of the tree. Then simply move the pencil to the horizontal with the bottom of the pencil still intersecting with the bottom of the tree.
Hope that sounds how I meant it to.
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26th March 2009, 10:05 PM #4
Trees read their own rule book. You should read it too.
The pencil method works fine, where there's enough room to use it. These instruments work in confined places.
There's no such thing as an all-purpose cure. If the natural direction of fall is awkward or ambiguous, some persuasion is indicated. BTDT.
Any method of estimating the drop can best be used to predict accidents, e.g. a tree too large to be felled safely. In such a situation, some prior aerial work will be needed - engage a professional.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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27th March 2009, 07:50 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Instruments for logging
Other than the instruments, more importantly think of the elements. Wind, canopy weight, terrain. When in doubt, take a bigger scarf cut and DONT run, you are always safer near the the butt watching. After having dropped thousands of trees, Im still here. Also when in doubt, get you felling ticket, not for knowledge but for insurance reasons as well
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27th March 2009, 08:14 PM #6.
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My dad was a tree faller who felled Karri that were as tall as 250 ft. To assess the length he carried with him an axe that was the same length as his arm. Holding his arm outstretched and level and the axe vertically upwards in his hand he would walk to a position where he could align the top of the tree with the top of the axe handle. This would give him an indication of the height but he would always add a serious safety margin especially on slopes, wind, tree bounce, etc
The problem with any of these methods is they won't work at all if you can't see the tree. In many Aussie settings the undergrowth or canopy can be just too dense to see the tree.
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27th March 2009, 09:54 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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A small hand held surveyors inclinometer is the tool for the task, also for measuring slopes for gradient where logging is not allowed. I forget the exact numbers but around 75% of tree falling fatalities happen within 8m of the stump.
regards inter
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27th March 2009, 10:20 PM #8
how exactyl do u cary all this gear when you are felling trees. a decent faller can fall a tree threw a doorway without any of this fancy gear.
a falling kit should include. chainsaw (with 2 bars and chains just incase), half axe, 2 wedges, fuel and oil. thats all thats needed usualy. if the tree had a big lean and there is a power line or teh liek in teh way a hydrolic car jack can do wonders.
and i would never stand at teh stump ou are verry vorable to branch strike it amasing how far they can go. also the but can shoot out and if that happends you dont wanna be anyware near the stump. 2 clear tracks back to 2 trees is safest. the bigger teh better.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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28th March 2009, 12:21 AM #9
Carl, and others, that's what I meant when I wrote "engage a professional." I had the impression that these forums are read by DIY'ers of every stripe, not only those with sterling credentials and experience.
Thank you for your enhancing remarks.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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30th March 2009, 01:30 AM #10Banned
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Hi peoples
Obviously, everyone is an expert on tree fall, and in most cases people learn very quickly what not to do. I have no doubt that any equipment to calculate the fall direction, weight, speed, bounce, twist, and so many other variants, are a good help mainly to prevent certain under-looked details, which can be very costly and very dangerous. With this said, I have tested some of these instruments, and they work quite well, putting the prevention & security in a much better place but, I have also to admit, the total and full control of the fall is fully on the experience of the chainsaw operator, every single place and movement of that chainsaw touches on that trunk, determines what the tree will do, with proven accuracy of just a few inches either side. Now, this is in normal circumstances, counting that the conditions do not change dramatically while in the cutting process, otherwise the situation can get totally unpredictable where all the best calculations by any gadget can become totally obsolete. It is a big difference between cutting trees with a margin of error, and working with no error margin at all, that's when the simple dropping (removing) a mature tree can become near as technical as the built of a bridge. Some of you will know what I'm talking about!
The one way or the other, is something very "special" and at the same time difficult to explain, why the act of falling a mature tree, does become so significant and almost a "need" for some of us...! strange really, huh?
Cheers
RBTCO
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