Thread: E.Maculata's Construction Pack

We run 10 head moulder with 50mm bore heads.
6 head molder with 40mm bore.
and 8 head moulder with 50mm bore.

10 header for T&G.
6 header for Parquetry and 12mm overlay T&G.
8 header for 250x50 and 300x50 KD DAR.

8 wing on the top and bottom. 6wing on the sides.
Spiral sux big time. they are toy heads.
Might be good for small production, but not what we do.
TCT serrated back 55x10mm all the way.

Bloody knots in Grey Iron bark will rip the TCT straight off the knives.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Grafton

Ok guys I need some experianced advice!
1. Whats the best type of glue to use on tallow?
2. What are the machining characteristics of tallow?
3. What problems does tallow pose when applying a finish?

And a repeat of the above questions for stringy bark?(or is it one of those nice easy to work woods?)

Zenwood and I are doing some reading at the moment about glues. There was a glue test in australian wood working where he glued up a range of timbers with assorted glues and then weathered them before seeing if he could break them.

He did use some spotted gum in one of his tests but as I read it the results did not come up with any differences between the glues. They were all stronger than the wood when used with proper glueing technique. He did have one test that was good where he glued two pieces together long grain to long grain and clamped to set then after curing he drove a chisel into the joint. The timber broke away leaving the join intact! Even with aquadhere. I thought the trouble with the tests was that while he proved the glues were all strong he did not break many of his test pieces, so it was hard to discern a difference between them. I did find this on the web http://www.avsyntec.com.au/Adh/case3.htm zenwood says they are only doing their own glues and it is too sales oriented for his liking. They do give you information about what the glue is and how it performed. So you might find information there which is valuable.

Personally one of my recent projects was a work bench which I glued up with Aquadhere. Under planing forces to softwood (radiata) the bench came apart. SO I reglued it with Yellow Glue I think it is called weldbond and it is holding up well so far. And I have done a decent amount of planing with the hardwood we got.

Can't say how the yellow glue goes on hardwood but I got it because I found stuff on the net saying that it is better for hardwoods particularly ones with high oil content.

Stevo

I've found AV Syntec good to call up regarding which of their glues is best for a particular application or species of timber. I'm sure other glue companies would offer a similar service.
Tallow is pretty oily stuff which can react (or not react) with some glues so if you can't get an answer out of the glue companies it might be worth while doing some tests of your own

Originally Posted by Harry72

1. Whats the best type of glue to use on tallow?
2. What are the machining characteristics of tallow?
3. What problems does tallow pose when applying a finish?

And a repeat of the above questions for stringy bark?(or is it one of those nice easy to work woods?)

#1 IMHO ashas been stated by the other Blokes"yellow glue" I've used several with success.

#2 Sanding can be quite frustrating especially with finer grades, clogging, oilyness etc, plane finish if you can is nicer, but is often far easier said than done, somewhat self lubricating, so is often despite its' hardness & density quite kind to the cutters

#3 Does tend to "reject finishes" at times, especially after sanding as quite often power sanding or even spirited hand sanding, will raise the "tallow"(resins & extractives) in the cell structure, I'd ask Neil....nicely(or read his book, which I will get around to one day)

Glock seems to know a fair bit about moulding machines.

A thought crossed my mind while I was thinking about getting a jointer thicknesser. I was tossing up whether or not to get a combo machine when I noticed the carbatec planer moulder, cat CT-236. This machine combined with a jointer seems like a very good way for me to go because most of the stuff I make for sale are picture frames.

Advice about this machine and it's serviceablity compared to a moulding cutter on a router table would be very much appreciated.

Cheers

Stevo

This question's been asked a few times without response so I don't reckon theres many of them around. But from what I see I feel it would be a large improvement over a router table even when fitted with a power feeder.

Originally Posted by Studley 2436

Glock seems to know a fair bit about moulding machines.
Stevo

Only what the machinists want me to know...

For picture frame, I would do it on a spindle moulder with a good size head.
You can pickup HSS planer knive dirt cheap from timber producers who have changed over to TCT or Diamond knives.
A power feeder can be knocked up out of a 1/4 HP washing machine motor driving a rubber faced drive wheel. This keeps the timber hard against the fence.
I feel it is easier to do this than doing it on a jointer or router table.

We do test profile setups on the Spindle with the above setup.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

There is something about knowing enough to keep them off your back *G*

Stevo